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Full text of "The Cruise round the World of the Flying Squadron 1869-1870, under the command of Rear Admiral G.T. Phipps-Hornby. (Compiled by J.B., with the assistance of Henry Cavendish.) [With plates and a map.]"

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THE 


CRUISE ROUND THE WORLD 

♦ OF 

THE FLYING SQUADRON 

1869—1870, 

UNDER THE COMMAND OF 

REAR-ADMIRAL G. T. PHIPPS HORNBY. 



J. D. POTTER, 


ADMIRALTY CHART AGENT, 

3jL, POULTRY, & 11, KING STREET, TOWER HILL. 


MDCCOLXXT. 


LON DON : 

LAKE &l CLENCH, NATIONAL STEAM PRINTING WORKS, 10 & 11, CRANE COURT, 
FLEET STREET, E.C. 





TO 


HER MAJESTY EMMA, 

QUEEN-DOWAGER OF THE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS, 

IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HER KINDNESS TO THE 

FLYING SQUADRON, 

THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED 
BY HER HUMBLE SERVANT, 

J. B. 


To thee, proud daughter of Pacific Island’s Chief, 

And widowed wife of Hawaiia’s King, 

Accept our grateful wishes, though they be but brief. 
Yet heartfelt, for all happiness this world can bring. 


Tor the benefit of those who took part in the first 
British Circumnavigating Expedition since the days 
of Anson, in order to recall a few of its Incidents, 
and also as a Memento in future times of the 
Hospitality shown by the Great Colonies of the 
Southern Ocean to the Squadron from the Mother 
Country, these few Facts, with the assistance of 
Henry Cavendish, have been compiled 

By their Humble Servant, 


J. B. 



FLYING SQUADRON, PLYMOUTH SOUND JUNE, 1869 



CRUISE 


OF 

THE FLYING SQUADRON. 


PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA. 

“Sail at daylight, whether or no!” Such was the 
stern command of one of their Lords Commissioners 
to the Admiral commanding the Flying Squadron, 
on the afternoon of Friday, the 18th June, 1869, the 
squadron having been detained at Plymouth since 
the morning of the 17th, when the first start was 
attempted, owing to an accident occurring to the 
“ Barrosa’s ” engines (she being the ship that had 
taken the place of the “ Cadmus,” that had been 
ashore near Salcombe, and knocked a hole in her 
bows). The squadron, consisting of the frigates 
“ Liverpool ” (flagship of Rear-Admiral Hornby), 
“ Lifley,” “ Endymion,” “Bristol,” and corvettes 
“ Scylla ” and “ Barrosa,” having been organized in 

R 


o 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


compliance with a scheme laid before the House of 
Commons by Mr. Childers in his Budget Speech, 
having for its contemplated object the display of 
the British Flag in a detached squadron in the 
distant parts of the world, in order to facilitate the 
withdrawal of most of our ships on foreign stations, 
under the influence of the present rage for economy; 
to ensure which, the following order was pro- 
mulgated before starting, for the guidance of the 
squadron : — 

“ Squadron Standing Order. No. 2. 

“Liverpool. At Spithead, 
“ 8 June, 1869. 

“ In compliance with Article 5, page 806, of the 
“ ‘ Queen’s Regulations and Admiralty Instruc- 
“ ‘ tions,’ I have to request that especial care be 
“ taken to economize fuel and stores. 

“2. The ships are to be completed with water 
“ before leaving port, and at sea the crews are to 
“ be placed on an allowance of one and a quarter 
“ gallons per man per diem, to be increased to one 
“ and a half gallons when in the tropics, and this 
“ to cover washing water. 

“ 3. The attention of the engineer is to be 


PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA. 


3 


“ directed to the economy of fuel in distilling water, 
“ and the expenditure of coal for cooking is to be 
“ strictly watched ; ashes are to be thoroughly 
“ burnt when steaming, and to ensure it, the stokers 
“ are, when steaming slowly, to get up the ashes. 

“ 4. The oldest suit of sails is always to be worn 
“ in the tropics, and in fine weather. 

“5. Worn rope may be largely used in the same 
“ way ; but before leaving the Trades, good braces, 
“ buntlines, clew garnets, and reef tackles are to 
“ be rove, using the worn rope for stunsail gear, 
“ jib-haulyards, etc. Boats, falls, and yard tackles 
“ are. of course, always to be of the best. 

“ 6. Yarns are to be carefully collected and 
“ packed at once for return. 

“ G. T. Phipps Hornby, 

“Rear-Admiral Commanding. 

“To the Captains, etc.” 

Perhaps a grateful country was not aware that, for the 
large outlay of £329 10s. expended on her ocean 
labourers, an extra ton of water a day might have been 
served out to each ship in the squadron for one year ; 
the gallon and a quarter daily allowance to officers and 
men, including cooking, washing, and drinking, with 


4 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the assistance of the extra ton per day, might have 
sufficed for the ordinary requirements of life and 
cleanliness, which, we venture to think, three tons 
(the allowance) was not able to do. The expendi- 
ture of each person belonging to the squadron of 
7s. 7£d. annually, or, in other words, of a farthing 
a day, would have doubled the allowance ; and 
we strongly recommend volunteers for the future 
Flying Squadrons to practise the one and a quarter 
gallon on shore before it is too late, notwithstanding 
the lowering-looking future impelled that strong sense 
of duty which has always so peculiarly characterized 
the British ocean wanderers. 4 a.m next morning 
the flyers might have been seen opening their eyes 
slowly, and not very willingly, to get their ships under 
weigh, and with a light north-westerly air, for upwards 
of an hour afterwards, slowly, very slowly, making 
their way outside the breakwater, as though the ships 
themselves had a partiality for Devonshire lasses and 
Devonshire cream, as well as those they carried ; and 
at four o’clock in the afternoon, while still hovering 
like vultures round the Eddystone, the Commander-in- 
Chief (Sir William Martin) and a large multitude of 
ladies were seen coming out from the Sound, as though 
anxious to gloat on our misery ; and as he neared the 
squadron in his steam tender (“ Princess Alice ”), he 


PLYMOUTH TO MADEIRA. 


5 


kindly made the signal for opportunity for letters to 
England, piling still greater agony on, and after steaming 
round the squadron under a full head of steam, without 
a sign of communicating. (We believe our Admiral had 
accepted the offer, and purposed sending a despatch.! 
We experienced some little difficulty in seeing how our 
penn’orth of farewell was to arrive at its destination, 
and then the waving of a cloud of pocket handker- 
chiefs, and a choking sob just behind from one 
of Devon’s lads, soon set your mind at rest as to 
their intention, and lialf-an-hour afterwards the 
steamer was out of sight under the land, carrying 
with it her gay and jocular freight; and then, for 
the first time, our hearts began to sink as the last 
link that binds the Briton to his native land was 
severed, and our tempers to rise, as we came to the 
conclusion that in our forlorn condition the west 
country had amused itself with a practical joke at 
our expense. Then, we are happy to say that the 
wind commenced to perform the same manoeuvre, as 
perhaps the sparkling genius of the western counties 
might have invented a repetition before the next 
day, and the breeze coming up from the N.E.. 
carried us safely out of our tormentor’s fair clutches 
and into fine weather, until the anchor went down off 
Funchal, Madeira, on Thursday, 1st July, at 6 p.m., 


6 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


where we found the “Warrior” and “ Black Prince” 
at anchor, waiting for the arrival of the Bermuda 
dock at Porto Santo, where she was to be towed 
by the “Northumberland” and “ Agincourt,” assisted 
by “ Terrible,” the whole under charge of Captain 
May, of the “ Northumberland,” the second part of 
the voyage to be conducted by Captain Boys, of 
the “ Warrior ; ” and a very pleasant job in 
prospect, to tow an unwieldy monster to a place 
like Bermuda, which is celebrated for its almost 
incessant gales of wind, in the event of which your 
only chance is, to sink her down to the water’s 
edge and wait for fair weather ; and as we were only 
to remain there twenty-four hours, time was precious. 
The first thing next morning, before daylight, a 
good many — and that good many chiefly consisting 
of that irrepressible boy, the “British midshipman” — 
were ashore bargaining for horse flesh — live, we mean, 
of course. We beg that responsible officer’s pardon, 
but are as yet undecided which of the two — that 
most undeniable scoundrel, the Madeira horse vendor, 
or the complacent British midshipman — is most satis- 
fied with the result at the end of the day. We know, 
of course, the least, but of the other two we should 
be inclined to think the midshipman gets the best 
of it, as in all likelihood the animal’s legs will 



FUNCHAL , MADEIRA 




OFF FUNCHAL, MADEIRA. 


decline performing any of tlieir functions for a week 
at least afterwards. If that most praiseworthy 
gentleman, the Secretary of the Society for the 
Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, receives pecuniary 
benefit by the number of his humane endeavours, 
we should mildly suggest his taking the earliest 
opportunity, notwithstanding his probable antipathy 
to sea sickness, to make a trip to Madeira, which 
would prove of equally great benefit to the island 
horses, as to his own heirs. Walking through the 
town that clay, and it was far from chilly, the 
middle of summer at Madeira being almost as 
hot a place as you wish to find, we saw a num- 
ber of those wretched animals that had been several 
trips to the Grand Corral and back since sunrise, a 
distance of only about thirty-four miles, over hard 
stones, diversified with an occasional relaxation 
in the shape of about eight miles almost perpen- 
dicular up to the convent for a change of scene 
between his other Alpine trips : enviable beast, the 
Madeira horse, with a hundred midshipmen turned 
loose in the island. The British Consul, Mr. Hay- 
ward, entertained the Admiral, Captains, etc., and a 
large party at luncheon, which entailed the consump- 
tion of a large quantity of very potent Madeira, 
which is a rather heavy drink for the middle of the 


8 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


clay, notwithstanding the undeniable quality ; and 
some accepted the proverbial hospitality of Mr. 

H n, who had, as usual, a sumptuous luncheon, 

and you had the satisfaction of standing to your 
mallet afterwards with his lovely and accomplished 
daughters. We must not omit to express intense 
admiration of the style of Miss M. H., at croquet 
of course ; and here we wiled away that charming 
of all climates, the Madeira summer evening, until 
five o’clock, when, as we were beginning to think of 
going on board, we saw our lost lamb, the “ Barrosa,” 
just coming round the point, which gave rise to 
eager hopes and expectations that we should remain 

the night, in the event of which Mrs. H n had 

made arrangements for a brilliant entertainment to 
take place in the evening, and if we behaved our- 
selves, we were to be allowed a moonlight stroll in 
the gardens afterwards. It was, however, suggested 
by Miss Practical that we should go down to the 
town and see if it were true, and if so, that the flag- 
ship should hoist a red pendant, at sight of which 
the white shoes should be pulled out immediately, 
ready for action, which accordingly we did. But, 
alas ! when we got on board, we found, like 
Johnny Gilpin, we still were urging onward, 

and the anchors going up instead of the pendants, 


MADEIRA TO BAHIA. 


9 


with the assistance of the mariner’s friend, in 
the shape of the screw, it being perfectly calm, 
without a ripple on the water we passed along on 
our pilgrimage. As the island was fading away in. 
distance, we still saw, or thought we saw, a figure 
clad in white gazing seaward, may we hope, longingly. 
And as soon as we had cleared the island, sail was 
made, and the next day found us in very nearly the 
same place, still dead calm, and at noon the “ War- 
rior ” and “ Black Prince ” passed us on their way 
to Porto Santo, and shortly afterwards we picked up 
a north-easterly wind, and passed on our southern 
way, going outside the Canaries and inside the Cape 
de Yerds without sighting any of them ; the wind 
carrying us to 15° N. 20° W. fell light, and went 
round to N.W. The next day — Tuesday, 13th — it 
falling calm in the afternoon, steam was got up by 
the second division, “ Bristol ” to tow “ Liverpool,” 
“ Liffey,” “ Endymion,” “ Barrosa,” “ Scylla and 
at 7 p.m. the squadron proceeded; the towing ships 
having steam up in two boilers, making rather less 
than three knots an hour. Immediately after starting, 
a light foul wind sprang up from S.W., when the 
“Bristol” and “Barrosa” lit another boiler, and at 
midnight the speed was under two knots. At 12.30 
a.m., “ Barrosa” carried her hawser away, and at 


10 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


4.25 a.m., the wind having freshened, and, conse- 
quently, the ships having almost stopped making any 
headway, cast off and made sail to the S.W. monsoon, 
in 11° 30' N., and 21° 20' W., which we carried to 
3° N. and 13° W., where we found the S.E. Trade, 
which carried us across the line in 20° west longitude, 
and gradually freshening as we neared the American 
coast at 5 a.m. on Monday, the 2nd of August, the 
“ Endymion ” made the signal, revolving light N.W. 
by N., and at half-past five, blowing fresh, shortened 
sail to topsails, and hauled to the wind to wait for 
daylight, weather thick and squally. 9.0 a.m. bore 
up, and 11 a.m. observed H.M.S. “ Phoebe” at anchor 
off Bahia, she having come down from the West Indies 
to take the “ Bristol’s” place in the squadron, as the 
latter being the training ship for the aspiring Nelsons, 
she had to return with her naval prodigies, in order to 
enable their anxious mothers to see how much their 
little trowsers would want letting down before they 
start on their next marine excursion. 

Anchored off the town at 1 p.m., when the “ Liver- 
“ pool ” saluted the Brazilian flag with twenty-one 
guns. Squadron dressed ship with masthead flags, 
in honour of the anniversary of the birthday of the 
late Empress of Brazil. Quite a novel idea, as the 
old lady had returned to the dust from whence she 


BAHIA TO RIO. 


11 


came for a considerable time, we believe. As regards 
the town of Bahia, we cannot say much, except that 
it is very small, very dirty, and very uninteresting, 
and is known principally for its pipless oranges. 

The Hydrographer of the Navy (Captain Richards) 
being supposed to have charge of the key of the 
wind chest, which, if he had, would have been con- 
venient, as he only allowed us six days to go down 
to Rio ; and the people of Bahia said, between ten 
and fourteen, it was hoped that the stock he had 
sent was waiting outside, as every day we were at sea 
over our appointed time was to be deducted from the 
days in harbour, which at the most was only just 
sufficient to get your clothes washed ; and if you were 
quicker over the passage than was allowed in the 
printed programme, it made no difference to your har- 
bour time, so it was altogether a one-sided transaction, 
conducted on economical principles, and with indi- 
vidual disregard that is liberally characteristic ; and 
we are afraid that as the last ship rounded Plymouth 
Breakwater, the Hydrographer must have put the 
Flyers up in a shelf, to be left there until return, as, 
weighing at daylight on the 4th with a light air as we 
got outside, where, if possible, it was lighter, and one 
of our magnificent frigates (“ Endymion”) got so near 
a reef, without of course touching, that steam was 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


1 0 

1 LJ 

obliged to be had resort to, in order to leave the 
unwelcome intruder, and we struggled slowly on with 
the light winds until the evening of the 14th, when, 
it becoming almost a calm, the Admiral entertained 
the captains of the squadron at dinner, who had to 
hurry back to their respective ships immediately 
afterwards, owing to a fast-approaching fog. One 
captain of a flying frigate, we believe, mistook his 
vessel, owing, of course, to the difficulty of distin- 
guishing Her Majesty’s vessels after dark, and, going 
on board H.M.S. “ Phoebe,” in preference to his own, 
ordered the officer of the watch to hoist his boat up, 
and the discipline of that ship was so perfect that 
he never ventured to remonstrate with his superior 
officer, and silently submitted to the exchange until it 
struck the gallant captain (the nightcap perhaps was 
of a different pattern) that he was in the wrong 
house, when he somewhat confusedly hurried over 
the side for fear of meeting the lawful owner ; and at 
last, we are happy to say, the gallant officer arrived 
safely at his own floating establishment. Next day, 
Sunday, the 15th, we were within twenty miles from 
the Raza Lighthouse, but afraid to stand in, owing 
to a thick fog, and the following morning, at a quarter 
past ten, the fog lifted a little, and showed Marica 
Island, and then we tacked to stand in. Having 


BAHIA TO RIO. 


13 


once got hold of the land, we had no intention of 
letting it go again, so stood boldly on, the weather 
being still very thick (two days’ fog outside Rio 
being the thing which, of course, had hardly ever 
been known before), and shortly afterwards we saw 
two vessels having the appearance of men-of-war 
making off towards the southward, who, directly they 
observed the formidable array of six British vessels, 
put their helms up, and bore down towards the 
squadron ; on closing which they were discovered to 
be Brazilian men-of-war, who had been sent out to 
welcome the British Squadron, an act of extreme 
courtesy on the part of the Brazilian Govern- 
ment ; one being a frigate, and the other a turret 
vessel (“ Lima Barros ”), armed with 450-pounder 
Whitworths, and the only available vessels they had, 
the others being employed in the endless-looking 
task of trying to catch Lopez, who, from the 
wildness of the country, his great knowledge of 
it, and utter want of roads, had succeeded in 
carrying on a war against the whole Brazilian 
Empire ever since an address to an Extraordinary 
Session of Congress, held in the Congress Hall of 
Ascunsion, the capital of Paraguay, from President 
Lopez, on the 5th of March, 1865, setting forth, as 
the chief points, that Brazil had violated the Treaty 


14 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


of 1850 for the maintenance of nationalities amongst 
the Republican. States, by allying herself with the 
rebel band of Flores, who afterwards, as President 
of the Uraguayan Republic, was basely assassinated 
in the streets of Monte Video, on the 10th of 
February, 1868 ; but more especially that Brazil had 
usurped the possession of a neutral province called 
Matto Grossa, situated between the Paraguayan and 
Brazilian frontier, and claimed by the former in 
virtue of discovery, possession, and treaties ; and 
also against the Government of the Argentine 
Confederation, for refusing permission to allow the 
Paraguayan troops to cross their province of Cor- 
rientes, and also protesting against their crossing a 
disputed territory called Missiones, through which 
provinces Lopez wanted to pass, to encounter Brazil 
on her own territory. Two days after which meeting 
the Paraguayan Senate conferred on their President 
the rank of Field-Marshal, and in accordance with 
a proposal in the Senate, made by Senor Riveros, 
Lopez agreed to lead the army in person, and so, 
up to the time of our arrival at Rio the war had 
lasted over four years, at an annual expense to Brazil 
of ten million pounds sterling. As a great deal has 
been written about Lopez, and, in all probability, a 
great deal more will be, all we say is, that he un- 


U10 .JANEIRO. 


15 


doubtedly was a very remarkable man, and at times 
that be perpetrated cruelties, which barbarism itself 
could not compete with, since which time, owing to 
the indefatigable exertions of the Conte D’Eu, at the 
head of the Brazilian army, and also being driven to 
the last extremity, he, we have since heard, has 
passed to a higher tribunal, where the good and 
bad will be judged equally, and without bigotry. 
However, Paraguay had left its mark on our friend, 
the turret-vessel, that came out to meet us, as she 
was covered with shot dents and other indications of 
where she had been unmercifully hammered by the 
Paraguayan battery at Humaita, and, after an inter- 
change of salutes and cheers, they turned round, 
and we all made our way together for that harbour, 
whose praises have been sung, allied with the Golden 
Horn and Bay of Naples, perhaps more than any 
others in the world ; but at that time Tasmania, New 
Zealand, and that much vaunted inlet of the sea 
(our fine harbour of Sydney, N. S. W.) were com- 
paratively unknown, and half-past four found us 
safely moored in Rio harbour, immediately after which 
Mr. Lennon Hunt, H. M. Consul, went on board the 
“ Liverpool,” to call on the Admiral, and also to 
give all the information in his power for the further- 
ance of our amusements on shore ; for which, and 


16 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


his many kindnesses, we tender him our sincere 
thanks. 

The next day, Tuesday, the 17th of August, was 
devoted by the swells to interchange of compliments, 
meaning, of course, a good deal of display of flags, 
hoisting of jibs, and great waste of powder, Ad- 
miral Lobo (Spanish Admiral), calling on board the 
“ Liverpool ” in the forenoon, from his flag-ship, 
the “ Blanca,” and in the afternoon, the Admiral 
and most of the oaptains went to call on Mr. Buckley 
Matthews, C.B., our Minister Plenipotentiary, from 
whom we heard that the Foreign Office, having com- 
municated through him to his Majesty the Emperor 
of Brazil, that the Flying Squadron would be at Bio 
on the 28th of July, the day that we were due 
by programme ; but Vhomme propose, and not being 
allowed the use of coal, as the winds objected, we 
were unable to fulfil our part of the contract, which 
was unfortunate, as the Emperor having, on one of 
the only occasions since the commencement of the 
Paraguayan war, most of his income being given for 
his country’s benefit towards carrying on the war, 
issued invitations for a grand entertainment at his 
palace, for the second or third night after our arrival, 
ought to have taken place, which he was unfortu- 
nately obliged to postpone indefinitely. We fancy 


RIO JANEIRO. 


17 


that there must have been an error somewhere ; and 

the next day the Admiral and Mr. B M 

called on the Minister of Marine, who also had, at the 
same time, the folio of Foreign Affairs, so his spare 
time was limited to an infinitesimal quantity, in 
order to thank him for their kindness in sending the 
vessels out to welcome the squadron. Thursday, 17th, 
was the day that the Emperor had consented to receive 
the officers of the squadron ; so, at half-past five in the 
evening, in perfect line-of-battle of carriages, headed by 
the Admiral and Minister, we started from the landing- 
place for the Emperor’s palace, about five miles from 
the town, where His Majesty received the officers, and 
after having a few words with each of the captains, 
as regards their previous ships, stations, etc., his 
favourite language being French, getting an answer 
from a distinguished officer of the squadron, who is 
a firm believer of the benefit to be derived from the 
Anglo-Saxon tongue becoming the universal language 
of the world, in reply to the second question, “ dans 
la Mediterranee ,” which almost shook the royal gravity. 
Shortly after which, His Majesty retired, and then the 
officers were trotted in to make their bow to the 
Empress and Princess Imp^riale where the gallant 
Captain, who had been decorated by his Sovereign 
for distinguished gallantry, became the special object 


18 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


of royal favour, the cross of valour being much ad- 
mired by the ladies. After leaving the palace, the 
Minister, Admiral, and most of the officers adjourned 
to the theatre of Lyrico Fluminenso, to see the Mar- 
chesa Caprinica del Grillo, better known perhaps as 
Ristori, of whom we only remark, that she is as 
well known in the Roman hospitals as on the Italian 
stage, and we were happy to see that Rio recognised 
not only her virtues but her merits, with a true 
Brazilian welcome, in the tragedy of Camma. The 
Imperial party, as usual, was there, as His Majesty 
patronized Riston’ s performance almost nightly, and, 
we believe, presented her with a magnificent diamond 
necklace before she left; also the Italian Society a 
gold bracelet ; and Rio was, in fact, taken by storm 
by the popular tragic actress. A good many wiled 
away a very pleasant day by a trip to the top of 
Cocovado Mountain, 8,000 feet ; from the top of 
which you get a lovely view of the harbour and its 
surroundings, and, to do it properly, we should 
suggest putting up at the Hotel de Prince, Des Etats 
Unis, where a man will find clean linen and every 
necessary, as well as luxuries and starting early in 
the morning, getting to the top as the morning sun 
sheds her first glow on the water of the harbour, 
causing the shipping to sparkle like gems in a sea 


RIO JANE I WO. 


19 


of gold, and forming one of the most lovely 
panoramas that nature has produced for the benefit 
of the world. On Friday, the 20tli, a good many, 
at the invitation of Dr. Gunning, originally Lecturer 
of Practical Anatomy at the Edinburgh University, 
and now one of the large landowners in Brazil, went 
to his house at Santa Anna de Rodrio, to which 
you go by rail over the zig-zag of the Cordelliera 
Mountains, 1,400 feet, where the subway is a grand 
triumph of engineering skill, and where you have to 
go five or six miles round a deep gorge that you 
might throw a stone over, with sharp curves, some 
of them half a circle in seventy yards, with a gradient 
of one in sixteen. On arriving at which, they were 
received with a real Scotch welcome by Mrs. Gunning, 
to whom, as housekeeper, nine or ten sudden ad- 
ditions to the household must have been a matter 
of no small panic in the commissariat department, 
and whatever her feelings were, she managed to 
conceal them well, as everything that was possible 
to do, in order to make you feel at home, was done 
by your hostess, and after a walk through a Brazilian 
garden and a village, that the Doctor has built for his 
liberated slaves, and a look at some of his Paraguayan 
prisoners, that he hires from Government at from two 
to three milries a day, whom they take no trouble to 




20 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


look after escaping, as, if they get away, which they 
can only do by going through the large towns, 
they are immediately detected. After which, a 
sumptuous dinner, Scotch toddy, and such a sleep as 
you only appreciate when you go from the grilling 
heat of a low tropical town to the invigorating air 
of the mountains. Out with the early bird in the 
morning to pick our worm, which, on this occasion, 
was the enjoyment of a before-breakfast stroll, while 
all nature was at its best ; then breakfast, sweetmeats, 
and other Scotch delicacies, after which the painful 
part of saying, “ Good-bye,” which was obliged to be 
done shortly after breakfast — our host accompanying 
us as far as Rodrio, where we parted with consider- 
able sorrow on our side, and from there, sixty miles 
of rail, through the most lovely scenery, to Entre 
Rios, and from there, by a mule coach, at a hand 
gallop all the way to Petropolis, where a halt was 
made for the night ; and the next morning early, in 
the coach again, going over the Sierra Mountains, and 
looking on the clouds and mountain tops, with an 
occasional glance at the terrestrial globe, as the 
clouds broke now and then in their course through 
the valleys. The road from Raiz do Sierra, for a dis- 
tance of ten miles, cost £18,000 a mile. And from 
there took train to Praiba, the laying down of which 


RI<) JANEIRO. 


21 


line cost a European a yard, so that traffic is not 
carried on in the country without considerable ex- 
pense, and it will be many years hence before the 
interior of the largest monarchy, perhaps excepting 
China, and naturally richest country in the world, de- 
velops the wealth of her marvellous resources, which at 
that time were perfectly paralyzed by the war. And, 
taking the ferry steamer from Praiba, we returned to 
our normal state on board Her Majesty’s vessels of war. 

On Sunday, the 22nd, we regret to say, we lost 
the company of Ristori and her family, as she was 
on her way to Buenos Ayres, to electrify the inha- 
bitants of the Argentine Confederation. Admiral 
Lobo, the Spanish Admiral, took the Marchese and 
Marchesa off to the Messagarie Imperiale steamer, 
“ Aunis,” which was to take them to Montevideo, 

the Signorina B a C a and her mother being 

escorted off in one of the flying cutters, by two 
representatives of their Sovereigns — a Victoria Cross, 
a British Consul, and an humble lieutenant, very 
much out of place in such exalted company ; and 
after remaining a short time on board until the 
ringing of many bells • and a good deal of swearing 
in unknown tongues, the parting came — on one side 
certainly — of sincere sorrow, and a wish (never ful- 
filled) to our next merry meeting at Buenos Ayres, 


oo 

CJ 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


and then the “ Aunis ” steamed slowly and stately 
out of the harbour, as though she was aware of the 
violence of the South American pamperos, which, 
in all probability, she would have to battle with 
before arriving at the entrance of that most dis- 
agreeable of all estuaries, the mouth of the River 
Plate. We wish them good luck, and well through 
it. And from thence to Nitheroy, on the opposite 
shore to Rio, and a charming dinner at a villa half 
way up the hill, kept by an ex-Italian ballet-dancer, 
notwithstanding one whom we saw scaling the hill for 
a last fond gaze on what was then only a distant line 
of smoke, to mark the track where the outward-going 
steamer had passed from our view, finished a very 
pleasant day, which would have been pleasanter still 
if the “Aunis” had broken down and given us the 
company of some of her living freight. 

On Monday, the 23rd, was the day His Majesty was 
to visit the squadron at 11 a.m. ; and immediately 
after that time, a royal salute, thundered forth from the 
batteries ashore, closely followed by the Spanish and 
Peruvian ships of war, told us that he was on his 
way some time before he appeared from behind 
the crowd of shipping in the harbour, and on His 
Majesty arriving on board the “ Liverpool,” the 
Brazilian flag was hoisted at the main, and the 


RIO JANEIRO. 


23 


squadron fired a royal salute. After which he was 
entertained by the exercise of the men at general 
quarters on board the “ Liverpool,” and also by the 
squadron manning and arming boats ; at the latter 
entertainment of which, the rocket-boats assembled 
under the flag-ship’s stern, to please the royal eye with 
a feu de joie of rockets, on which occasion the articles 
in question, as a rule, insisted on remaining where 
they were; and as a grand finale, and by dint of great 
perseverance and science, one was persuaded to leave 
its tube, and proceed up into space, at which His 
Majesty expressed himself content ; after which, he 
honoured the Admiral with his company at lunch, 
and then expressed a desire to visit the rest of the 
ships of the squadron, which, being unexpected, was 
slightly awkward, as “ Liffey’s ” and “ Endymion’s ” 
bands composed the gentlemen who played the 
Brazilian Anthem on his going on board the flag- 
ship, and as the “ Lifiey ” was next ship to the 
“ Liverpool,” and close to, a little difficulty was 
experienced at first to see how her band, having 
played His Majesty over the flagship’s side, going 
away, were to perform the same functions to him on 
going on board the “Lifiey.” But as it became a 
matter of necessity, it came to, “Do it at once, 
“ sir ; don’t ask me how.” So, as he went down 


24 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


one side, the gentlemen of musical propensities were 
propelled down the other, and by the aid of the 
modern invention of steam over the ancient one 
of oars, used in the imperial barge, they just ar- 
rived in time to blow His Majesty over their own 
side, though we believe the euphonium, having passed 
his prime, and being rather short in the wind, let 
off his portion of the National Anthem half way up 
the “ Liffey’s ” side, in preference to not at all. And 
after having inspected each ship, the squadron, with 
the exception of the “ Liffey ” (she having a man 
dangerously ill), fired a salute on his leaving each one, 
and also in company with foreign men -of- war and 
shore batteries, on His Majesty landing, making 
756 guns, or £70 worth of powder expended by the 
squadron during the day, the amount of which would 
have realized fourteen hundred tons of water, which, 
perhaps, would have been preferable, especially a little, 
after such a quantity of smoke. The following day 
the residents played the squadron at cricket, under a 
scorching tropical sun ; and whilst we were discussing 
to ourselves the respective merits of sunstroke, or 
being devilled alive, Mr. Buckley Mathews arrived 
with a little cadeau for the cricketers, in the shape of 
a dozen of champagne, for which he has secured their 
everlasting gratitude, and to the invigorating effect 




RIO TO MONTE VIDEO. 


25 


of which is mainly due our success, as the squadron 
won in one innings, and 13 runs to spare. After 
which, the Admiral entertained our Minister and the 
members of the Legation on board the “Liverpool;” 
an adjournment being made afterwards to the ball 
given by the British residents to the squadron, for 
which Mr. Mathews kindly gave up his house, for the 
great pleasure of having it turned inside out. We 
hope the sight of the room slightly rewarded him, as 
it was an exceedingly pretty one, with its different 
specimens of ladies and uniforms of most known 
countries in the world. As regards the ladies, we 
think the wife of a distinguished officer holding high 
position in the Spanish Navy, was without rival. 
5 a.m. saw most on board, and at 7.30 we were 
steaming slowly out of one of the finest natural 
harbours in the world into the fogs and heavy gales 
constantly hovering about the mouth of the Liver 
Plate as a trap for unwary navigators. 

Thursday, 26th, calms, light westerly winds, and 
fogs, which lasted for several days, with a good 
deal of thunder and lightning, and, in fact, gene- 
rally extremely unpleasant weather, which lasted 
until the 30th, at noon of which day it was 
blowing a gale in squalls from the N.E., baro- 
meter standing high, and giving no indications of 


20 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the approach of bad weather. At 5.15 p.m., “ Phoebe” 
dropped a man overboard; and as it was getting- 
dusk, and a strong sea running, she was unable to 
save him ; and being afraid of losing her boat’s crew, 
as the weather was thick and threatening, she recalled 
her and stood on. At half-past two, in middle watch, 
shortened sail to a strong squall from the N.W., and 
at 8 a.m. were hove to under close-reefed main- 
topsail, maintrysail, and forestaysail to a heavy gale 
from the westward ; only one ship in sight from 
the flagship, and that only occasionally. On the 
1st of September, at daylight, still blowing a strong 
gale — “Liffey” and“Barrosa” in sight at 9 a.m. — wore 
ship to look after our scattered flock. “ Phoebe” and 
“ Endymion ” rejoined in the afternoon, so the little 
flock were together again, with the exception of 
“ Scylla,” who prefers her own, to squadron company 
on the high seas, and has probably secured her 
opportunity. After the storm comes the calm, and 
the wind remained light and variable for several 
days. On the 3rd, “ Barrosa ” found a ship-rigged 
vessel west, about fifteen miles off, and com- 
municating what she hoped would be glad tidings, 
was requested to chase the strange ship, which she 
accordingly did ; and away went our bloodhound on 
the track, and shortly afterwards the signal was 


RIO TO MONTE VIDEO. 


made from the flagship — “ Are strange ships men-of- 
war ?” To which she received the answer — “ Appear 
to be.” And shortly before dark our hound returned, 
without her prey ; though there was little doubt that 
the strange ship was our “ Scylla ” urging on her 
wild career, and, unlike Mrs. Lot, not looking 
back. On Sunday morning the “ Barrosa ” lost a 
boy from yellow fever, which she had picked up at 
Rio, and in the afternoon the squadron were 
carrying a good deal of sail to from fresh to strong 
gales from the N.E., going from 13 to 14 knots, 
trying to make the Island of Flores, at the mouth 
of the river, before dark, as we were perfectly 
aware that it was blowing a heavy gale of 
wind outside, and we thought that there might 
be a change, which must be for the better, in. 
At half-past three, the Admiral made the signal — 
“ Should the weather thicken before reaching Flores, 
“ I shall most likely run to sea.” Happy thought ! 
But to our mutual and intense satisfaction, so base 
a design was frustrated by the wind falling lighter 
as we closed the land ; • and at five minutes past 
seven, descried the light on East Point, and slowly 
wended our way, during the night, up that mighty 
river supposed to have been discovered by Sebastian 
Cabot, a native of Bristol, while employed in the 


28 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


service of Charles V. of Spain, and called by him 
the Rio de la Plata, or River of Silver, on account 
of the massive silver ornaments that he found the 
natives wearing ; or perhaps the original name given 
to it by the Indians of Parana (resembling the sea) 
is more appropriate, as the width across the mouth 
is nearly three times the distance from Holyhead to 
Kingstown. We anchored off Monte Video at 9 a.m. 
on Monday, the 6th of September, our little straggler, 
“ Scylla,” coming down to meet us, almost deluding 
you into the idea that she was pleased to see us 
again, where we found “Racoon,” “Speedwell,” 
“Beacon,” and “Pylades” at anchor, the latter 
having just arrived from the Pacific to relieve the 
“ Racoon,” ordered to the West Indies, and also 
where we found ourselves about three miles off 
the shore, the water medium between us, usually 
being in a state of very unpleasant turbulency, 
owing to a constant succession of pamperos, one of 
which coming on that night, obliged the captains, who 
had gone to dine with the Admiral, to follow out the 
maxim of, “ Where I dine, I sleep,” and also making 
it a very pleasant anchorage for recreation (we only 
answer for our own time), as you are always in a 
happy state of ignorance when you go on shore as to 
how many days will elapse before you get on board 


MONTE VIDEO. 


29 


again ; or, what is more important, after getting on 
board, as to how many days may elapse before you 
get ashore again. Tuesday, 7tli, fired a royal salute, 
and dressed ship with masthead flags, in honour of 
the anniversary of the foundation of the Brazilian 
Empire. Wednesday was a grand night at the 
opera, Rigoletto being part of the entertainment, the 
greater attraction, however, being the ballet, which 
was carried on by an Italian company, who, we 
imagine, had left their own country on account, pro- 
bably, of the shattered state of their Lord Chamber- 
lain’s nervous system, and found more sympathy from 
the inhabitants of the Uruguayan Republic, owing pro- 
bably to their closer proximity to the sun ; in fact, 
old continental ballet stagers were heard to say that 
European eyes had never seen its equal on their own 
stage (we decline moralizing on the effect, and only 
mention the fact). Headed by three Prima Ballerinas 
— one of whom had lately married an Italian officer in 
one of their men-of-war, and almost as recently left 
by the same person to her own devices — who, indi- 
vidually performing some more than ordinary 
pirouette, which dazzled the house, and almost 
made your head whirl, till you imagined her toe 
must penetrate the stage like a corkscrew, and while 
she was turning herself into a Catherine wheel, the 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


30 

house was silent as a tomb, and not until she sank, 
apparently almost lifeless on the stage, did it come 
down with an applause that only Castilian blood, 
heated seven times, in a South American Kepublic, 
could hope to attain, and which is a total stranger 
to the inhabitants of our frigid climes — happily, 
perhaps — and the only effect of which was to bring 
her successor out ten times more determined to 
vanquish, which invariably she did, each successive 
one leaving her predecessor completely in the shade 
for the time (we trust we shall not be considered 
improper if we mention that it was the fashion to 
have their mottoes embroidered in gold or silver on 
their garters), until nothing but nature would have 
prevented their continuing all night, as each time the 
house came down with rounds and rounds of applause; 
and the final attempt of the ballet-master, to rouse the 
blood of the Uraguayans was worthy of his country, and 
must have been, in a mercantile point of view, for the 
house, a decided success. We noticed one gallant captain 
of the squadron, who, we regret to say, was rather near- 
sighted, and from his position in the stalls was unable 
to see as well as he desired, put his spectacles on, 
and almost immediately afterwards leave the house, 
under an imaginary compromise, we suppose, be- 
tween his better half and his conscience. What he 


MONTE VIDEO. 


31 

could have seen was never revealed, as, a month 
afterwards, we regret to say, ill-health obliged him 
to invalid ; but we must hope the shock of that night 
was not the primary cause. He had hardly taken 
his departure in time, as, immediately afterwards, a 
bell began to toll, and a score or more of priests, 
in garments which originally were vestments (but 
that was too much for Uraguay), arrived on the stage 
in apparent devotions, and in remonstrance against 
the levities before them ; but gradually, through the 
fascination of the scene and the seductions of the 
ballet corps, these men of supposed adamant, yielding to 
the frenzy of the moment — fell — and in one universal 
can-can the curtain fell also over a sea of muslin, the 
only distinguishable objects of which were shaven heads 
and embroidered mottoes. The house stood up with 
one accord for an instant, speechless ; and then broke 
forth into what we can call nothing else except a 
roar, growing gradually and gradually louder until you 
began to tremble for the structure itself, which lasted 
for about a quarter of an hour without a sign of 
response from the stage, when they slowly, and appa- 
rently unwillingly, commenced to leave. They could 
hardly have expected it over again, especially as the 
black-coated gentlemen would have required some 
new garments before they would have been able to 


32 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


reappear. We must mention one peculiarity about the 
theatre : they had a gallery exclusively set apart for 
women, and perhaps more zealously guarded from the 
all-destroyer than the portals of an Eastern harem. 
The next day, the President of the Republic, who, for- 
merly as Colonel Battle and Minister of War to General 
Flores at the time of his assassination, rose the gar- 
rison to arms, and overpowered Fortunato Flores, son 
of the assassinated President, who was endeavouring to 
raise a revolution at the head of his own regiment in 
the streets of Monte Video, received the Admiral ; and 
in the evening, the senior officer on the south-east 
coast entertained on board his ship, in that profuse 
manner for which he was known ; and, as usual, a 
pampero coming on immediately after sitting down, 
there was nothing to do but make a night of it, 
which there was no difficulty in, owing to the hospi- 
tality of our host ; and at 3.30 a.m., the officer of the 
middle watch reports one survivor and his captain 
still playing double dummy ; and shortly after, hear- 
ing the wind of hunting horn and a hark forrard, the 
gallant captain, fancying himself once more leading his 
harriers, supposed that he had retired to rest, in which 
he was correct, and from which we did not rouse him 
when we retired in considerable peril the next morning 
to our respective ships, as it was still blowing a gale 


MONTE VIDEO. 


33 


of wind, though not with sufficient force to prevent 
the British Admiral going to pay his farewell visit 
to his French colleague, much to the consternation 
of that officer, and also to the officer of the watch 
of His Imperial Majesty’s ship :£ Circ6,” who, doubt- 
less, in his fancied security (a Monte-Videan gale not 
tending to the enjoyment of boating) had perhaps 
somewhat relaxed vigilance, and was not made aware 
of the exalted rank of his visitor until close along- 
side, when, for a moment, it was almost a panic ; 
but the discipline of the French Navy immediately 
asserted itself, and the head of the French squadron 
in the South Atlantic met his distinguished guest 
halfway on his own quarterdeck, notwithstanding the 
apparent impregnability of his position. 

During the stay of the squadron a good many 
visits were paid to Mr. Buschental’s Quinta (Buen 
Retiro), which combines a specimen of the choicest 
botany from all parts of the world ; and also, before 
leaving Monte Video, we must mention the extreme 
and exceptional beauty of its women, comparing 
most favourably with Cork, Seville, and a few other 
places renowned for fair women. 


D 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


34 

MONTE VIDEO TO CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 

The next morning (Saturday, the 11th of September), 
at 6.45 a.m., the squadron weighed, under double- 
reefed topsails, to beat down the river against a strong 
easterly breeze, and generally unpropitious state of 
affairs — glass falling, with a good deal of thunder and 
lightning, heavy rains and squalls, and weather gene- 
rally looking very threatening — a second astonisher to 
the Frenchman of Albion’s prowess. And as we got 
towards the mouth of the river, the wind fell light, 
and in the afternoon it was almost calm, with heavy 
rain, thunder, and lightning. At midnight the 
squadron were dispersed, and at 2.30 a.m. fog very 
thick. “ Scylla ” asked permission to anchor, and 
was told to sound, and reported six fathoms, when 
she immediately afterwards made the signal — “ Hear 
“ breakers and then the “ Liverpool ” anchored, 
weighing again under steam at 6 a.m. Fog still thick. 
Trying to gather her flock together by firing half-hour 
guns, to assist her in which the fog lifted for a short 
time, just long enough to allow the flock to reas- 
semble, and then closed in again as thick as ever ; 
the “ Liverpool ” piloting the squadron all night with 
half-hour guns ; and next morning the fog lifted to a 
light breeze from S.E., to which we stood away to 


MONTE VIDEO TO (JAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 


35 


the eastward, with light and fresh breezes from N.E. 
and S.E. until the forenoon of the 15th, when the wind 
increased to fresh and strong gales from N. and E., 
gradually working round to N.W., and from there to 
S.W. and back, blowing fresh and strong gales, with a 
good deal of thunder, lightning, and hail, and, in fact, 
it was generally wet and unpleasant— as a vessel of 
war of ancient model always must be, running before 
gales of wind — which lasted until the 19th, when the 
wind fell to almost a calm for two days. 

On the 21st, the Brave West Winds were carrying 
us along again eleven and twelve knots, on which day, 
at 10 a.m., the “ Barrosa ” was seen to heave-to and 
lower a boat, the ship at the time being under double 
reefs, with a strong sea running, and weather thick ; 
and on her returning to her station, in the afternoon, 
she made the signal to the Admiral : “ Something 
“ floating, reported man overboard ; did not pick up, 
“ but nobody missing from ‘ Barrosa.’ ” And then she 
afterwards asked “LifFey” if she had lost anybody, 
to which “ Liffey ” replied, that she had mustered 
ship’s company, and nobody missing ; and the weather 
coming on thick, no more information was to be 
derived that day. The next day, “ Liffey ” reported a 
man missing ; so he must have fallen overboard with- 
out anybody knowing anything about it, and if it had 


36 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


not been for two boys in the “ Barrosa ” accidentally 
seeing what they thought was a man in a waterproof, 
floating on his back, his fate would have remained for 
ever unknown to all except his Maker; and as she 
was going about ten knots, time was too precious to 
calculate the risks, and deeds not words were chiefly 
required, and nobly carried out by the captain of the 
“ Barrosa,” who fortunately was on the bridge at the 
time of the alarm, and which elicited the signal from 
the Admiral : “ Your efforts yesterday were very 

creditable.” The Brave West Winds lasted without 
intermission until we arrived at the Cape ; the day 
before which, the squadron ran 280 miles in the 
twenty-four hours, with a strong northerly breeze, 
and the “ Liffey ” took her departure for Table Bay, 
to look after the men on leave at Cape Town. On 
the 3rd, at 7.30 a.m., Table Mountain was seen 
on the port-bow; and at 1 p.m. rounded the 
Cape of Good Hope, and spent the rest of the 
afternoon with light airs and catspaws of wind under 
the high land in Kalk Bay. Opened the anchorage 
about four o’clock, and found the “ Rattlesnake ” 
there with Commodore Dowell, who at once saluted 
the Admiral, and from then until half-past six 
was spent in beating about, trying to get up 
to our berth in almost a calm, and with not too 


simon’s bay, cape of good hope. 37 

much room for five vessels to work, the rule of the 
road being for the starboard tack to hold his wind. 
The flagship made the signal : “ Admiral remains on 
“starboard tack;” so that, though the “Liverpool” 
was on the port tack, the Admiral was on the star- 
board, which simplified matters for that vessel very 
much, and at one time the “ Barrosa ” appeared to wish 
to take charge, as on one tack she took her depar- 
ture from the “ Scylla’s ” fore-chains, and the next 
time from the “ Phoebe’s ” bow, with no more damage, 
though, than a broken skiff and feelings rather sore, 
as the Admiral made the signal : “ Well done, 

“ ‘Phoebe!’” And as they made quite certain that 
they could not have helped it, as they were in stays 
at the time, and, therefore, not under control, they 
entertained a short and erratic idea that it might 
have been what Artemus calls “ sarcastically meant 
and, in the mean time, the “ Endymion,” in avoiding 
the ruck, had put her bow so near the sand that she 
hung in stays for about a quarter of an hour — the 
attraction of the copper to the sand ; only, of course, 
and without further mishap, the squadron anchored at 
a quarter-past six, when the “Liverpool” made the 
signal : “ Admiral is much pleased with the way 

“ ships have worked in.” We found, besides the 
“ Rattlesnake,” the “ Pandora ” and “ Seringapatam ” 


38 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


(as usual) lying here, the Commodore going off 
at once to pay his respects to the Admiral, and 
offer him the hospitalities of his house, where Mrs. 
Dowell was doing the honours with a grace and 
kindliness peculiarly her own. His Excellency Sir 
Philip Wodehouse also filled his house at Cape 
Town with the officers of the squadron. 

We here quote the arrival of the squadron from 
the prolific pen of the correspondent of the Cape 
Argus, who, apparently suffering from inspiration, 
informed the readers of the great South African 
journal what he had seen — 

“ For two days the inhabitants of Kalk Bay 
“ (better situated than their neighbours at Simon’s 
“ Town) had been on the watch for the Flying 
“ Squadron. Fishing being at a discount, owing to 
“ the high tides and rough water, the occupation 
“ has been a positive God-send in a place where 
“ the aboriginals believe in nothing but fish and 
“ beer. Many a glass has been turned seaward 
“ during the last fortnight, and bright, if not anxious 
“ eyes, have looked out wistfully over the Southern 
“ Ocean. As we had ourselves cast in our lot for a 
“ few days with the fortunes of Kalk Bay, we are able 
“ to say what transpired on Sunday last. The truth 
“ must be told that the first warning we received of 


simon’s bay, cape of good hope. 39 

“ the approach of the squadron was from the exciting 
“ waving of two or three white pocket-handkerchiefs, 
“ from a neighbouring stoep. It is true that the 
“ squadron at that time was some fifteen or sixteen 
“ miles away ; but in these days of telegraph, sub- 
“ marine and others, these things are not thought 
“ of. The signal was made, and, for aught we 
“ know, answered from the deck of the Admiral’s 
“ ship. 

“ Then our eyes travelled out to sea, and there, 
“ some miles distant on the blue water, were five 
“ gallant ships of war appearing to sail in line abreast, 
“ as if in order of battle. They soon, however, 
“ separated, some showing their broadsides, and 
“ others their bow and cut-water. It was evident that 
“ the squadron was not to sail into harbour od a fair 
“ wind. A gentle breeze set off the shore, and every 
“ ship of the squadron had to tack to the very place 
“ of anchorage. This operation lasted some seven 
“ hours from the time when it was first sighted, and 
“ a more beautiful spectacle we have not witnessed for 
“ many a day. The breeze was stiff enough to fill 
“ every inch of canvas, but not sufficient to cause any 
“ rolling of the vessels from side to side. 

“ Each ship came in full-breasted, upright, and 
“ stately, as if borne on the quiet surface of a river. 


40 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“In the broad waters of Kalk Bay, every vessel had 
“ to make a long leg on either tack, and the squadron 
“ was proportionately scattered ; but after the Light- 
“ house was passed, and the comparatively narrow 
“ entrance of Simon’s Bay neared, they came close 
“ together. We followed on the road which skirts 
“ the bay, watching every movement. The sun was 
“ getting low, and as one ship crossed the path of the 
“ other, shadows of spars and sails fell and passed 
“ like spectres on the open canvas of the sister ship, 
“ At the entrance to the bay the scene was singularly 
“ beautiful ; a cloud of white canvas moved between 
“ the bare, brown hills, ever and anon shifting into 
“ the red beam of the evening, or the gloom of the 
“ further shore. Here, too, as if by magic, the whole 
“ fleet fell into order — three in line on one tack, and 
“ two on the other — what we took to be the flagship 
“ of the Admiral, leading the way. If the frigates 
“ had been sailing to encounter a plunging fire from 
“ the shore forts, they could not have moved in more 
“ exact line.” 

As the inspiration lasted a long time, and was all 
committed to paper, it may become wearisome, not- 
withstanding it really having been, we were told, a 
very pretty sight from the shore. So we will content 
ourselves with the last paragraph. 


simon’s bay, cape op good hope. 


41 


“ Whilst the residents in and about Simon’s Town 
“ were enjoying the unusual sight of the arrival of 
“ five of Her Majesty’s ships in Simon’s Bay, the 
“ people of Cape Town, Green Point, and Sea Point 
“ had an opportunity of witnessing the arrival in 
“ Table Bay of the ‘ Liffey,’ one of the largest ships 
“ in the squadron. Made down in the afternoon, she 
“ was observed approaching the bay under a press of 
“ canvas seldom seen in this quarter of the globe. 
“ The * Liffey,’ as she came fully in view, appeared 
“ what she is — one of the best specimens of the 
“ wooden walls of Old England. Like her sister 
“ ship, the £ Liverpool,’ she was built about the time 
“ of the Russian war, and is generally considered one 
“ of the finest frigates in Her Majesty’s Navy ; and 
££ she is rightly thought so. Standing on her broad 
££ deck, even a landsman may see that she combines 
££ much of the strength of the line-of-battle ship, with 
££ the swiftness of the lighter frigate. Though months 
££ at sea, and now engaged in refitting, a visit will 
££ amply repay those that make it. Courtesy from the 
“ officers and civility from their men will meet anyone 
“ who treads her deck.” 

With fiery, passionate eloquence like the above, no 
wonder the Cape Argus is now of world-wide repute. 
It would be unfair to criticize such an article tech- 


42 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


nically, but we should like to know what evolution 
the inhabitants of Cape Town and its environs went 
through when they “ made the ‘ Liffey ’ down.” How- 
ever, Jack read it, though he says he didn’t, and, as 
he usually does on such occasions, pondered until 
coming towards the end, when the gilt on the ginger- 
bread so deeply affected him that he put his thoughts 
on paper, and sent them to the editor (or editors, as 
he believes in the multitude), and in consequence the 
Argus inserted : — 

“ Sirs, — Having heard that there is an account of 
“ the Flying Squadron in your paper, which I have 
“ not had the pleasure of seeing myself, of which you 
“ give a minute description of the arrival of the said 
“ squadron, and of the magic disappearance of the 
“ sails of the ships composing the squadron, also of 
“ the fine lot of men they have on board, of the 

character of which you gave them, I think they all 
“ feel very thankful to you for. Now, as you say, the 
“ men may have a very fine appearance to people on 
“ shore, but little do they know of the privations they 
“ have been subject to since they left the shores of 
“ Old England. It is all very well for people on 
“ shore to praise the men or the ships up, but little 
“ will they think that one half of the cruise we had 


SIMON S BAY, OAPE OP GOOD IIOfE. 


43 


“ rusty water to wash face and hands in, also our 
“ clothes, which has spoilt the best part of our white 
“ frocks and trousers. Mr. Editor, I must let you 
“ know, we have worked and drilled very hard since 
“ we left home — sometimes the greater part of our 
“ meal hours. I must tell you, by what I have seen 
“ in some of onr home papers, that our friends at 
“ home are not so much interested in this squadron as 
“ they were on first leaving England, on account of 
“ the treatment we received since we left to go on the 
“ cruise. When we are at sea we scarcely get a pint 
“ of pure water per day, which is very hard, especially 
“ after two hours’ exercise aloft in a hot climate. 

“ So, hoping that you will insert this in your paper, 
“so as to let the people of the Cape see that all 
“ is not gold that glitters, 

“ I remain yours, 

“ A Seaman Attached to Flying Squadkon.” 

Jack undoubtedly thought he would rub a little of 
the gilt off, which we leave him at, and go back to 
our story. Refitting the ships was one of the chief 
things to be looked to, as you had to do that ; 
coal, provision, take in stores, and give the men 
leave, all of which performances had to take place 
in ten days, there was no time to be spared, so the 


44 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


refit commenced immediately on Monday morning ; 
and in tlie afternoon, Mrs. Dowell gathered together 
a very pleasant afternoon party for the benefit of 
the squadron, where we particularly noticed a 
peculiar absence of temper at croquet, which can 
only be accounted for by the advantage the 
softer sex derives from the balmy air of the Cape 
in comparison to our frigid clime. All the week 
Cape Town was full of the squadron, officers and 
men, which was a God-send to the hotels, the 
Royal being largely patronized, on account of Mrs. 
Kennemayer’s indisputable good horses. On Wed- 
nesday the Admiral went up to Cape Town to 
stay with the Governor, and in the afternoon 
the band of the 11th played in the gardens, where, 
we regret to say, there was an almost total absence 
of the ladies of the upper ten ; owing, we heard, 
to the supposed possession of them by two sombre- 
looking damsels in deep mourning, who certainly, 
when we had the pleasure of seeing them, would 
have done credit to an ecclesiastical training. “ On 
guard ” is certainly the motto of the Cape matron ; 
but we venture to think more unholy ideas would 
be kept out of the brain of their flock by suppressing 
a large portion of their present literature, than 
by forbidding the supposed contaminating influ- 


simon’s bay, cape of good hope. 45 

ence of rubbing shoulders in a public garden 
with those who have once fallen from the path of 
virtue, and if such was a universal idea, we are much 
afraid that the English matrons would experience 
great difficulty in selecting a fit public entertainment 
for their daughters. On Thursday the “ Liffey ” got 
beaten at cricket by a mixed team of soldiers and 
civilians, on the Wynberg Ground, which was largely 
patronized by the squadron, and where we had the 
pleasure of seeing our friend, the Honourable Walter, 
bring his team on the ground in true coachmanlike 
style, and when the ribbons were handled, and the 
team got a breather round the field, with the Bishop 
of the squadron, in the place of honour, the delighted 
spectators gave vent to their feelings of undisguised 
admiration by constant bursts of applause, and in 
the evening Sir Philip Wodehouse gave his ball to 
the squadron, which was eminently a success, as 
there were gathered the fairest of the fair, in a 
country famous for its beauty, and where, as usual, 
the matrons we think carried off the laurel crown, 
in the midst of whom we saw a brilliant necklace 
exacting rightful homage from a legion of her un- 
freed serfs ; and in a room where none were plain, 
we saw, for the first time, the green and white 
frock, destined at a later period to carry much 


46 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


anguish to so many of the Flying Squadron, and 
also the “ B — y.” She will forgive us, we hope, for 
the name, when we say that notwithstanding the 
many oceans, and tens of thousands of miles that 
we have travelled since we parted, that the name 
will still recall the pleasantest memories, almost to 
conviction, to some of our fellow travellers ; and on 
the next afternoon, the 11th band played at Rondes- 
boch, where all the world and his wife assembled to 
see and be seen ; and presently, threading its 
way through the fast gathering multitude, was seen 
the smart bay team ably steered by the Honourable 
Walter, to the great delight of those that saw it, 
and gratification (?) of those inside, as lives were unen- 
sured. On Saturday, the squadron played Mr. Percy 
Vigor’s eleven on the Wynberg Ground, which was 
decided by the first innings in favour of the Fleet, but 
we regret to say our opponents had lost the valuable 
service of Mr. C. N. Thomas, their bowler, through in- 
disposition, and in the evening the 11th Regiment had 
invited the Admiral and officers of the “ Phoebe ” to 
dinner ; the Admiral, we regret to say, not being well 
enough, had returned to Simon’s Bay to put himself 

under the care of Mr. D 1. Sunday was a day of 

peace and quiet, in which respect, we are happy to 
say, our Colonies follow the example of the mother 


simon’s bay, cape of good norE. 4 7 

country; and several of the officers went to the 
picturesque little church of Wynberg, where the eccle- 
siastic carrying on the duty, returning good for evil, 
having a dog-cart driven almost into his aisle (owing 
to the unknown absence of porch), and who, being 
disturbed in his Second Lesson, sang the well-known, 
much-loved hymn : “ For those in Peril on the Sea ” 
— a rare thing to hear in almost an inland church. 

Monday, the Western Province Club played the 
officers of the squadron, the account of which we 
borrow again from the Cape Argus. 

“ WESTERN PROVINCE CLUB V. THE ELEVEN OF THE FLYING 
“ SQUADRON. 

“ This interesting and well-contested match was 
“ played on the Wynberg Ground yesterday, with 
“ His Excellency the Governor, and the * Upper 
“ ‘ Ten ’ of the city, and its neighbour for spectators. 

“ The Western Province, having won the toss, sent 
“ in Lieutenant Fox and Mr. Steytler, who were not 
“ separated before they had contributed forty to the 
“ score. From this time the aspect of affairs under- 
“ went a change. Mr. Pearson’s slow twisters began 
“ to take effect, and Mr. Sparkes’s steady round-hand 
“ balls were hard to get away. Advocate Thompson 
“ made some brilliant hits, contributing twelve to the 


score. 


48 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ The ‘ Fleet ’ went in for eighty- six, and chiefly 
“ owing to the excellent play of their captain, Lieu- 
“ tenant Wright, who carried his bat with thirty runs, 
“ and who was admirably supported by Lieutenant 
“ Bruce, all but succeeded in reaching the number, 
“ the last wicket falling for eighty-five runs. The 
“ fielding of the Blue-Jackets was excellent, that of 
“ the Western Province Club middling, one or two 
“ not difficult catches being made. 

“ After luncheon, the Western Province Club went 
“ in for their second innings, Messrs. Ogilvie and 
“ Steytler taking the bat to the bowling of Messrs. 
“ Wright and Pearson. Mr. Ogilvie was soon caught 
“ off one of Pearson’s slows, and Steytler was also 
“ caught after a short but brilliant innings, in which 
“ he scored twenty-six; C. Van Renen made nothing, 
“ but Baskerville and Thompson got together, and 
“ by splendid play, rapidly increased the score. The 
“ innings closed for a hundred and eight, most of the 
“ players making a stand. The bowling and fielding 
“ of the squadron was not nearly so good as in the 
“ first innings. 

“ The squadron commenced their innings at half- 
“ past five, so that there was little time to run up 
“ a score. Those who went in, however, made a 
“ gallant attempt, forty-six runs being run up for five 


SIMON’S BAY, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 


49 


“ wickets. The game was therefore decided by the 
“ first innings, and won by the Western Province 
“ Club by one run. 


1st Innings. 

Lieut. Fox, E.A., b Pearson... 

Mr. G. Steytler, c and b Pearson ... 
Lieut. Stewart (86th), c Sparkes, b 

Pearson 

Mr. C. Van Eenen, b Pearson 

Lieut. Easkerville (11th), c Eichmond, 

b Sparkes 

Adv. Thompson, M.L.A., c Wright, 

b Pearson 

Mr. C. Eudd, run out, thrown Pearce 
Ensign Williams (86th), b Pearson ... 
Ensign Barry (11th), hit wkt., b 

Pearson 

Lieut. Banning, E.A., c Sparkes, b 

Wright 

Eev. Canon Ogilvie, not out 

Bye, 1 ; wides, 4; no balls, 1 ; total 


2nd Innings. 

. 23 run out Pearson, thrown 


Eichmond 1 

15 c Pearson, b Wright ... 26 

8 c Sparkes, b Pearson ... 0 

0 c Prothero, b Wright ... 0 

8 b Sparkes 25 

12 b Sparkes 24 

1 c Baring, b Wright ... 3 

8 b Wright 4 

0 not out 13 

1 b Pearson 1 

3 c Eichmond, b Pearson 4 
7 Bye, 1 ; leg bye, 1 ; 

wides, 5 ; total ... 7 


WESTEEN PEOVINCE CLUB. 


86 


108 


THE FLYING SQUADEON. 


1st Innings. 


2nd Innings. 


Mr. Pearce (A.P.), b Baskerville 1 

Mr. Baring (S P.), b Fox 4 

Mr. Adamson (Mid.), b Baskerville ... 0 

Mr. Henderson, b Baskerville 0 

Mr. Eichmond, b Baskerville 0 

Lieut. Pearson, c Van Eenen, b Fox ... 2 

Lieut. Wright, not out 30 

Mr. Prothero, b Barry 8 

Mr. Sparkes, b Barry ... 0 

Lieut. Bruce, b Fox 7 


Mr. Beresford, run out, thrown Ogilvie 1 
Byes, 21 ; leg byes, 4 ; wides, 7 ; total 32 


run out Baskerville, 


thrown Williams ... 7 

b Fox 8 

not out 5 

b Baskerville 0 

not out 1 

b Fox .. — 12 

c and b Fox 4 


Byes, 2 ; leg byes, 3 ; 
wides, 8 ; total .. 13 


85 


51 


50 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Our last man, running liimself out, caused bitter 
execrations to be burled on bis bead, but tbe fit 
was quickly over, and harmony remained undis- 
turbed. After tbe match was over, and a plunge 
at tbe Wynberg Hotel, for tbe purpose of rein- 
vigoration, some of tbe eleven went up to tbe 
camp, and dined with the cricketers of tbe 86th. 
Whether it was the novelty of tbe causes, or 
tbe extra exuberance of animal life consequent on 
being on terra Jirma, they displayed a very jovial 
appearance to tbe soldier on vigil, as adjournment 
was made to tbe hotel for the purposes of pool, 
when one of tbe number (celebrated for bis slows) 
finished three pints of milk, and then went to bed, 
and to tbe bath, which was also ready, which, on 
bis being about to avail himself of in tbe morning, 
found it dry, and on collecting scattered thoughts, 
recollected that perhaps he might have finished it 
in the night. Moral : Ware midnight milk. 

On the next day, Tuesday, commenced the festi- 
vities of Simon’s Town, whither every one flocked that 
could find a hole to put their head, the commodore 
filling his house to overflowing. Sandfleet was there, 
and a very pleasant gathering he had, and every way 
in which it was possible to show hospitality was done 
by the commodore and his wife. In the afternoon the 


SIMON S BAY, CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 


51 


Admiral entertained on board the “ Liverpool,” about 
180 sitting down to lunch on the main deck, and 
directly afterwards dancing commenced, and went 
on with commendable vigour until six, and then an 
impromptu supper, which while the guests were below 
discussing, the ship was lit up with the lanterns of 
the squadron, so that when they returned to the arena 
it had become a blaze of dazzling light, and dancing 
went on, we hope and think to the enjoyment of all, 
except one or two of the elder lords of creation, who, 
we dare say, would have preferred not seeing the 
young and faithful helpmates of their little joys 

Yielding to dark-blue arm, the taper waist 

O’er which the sailor’s hand may wander undisplaced. 

O, seductive waltz, source of flushing cheeks and languishing eyes, 
Teaching the young ideas how much to prize ! 

For certainly, according to Byron, 

Not Cleopatra on her galley’s deck 
Displayed so much of leg or more of neck 
Than thou, Ambrosial Waltz, when first the moon 
Beheld thee twirling to a Saxon tune. 

But considering, probably, that it would be alto- 
gether vanity to attempt remonstrance, they only 
gazed and wondered with the honest Turk what 
might follow all this palming work, until nature at 
last gave way, and a little after ten the now eager 
husbands managed to persuade their spouses to 


52 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


return to their lawful homes and domestic felicity, 
some fifteen and eighteen miles for most, and a large 
part over occasional quicksands; but, as we never 
heard of mishap, we trust they all arrived safely at 
their destination, and did full reparation for previous 
anguish. The next day “ Endymion ” gave a dance, 
where were gathered together all that Simon’s Town 
contained ; and, in consequence of the constant 
rotatory motion, gloves and shoes began to show 
distress, and special messengers for more of the 
necessary articles were despatched to Cape Town, 
the only prevailing idea being that it was perfectly 
necessary for existence to dance day and night, and 
ably they carried it out. As soon as one ship stopped, 
the band having no more available lungs left, another 
ship took it up, and any spare time was appropriated 
by Mrs. Dowell ; and as there were seven or eight 
weeks in front of us — over more than six thousand 
miles of stormy ocean to recruit — we might make the 
most of it while it lasted, and we saw no hangers 
back ; old and young, married and single, were all 
infected alike. 

Thursday was to be our day of departure ; but as 
the English mail was overdue, we waited, expect- 
ing a telegram from Cape Town to say that she 
was in sight every moment. However, instead 


simon’s bay, cape of good hope. 53 

of sailing, the commodore’s garden was filled 
with bronze boots and silk stockings standing to 
their mallets ; which latter feminine appendage, 
we humbly suggest, has largely contributed to the 
undeviating success which has attended that game, 
so demonstrative of the human passions, which is 
now universal in Anglo-Saxon countries ; and in the 
evening the commodore’s house was taken possession 
of by all those still eager to dance and intending to 
make the most of the non-arrival of the mail. 

The next morning (Friday) still no mail. The 
Admiral determined to sail the following morning with 
or without, and we regret to say we lost j the cheerful 
company of the Chevalier, who had to resume his 
duties at Cape Town, owing to the arrival of the 
Portuguese corvette (“ Infante Don Juan”). Many 
and anxious glasses were directed all day to the 
flagstaff at Simon’s Town over Anderson’s store, 
where they hoist a signal directly the mail is 
telegraphed from the lighthouse at Cape Town, and 
as it was the last afternoon, the Admiral, in virtue 
of precedence, sent round to collect all that could 
be found for a farewell on board the “ Liverpool,” 
where dancing went on notwithstanding the con- 
viviality being sustained by jerky bursts of mirth, 
which betokened a mind depressed, and the gloom 
of friendship about to be severed hung about most, 


54 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


we won’t say all, because some we think are born 
with a total absence of electricity. Imagine a 
young and lovely creature, whom you have fancied 
yourself desperately attached to, as her hand hangs 
perhaps a little longer than usual in yours, and 
you take the privilege of a traveller’s farewell, says, 
“Ob, I hope you’ll look nice as you go out in the 
morning;” and we miserable mortals, with hearts 
in twain at the thought of it, could hardly appreciate 
such levity, and with six or seven weeks of about 
as much discomfort as man can suffer in the way 
of running before constant westerly gales, hail, 
snow, and a probable iceberg, the cup of bitterness 
was filled to such an extent that some succumbed 
for the moment ; in fact, our Flying Lillywhite 
having landed with what he lo-ved most for the time 
on earth, and escorted her and her chaperone to the 
portal of their mansion, under a load of parasols, 
shawls, but no fan — on the strength of an expected 
tea, and a last evening in company with a green-and- 
white frock — was wished a very affectionate good-bye, 
and the door gently closed, leaving him on the 
cold side, where emotion would have been out of 
place. However, he still retained sufficient outward 
composure to make his way to the club, and try 
the consolation of B. and S., the first articulate 
sound that was heard afterwards being, “ 0 , my 


SIMON’S BAY, CAPE OP GOOD HOPE. 55 

gad, my heart !” — a not solitary instance of the sus- 
ceptibility of the heart of the British naval officer. 
We might mention that several times since we have 
had occasion to feel deeply for this officer, and 
consider evening service on the Sabbath to be 
always dangerous navigation, and especially so at 
Newtown, Tasmania, where the perils are many and 
the landmarks nil. 

In the evening, the commodore entertained His 
Excellency, Sir Philip Wodeliouse and staff, who had 
come down to accompany the “ Elyer’s,” or, as the 
“ Rattlesnake’s,” in their wrath at having their com- 
missariat prices run up by the arrival of our little 
squadron, full of money, after long sea cruises, and 
prepared to spend as much as possible, and then go 
to sea again, and make more, christened us, while 
they were undergoing low diet : the Hungry Six, 
and memorialized the said half-dozen by employing 
their local Tennyson for their especial benefit, who 
brought forth a series of verses, bitter in invectives, 
and withering in sarcasm, we believe, though we 
regret to say they have not forwarded us a copy, but 
an idea of the substance may be formed from the 
last lines : — • 

They clapped then’ hands, and cheered like bricks, 

And said, “ There goes the Hungry Six !” 


56 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


We only trust such rising talent may come in its 
time under the special notice of the Prime Minister, 
and be rewarded according to its merits. 

8 a.m., Saturday, Oct. 16, saw us standing out of 
Simon’s Bay, and the focus of many glasses was a 
green-and-white frock sitting on the doorstep of a 
neighbouring verandah, and thinking, we hope, how 
nice we looked. But, alas ! it was to last but a few 
minutes ; for we had hardly gone half a mile when a 
thick fog and misty rain came on, and entirely shut 
out the emerald rosettes, which disappeared then 
and for ever from the history of Hungry Six, and 
the “ Rattlesnake ” appeared out of the fog with the 
Governor’s flag at the main, and many ladies to do 
farewell to the squadron in spite of the inclemency 
of the weather, for which act of self-devotion we 
return our very grateful thanks. The squadron, in 
close column of line ahead, wore in succession to 
meet the “ Rattlesnake,” the Admiral saluting His 
Excellency, in passing, with fifteen guns ; we then bore 
up, and ran out into False Bay, with “ Rattlesnake ” 
in company, where we found a fresh south-westerly 
wind, consequently a dead heat down the Bay, which, 
as our friends the “ Rattlesnakes ” were rather proud 
of their ship’s sailing capabilities, was a grand oppor- 
tunity for them to try rate of sailing ; so, as the 


CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 


Admiral asked the Governor if he felt inclined, which 
he did, away went the squadron and the Cape clipper 
(“ Rattlesnake”), when we expected in about an hour to 
have to make use of a powerful glass to see her. How- 
ever, at 3 p.m., having chased for an hour and a-half, 
the three flyers, “ Scylla,” “ Barrosa,” and “ Liffey,” 
being respectively one, two, three, with “ Rattle- 
snake ” an indifferent fourth, the commodore diploma- 
tically made a signal to say he thought it time to 
return, and putting his helm up, passed, without 
many inches to spare, between the “ Barrosa’s ” flying 
boom end, and “ Liverpool’s ” stern, hands and hand- 
kerchiefs were freely waved ; and as she rushed by 
before a strong breeze to her Cape home, and we 
stood on our ocean pilgrimage, the Admiral made the 
signal : “ Farewell to you and good ladies to which 
“ Rattlesnake ” replied : “ Wish you pleasant voyage,” 
which was a tacit severance of the last tie between 
the squadron and the Cape Colony, before leaving 
which we take this opportunity of expressing the 
sincere thanks of the squadron, one and all, for the 
unvarying hospitality and kindness shown by the 
commodore and Mrs. Dowell to the officers of the 
Flying Squadron during their stay at Simon’s Bay. 


58 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 

In the afternoon we picked up “ Phoebe,” who had 
relieved the “ Liffey ” at Table Bay, Captain Johnson, 
of the “ Liffey,” having, we regret to say, been com- 
pelled to invalid at his surgeon’s recommendation 
— Captain Gibson taking “Liffey," Captain Hand 
“ Barrosa,” and Lieutenant Bosanquet acting-com- 
mander of “ Endymion.” The wind being south- 
easterly, the squadron stood close-hauled to the 
south-west, in order to make as much southing as 
possible, to get clear of south-easters and the Agulhas 
current ; and on the night of the 18tli, in 38° 30' S., 
got a north-westerly wind, and carried strong breezes, 
veering from north-west to south, until the 21st, in 
longitude 30° E., when the wind veered round to the 
south-east, and remained light and variable, with 
thick fogs the latter part of the time, until the 31st, 
when, in 45° S. and 52° E., a breeze sprang up from 
the north-west, which soon carried us along ten and 
eleven knots, and we congratulated ourselves that we 
had got the brae west winds at last ; but, alas ! we 
were doomed to be disappointed, as, on the morning of 
the 4th of November, 45° S. 68° E., strong south- 
easterly winds, and fresh gales with wet fogs, made 


CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 


59 


their appearance, and continued until noon of the 7th, 
at which time we were going two knots to north- 
westerly wind, and the next day eleven and twelve 
knots to strong gales, with heavy squalls of wind 
hail, and snow ; thermometer down to 83° — a fall of’ 
thirty-four degrees since the day we left the Cape ; 
the brae west winds at last with a vengeance, and 
which lasted almost without intermission from the 
7th, in longitude 72° E., until the 21st, in longitude 
138° E., making short work of three thousand miles. 
Between noon of the 7th and noon of the 14th the 
squadron neared their port by a distance of seventeen 
hundred and one miles, seventy-seven miles of which 
have to be taken off in consequence of sailing on a 
great circle, the apex of which was in 46° 26' S. 
Ill 0 37' E., leaving the real ground gone over by the 
squadron in a week to be sixteen hundred and twenty- 
four miles, or an average of 9’7 knots per hour. 

On the forenoon of the 9th, running under double- 
reefed topsails, whole foresail, and single-reefed main- 
sail, making twelve and thirteen knots an hour, we 
quote the “ Liverpool’s ” signal log : “Daylight ; ob- 

“ served ‘ Phoebe’s ’ quarter boats to be washed away, 

“ and ‘ Barrosa’s ’ crossjack yard gone. 7 a.m., 

“ £ Scylla ’ split mainsail, and at 8 a.m., carried away 
“ crossjack yard. 9 a.m., ‘ Endymion ’ split jib, 


60 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ and ‘ Liffey,’ raaintopsail. 10 a.m., ‘ Liverpool,’ split 
“ mainsail and maintopsail. 10.50, ‘ Phoebe,’ split 
“ maintopsail, ‘ Endymion ’ and £ Liffey,’ split fore.” 
We only give this as a specimen of the inevitable 
effect of constant competitive exercise aloft on the 
gear and sails of an ocean squadron. We regret to 
say, in the afternoon, that the Admiral met with an 
accident that might have been more serious in its 
effect, by his fetching away in a heavy roll, and 
falling on the back of his head, cut a deep wound 
in the back of the scalp, which caused him to 
wander in the head for some little time, and in the 
middle of which a heavy sea struck the quarter of 
the “Liverpool,” as though somebody had thrown a 
huge rock at it, and drove the whole quarter gallery 
in, bodily flooding the Admiral’s cabin and all the 
after-part of the ship ; so he had to be shifted into 
the captain’s cabin, and very soon began to mend. 
In the afternoon, the “ Scylla ” had to run ahead, as 
she was unable to shorten any more sail, for fear of 
being swamped, for, as her log relates — “ 2.50 p.m. 
“ Heavy sea struck ship, carrying away starboard 
“ quarter-deck hammock netting, filled port-cutter, 
“ carrying away the foremost fall, life-lines, and 
“ bent davit; cut away boat to prevent ports being 
“ stove.” As the sea struck the ship on the star- 


CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 


61 


board side, and filled the port-cutter, the officers 
and men that were on deck were obliged to be 
undergoing a salt douche during its passage, one 
of whom computed that he must have been under 
water about three minutes, holding on to a deck- 
bolt. We daresay it seemed long, as it is not an 
enviable position, but it was a mercy that she lost 
nobody washed overboard. The cutter, which she 
cut away, falling into the water keel down, floated 
away like a cork, was just seen through the haze 
by the “ Liverpool,” who hauled up a little to 
see if there was anybody in her, and as there for- 
tunately was not, continued her way ; though if 
there had been, it would have been almost an impos- 
sibility to save them, as a loaded boat could not 
have lived in such a boiling sea, and the only 
chance would have been to try and pick them 
up with the ship; and so the “Scylla” left her 
squadron, and was seen no more until meeting on 
the rendezvous off Cape Otway, on the forenoon of 
the 25th. The following day, 10th, “ Endymion ” 
parted company, and appeared no more until we 
had been two days at Melbourne, the remaining 
portion progressing satisfactorily until the 21st. 
When due south of Adelaide, and 271 miles off 
Cape Otway, the wind veered round to the south- 


62 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


eastward, and standing to the northward on a wind 
at 7 a.m., on the morning of the 23rd, land was 
reported on the bow, and as those who, for the first 
time, looked on the great continent of Australia, few 
could suppress a feeling of interest as he thought of 
the many thousands of his fellow countrymen leaving 
their native land, home, mother, and all nearest and 
dearest, for fear of starvation, fear of love and law, and 
love of enterprise ; but all with one universal object — 
gold — had gone to the masthead, at the same cry of 
land, to be the first to see the country of their hopes 
and dreams in the past, and their visions of the 
tranquil prospect in the future ; of a home deep in 
the recesses of an Australian forest, without a sound 
to break the almost unearthly stillness, except the 
prattling children and never-silent locust, and all 
raised by the one much-sought-after nugget they could 
not fail to find. A fair picture — the one successful 
digger, resting, in the autumn of his life, on the 
results of luck, and the labour of his brow ; on the 
reverse side, the thousands of men, broken in heart, 
spirit, and health, dragging their starving bodies into 
an early grave, aliens in a foreign land ; as those who 
went aloft expected probably to see a land flowing 
with milk and honey, and glittering with ungathered 
gold, but instead, as we stood close in, a bold, rugged, 


CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 63 

and desolate-looking coast, without a sign of human 
occupation, and, for all the eye could make out, an 
undiscovered land ; so we must admit, the first glimpse 
was gloomy. The melancholy part of the coast that 
we had the misfortune to hit on being Cape Bridg- 
water, half-way between the capitals of Victoria and 
South Australia. 

On the 23rd, beating against strong easterly 
breezes, and the next day, the wind going round to 
the north-westward, the squadron stood along the 
coast for Cape Otway, the weather looking threat- 
ening at sunset, with a very low glass, 29' 15, the 
light on the Cape being made out about a quarter to 
eight, the wind light from westward, and the ships 
running under all sail from three to four knots ; at 
half-past eight, Cape Otway being then north about 
fifteen miles, a heavy squall from the southward 
struck the squadron, making a dead lee-shore of 
Cape Otway ; took in stunsails, third reef of top- 
sails, reef of courses, and got up steam full speed ; 
but happily were not required to use it, as the wind 
worked round to the south-westward, and enabled us 
to clear the land, close-hauled to a south-westerly 
gale, with very heavy squalls of wind and rain, so 
we stood off the land for the night. The next day it 
was still blowing strong from southward, with thick 


64 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


weather, we remained beating about between King 
Island and the mainland, and in the forenoon passed 
the clipper ship, “ Stockbridge,” close-hauled to the 
southward, with a sort of selfish satisfaction at seeing 
somebody in the same plight as ourselves, and also, 
evidently afraid of trying a closer acquaintance with 
the land. In the afternoon, the “ Scylla ” rejoined; it 
remained blowing hard all night. The next morning, 
Friday, 26th November, there not being much change 
for the better, and getting rather desperate, the 
squadron stood to the northward, to have the satis- 
faction of seeing the haven, if possible, where we 
would be, and also with a weak sort of hope that, as 
things were then at their worst, they might mend ; 
which theory proved correct, for the weather cleared a 
little as we closed the land, when the unsuspecting 
“ Scylla ” got a hint not to part company again, by 
being sent to the rendezvous to wait there for the 
“ Endymion,” which, as she was fully aware of its 
blowing a gale of wind in those parts, and every day 
outside being one out of her ten in, afforded her 
doubtless unmitigated satisfaction, and at 9 a.m. Port 
Philip Heads were sighted, and half-an-hour after- 
wards the squadron was hove-to under double-reefed 
topsails off the entrance, when a schooner-load of 
pilots made their appearance and boarded the various 




CAPE OF GOOD HOPE TO MELBOURNE. 65 

ships, conveying the pleasing intelligence that we 
must wait outside until the first of the flood, which 
performance, according to ordinary precept, would 
not take place until 2 p.m., as, for a vessel of heavy 
draught, the passage between two rocks, with re- 
spectively 18 and 15 feet of water, is narrow and 
dangerous, with an ebb-tide, and whilst waiting for 
the flood, we had the satisfaction of seeing the “ Great 
Britain” come out under steam, homeward-bound 
with about three hundred passengers, and immediately 
setting a cloud of canvas to a fresh westerly gale, was 
soon bowling home her fifteen or sixteen knots. At 
1.50 p.m., the squadron wore and bore up for the 
Heads — 2.10 running between them, and at 2.30 the 
“ Liverpool ” hove-to off the Quarantine Ground for 
the health officer, the other ships running by, to 
rendezvous again the further end of the channel ; and 
while she was hove-to, a steamer coming out from 
Melbourne hailed to say she had a telegraph for her, 
which, as it was blowing fresh, with a very nasty 
bubbling sea, as the medical gentleman discovered 
to his cost, she did not like to trust her boat ; and 
during this time wild ideas, such as outbreak in 
New Zealand, etc., which could only emanate from 
people six weeks at sea, had been freely circulated, 
when the captain of the steamer, apparently tired of 


n 


G6 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


inaction, went close alongside, and passed it in with- 
out touching the ship, where it was received by an 
eager crowd, and discovered to be an intimation from 
the beef contractor to the paymaster concerning the 
price of bullocks, which circumstance, small in itself, 
will show perhaps better than a volume of literature, 
the secret to which the great success of Melbourne is 
due : that being the pushingness of its inhabitants, 
if we may be allowed to use the expression, and use it 
in any but a detrimental manner, but with a sincere 
wish that they may go on pushing until Victoria, as 
a country, and Melbourne, as its capital, stands as 
unrivalled in the southern hemisphere, as it was in 
the welcome of Australia to the Flying Squadron of 
1869 ; and at 4 p.m. the “ Liverpool,” having secured 
pratique for the squadron, rejoined at the end of the 
South Channel, where the pilotage may be said to be 
over, and from there to the anchorage was twenty-nine 
miles of plain sailing, which was done by the squadron 
in two hours and twenty-five minutes, rather over 
eleven and a-half knots an hour, under double-reefed 
topsails and courses, and the anchor dropped off 
Williamstown Pier at 6.25 p.m., said by the pilots to 
be the fastest known run from the Heads up. The 
Victorian line-of-battle ship, “ Nelson,” exchanged 
salutes with the Admiral, and immediately after 


iiobson’s bay, Melbourne. G7 

anchoring, Captain Payne, of the “Nelson,” and Cap- 
tain Richardson, A.D.C. to Major-General Sir Trevor 
Chute, K.C.B., went on board the “Liverpool,” to 
convey congratulations to the Admiral, and shortly 
afterwards, the most important gentleman of all, the 
man with letters, made his appearance, unmistakably 
from Cork, and then excitement waxed strong ; as, on 
account of missing the mail at the Cape, news was 
scarce, and some who were on the tiptoe of excite- 
ment one minute, ten minutes afterwards were giving- 
vent to a very audible growl, because the right one 
was not there, and it would probably be an indefinite 
period before he would be able to find out that 
she was only fickle, fair, and false. These remarks 
are, of course, only intended for the bachelors, as we 
must say that what we saw of the Plying Squadron’s 
wives, the way they corresponded with their lords, 
and the repeated assurances of faithful love, might be 
taken as a not indifferent pattern for the domestic 
felicity of the present day. Whether it is that dis- 
tance lends enchantment, or that absence maketh the 
heart grow fonder, the result is equally commendable, 
and satisfactory to the interested parties ; and as we 
have strayed away on the subject of a letter bag, we 
will return to the squadron, the members of which 
retired very early to their beds, tired with beating 


68 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


about in the bad weather outside, and also anxious 
to start fair on the morrow, having heard of the 
preparations which Melbourne had made to welcome 
the squadron from the mother country. 

The next day, Saturday, Nov. 27th, the Governor’s 
A.D.C., Mr. Roth well, R.A., went on board the 
“ Liverpool ” early in the forenoon, to convey His 
Excellency’s welcome to the Admiral on his arrival 
in his kingdom, and also an invitation to his house 
at Toorak, about four miles from the town, and 
situated in such a manner that, from the top, you 
not only get a beautiful view of the Bay, but also of 
the town of Melbourne, with its surrounding suburbs 
of Brighton, St. Kilda, Collingwood, Richmond, South 
Yarra, Sandridge, etc., so that the Governor has a 
bird’s-eye view of his entire capital, the now enormous 
extent of which, with its environs, appears almost 
marvellous, when it is considered that the first settler 
only pitched his tent on the ground where, we venture 
to think, the finest city in the southern hemisphere 
now stands, thirty-four years before, and mainly 
caused by those enterprising and reckless spirits 
who made their way there during the gold rush, 
after the discovery in 1851. Invitations commenced 
to pour in apace. Picnics, balls, croquet, dinners, 
tea-fights, etc., free passes not only from Williams- 


HOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE. 


G9 


town, off where the fleet were lying, to Melbourne, 
but also over the whole colony of Victoria ; in fact, 
everything that Melbourne could do to make the 
welcome right royal was done, not only by in- 
dividuality, but one and all testified to their pleasure 
in welcoming a squadron so nearly associated with 
their still mucli-loved home. The Mayor (Mr. S. 
Amess) and Corporation went off to welcome the 
Admiral, and shortly afterwards the general and 
staff, including Major Baker ; in the afternoon the 
Admiral landed at the Sandridge Pier, where the 
Governor’s carriage and a great crowd were assembled 
— one to take him to pay his respects to His Excel- 
lency, and the other to look at the first British 
Admiral that had landed in Australia. Saturday after- 
noon being devoted by the Melbourne Hurlingham 
Club to pigeon shooting — an ardent supporter of which 
is the Governor. The Melbourne Club, the members 
of which were among the first to offer their hospitality 
to the squadron, was soon filled with officers, who, 
from the kindness of many of the members, were soon 
rapidly making early acquaintances — an affair of much 
moment in these racing times of fifty days’ sea and 
ten harbour, and we venture to express a wish that 
some of the Conservative tendencied old gentlemen, 
who stagnate the progression of most of the London 


70 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


clubs, would take a leaf from the book of one of our 
progressive colonies, as regards the comfort of those 
establishments. 

Sunday, 28th, was a lovely Australian summer’s 
day, and naval uniforms and gay frocks were plenti- 
fully sprinkled about the surrounding churches, 
especially towards the end of the evening service, by 
which time they appeared to have increased their 
acquaintance largely, and on Sunday night the missing 
sheep (“ Endymion ” and “ Scylla ”) returned to their 
fold, all ready to commence the festivities which 
began on Monday night with a ball at Toorak, given 
by His Excellency and Lady Manners Sutton, where 
was collected all the Victorian beauty that could be 
gathered together, and we must regret much that a 
recent bereavement should have prevented the Spring- 
field belle from giving us the pleasure of her company. 
Mr. Manners Sutton and Mr. Rothwell, A.D.C., were 
inexhaustible in their endeavours at procuring partners, 
and with so much success that the British naval officer 
was introduced one minute, card full the next, and the 
third walking in the garden on a lovely summer’s 
night, on the best of terms with yourself and partner, 
and with just sufficient light diffused from a series of 
Chinese lanterns suspended by the rose trees and 
shrubs, to enable you to see the path, and entirely 
conceal your nearest neighbour in shadow. We con- 



GOVERNMENT HOUSE TOORAK MELBOURNE 





HOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE. 


71 


gratulate Lady Manners Sutton on a triumph of effect, 
and hope that she was as much pleased as her guests, 
at the result of her labours, which were unexception- 
able, though we are inclined to think heavy damage was 
done that night, which would probably have been far 
heavier but for firmness in high quarters, concerning a 
kitchen garden key, and many friendships were founded 
then, and built up afterwards, which a lifetime will 
not destroy ; and we must take this opportunity of 
apologizing to our much-esteemed friend, the Bishop 
of Toorak, as, after the ball was over, the Bishop 
looked huffed, and on tender inquiries being made 
concerning his lordship’s health, which was considered 
by him to be still unimpaired, temper only a little 
short, or, as he forcibly stated it, that the black coat 
was nowhere, and the blue and epaulettes had it all 
their own way. We felt deeply for our esteemed 
friend, but are certain when he looked at it next 
morning, through the invigorating medium of the pure 
morning air, and cold douche, he would have the grim 
satisfaction of knowing, that in a short eight days 
there would be an entire absence of the blue-and-gold, 
and the more sombre and ecclesiastical colour would 
have it once again all its own way ; and this idea, we 
fancy, forcibly impressed his lordship, as next morning 
he appeared more cheerful and with spirits lightened 
at the prospect of sure and certain revenge. We had 


72 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the pleasure of meeting the young lady, for the first 
time, at the same ball, who when lately a noble 
lord, a passenger in one of Her Majesty’s ships, 

said to her : “I suppose, Miss , you are 

“not accustomed to dance with lords out here?” 

“ No, Lord ; but we are accustomed to dance 

“ with gentlemen ! Thank you : I think I see my 

“mother;” and with a haughty inclination of the 
head, the colonial young lady left so pleasing a 
specimen of the British aristocracy to make the best 
of it, and not only Victoria, but Australia, will take 
care that it is not forgotten against that gentleman, 
who we should recommend to omit that continent in 
the Southern Ocean, during his nest circumnavigating 
trip. 

Every day hundreds flocked off on board the ships, 
and we hope they enjoyed the trip, as they appeared 
to, their spirits, while on board, being always of the 
most exuberant order. 

“ ‘Melbourne Punch,’ December 2, 1869. 

“AFTER THE ‘at home’ AT TOORAK. 

“ The following lines were picked up in Collins- 
“ street, and brought to our office : — 

“ ‘ Dear, Clara, — 

“ ‘ The “ At Home ” at Toorak on Monday was 
“ a decided success, and the officers are such delightful 


HOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE. 


73 


<{ fellows, and such flirts ! Captain Long and Captain 
“ O’Hara are so distingue- looking — almost as much so 
“ as that darling Duke of Edinburgh was ; but the 
“ liandsomest man in the room (mind, en confidence ) 
“ was Lieutenant Jenkins, who will have an immense 
“ fortune when his cousin dies. He paid me such 
“ attention, danced three times running with me, and 
“ oh ! he is such a lovely waltzer, and says such nice 
“ things ! He told me he liked the Melbourne girls 
“ better than any other girls he had ever met, and he 
“ has travelled all over the world. His Christian 
“ name is Montague. I was just flattering myself I 
“ had made an awful impression, when that hateful 
“ Mrs. Blab came up, and said, ‘ Oh, Laura, dear ! 
“ how well your dress washes ; only a little faded ; 
“ and I see you’ve turned all your old trimmings. I 
“ wash I could get servants to wash as well as you do. 
“ Good-bye, dear !’ I could not help crying — the 
“ nasty, spiteful creature ! Lieutenant Jenkins said, 
“ very kindly, ‘ Don’t mind — she’s jealous.’ I shall 
“ never forget it. I can’t make out what men see in 
“ her. She is a flirt, which is no credit to any married 
“ woman, and she looks like a ghost. I think she 
“ must be a spiritualist — one of a low sphere. Any 
“ married woman can get the name of being pretty if 
“ she but consents to spend three parts of her time 


i 


•74 


THE FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ ‘ doing the block ’ with a parcel of boys. They say 
vt the furniture is mortgaged. Lucy and Charlotte 
<c Mortimer were there in their old dresses, the ones 
“ they wore at the last Governor’s ball, and so were 
** lots of others I could name. Everybody is not so 
“ dishonest as Mrs. B ; she never pays for hers. 

“ Your affectionate friend, 

“ Laura.” 

On Tuesday evening the members of the Melbourne 
Club gave a dinner to the Admiral and officers of 
the squadron, at which His Excellency Sir Henry 
Manners Sutton was present, and we had to regret 
being deprived of seeing Mr. Bright in the chair as 
President of the Club, owing to a recent bereave- 
ment ; his place, however, was ably filled by the 
Vice-President. The dinner, of course, was good, 
and passed off better by being full of the best of 
feelings and good cheer. 

Wednesday there was a state performance at the 
Theatre, which was largely attended. The Governor, 
Lady, and Miss Manners Sutton, Sir Trevor and 
Lady Chute, and the Admiral, with their respective 
suites, occupying the centre box, after a short 
appearance at which, there was a general exodus by 
those whom the weighty cares of office forced not to 


iioeson’s bay, Melbourne. 


75 


remain, to the more genial company of Mrs. Fellowes’ 
ball at South Yarra, given to the officers of the Flying 
Squadron, for which, as well as the great hospitality 
shown by the host and hostess to their guests, we 
shall be for ever grateful. But, with all due respect 
to Mrs. F., we think that if a certain bench, under 
a certain shaded tree, had been removed before 
the festival began, a few of our circumnavigating 
colleagues would still have been free to woo and 
win ; but, alas ! the troth, for better or for worse, 
was pledged beneath that fatal tree ; and, as our 
hostess belonged to the Anti-Chinese Lighting Asso- 
ciation, no other light save the stars of the firmament 
— and they apparently mournfully — shed their slender 
rays through the gloom of night so sweet, o'er which 
such awful morn arise. 

The fragrance of a garden, notwithstanding the 
hour, in the full bloom of an Australian summer, 
with a partner equally sensible of its seductions ; 
to say under those circumstances only what you 
would not object repeating to the paternal parent 
after the following matutinal meal, would be less 
than human or more than angelic; and it was with 
very genuine regret that we noticed the squadron 
were universally cast in very human mould; so the 
slaughter was terrific, on one side, certainly ; and 


76 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


we must consider the outdoor arrangements a model 
of the consummate generalship of our worthy hostess 
to clip the “ Flyer’s ” wings. 

On Thursday morning the match began between 
the Squadron and the Melbourne Club, of which we 
give the extract of the Melbourne paper. 

“ THE SQUADRON V. THE M.C.C. 

“ This match, between the officers of the squadron 
“ and a team of our best amateur cricketers, proved a 
“ very brilliant affair. There was a large gathering of 
“ the public on the ground, at one time not less than 
“ 3,000, and the marquee on the enclosure was well 
“ filled with ladies, whose presence and beauty gave 
“ additional picturesqueness to the handsome ground 
“ the whole day. His Excellency the Governor, with 
“ Lady Manners Sutton and family, arrived about three 
“ o’clock in the afternoon, and stayed several hours 
“ on the ground. Admiral Hornby, with Captain 
“ Hopkins, of the ‘ Liverpool,’ and Captain Gibson, 
“ of the ‘ Liflfey,’ were present during nearly the 
“ whole of the match, in which they, as well as all 
“ the naval officers on the ground, appeared to take 
“ considerable interest. The excellent band of the 
“ £ Liffey ’ discoursed sweet and gentle music, which 
“ was extremely pleasant to the ear, and a remark- 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


77 


able contrast to the brass bands often stationed 
“ on the ground, wh.ose clamour so near to the 
“ pavilion is occasionally so loud as to compel spec- 
“ tators to wish them a little further away. The 
“ M.C.C. captain (Mr. Handheld) waived the right 
“ to play professionals — an act of grace on their part, 
“ but certainly not more than the strongest club in 
“ the Southern Hemisphere ought to have done to a 
“ team of sailors, who could not, under the circum- 
“ stances, be otherwise than out of practice. Lieute- 
“ nant Wright, captain of the ofhcers, sent in Rich- 
“ mond and Bampton hrst, but they were soon dis- 
<e posed of by Allen and Reid, two of the best bowlers 
“ in the colony. The bats who followed (Assist- 
“ ant-Paymaster Pearce and Lieutenant Pearson) 
“ played well, more especially the former, who scored 
“ 40 runs before he was disposed of. Pearson scored 
“ 14 ; but only one of the other players, Lieutenant 
“ Bruce, who made 13 (not out) succeeded in reaching 
“ double figures. The whole of the wickets fell for 
“ 95 runs, a very good score, considering the bowling 
“ they had to contend against. After the Melbourne 
“ team had been at the wickets a short time, it 
<£ became evident that the officers were weak in the 
“ bowling department, and four or five of the players 
“ succeeded in making large scores, Cameron getting 


78 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ 23, Barton 11, Allan 55, Major Baker 26, Reid 39, 
“ and Fraser 1 1. The total scoring was as follows : — 


“THE SQUADRON TEAM. 

Midshipman Richmond (“ Phoebe ”), b Allen ... ... ... 2 

Midshipman Bampton (“ Liffey ”), lbwb Reid 2 

Assistant-Paymaster Pearce (“ Liffey ”), c Barton, b Wilson ... 40 

Lieutenant Pearson (“ Scylla ”), b Reid ... 14 

Lieutenant Wright (“ Scy 11a ”), b Allen ... ... 5 

Midshipman Protliero (“ Liffey”), b Reid ... ... ... 2 

Lieutenant Eden (“ Endymion”), b Allen ... ... 1 

Lieutenant Henderson (“ Phoebe ”), b Reid ... ... ... 1 

Midshipman Henderson (“ Endymion ”), b Reid ... ... ... 0 

Lieutenant Bruce (“ Liverpool ”), not out ... .... 13 

Midshipman Sparkes (“ Liffey ”), b Reid ... 1 

Byes, 11 ; leg byes, 2 ; no ball, 1 ... 14 

Total ... ... ... ... ... ... 95 

“ MELBOURNE. 

Wilson, st Eden, b Pearson 1 

A’Beckett, c Lieutenant Henderson, b Pearson 4 

Cameron, c Wright, b Pearson ... ... .. 23 

Barton, lbwb Pearson ... ... 11 

Allan, c Lieutenant Henderson, b Wright 55 

Baker, b Pearson 26 

C. Reid, lbwb Pearson 39 

Fraser, b Pearson 11 

T. F. Hamilton, run out 0 

Handheld, not out 8 

Cavanah, b Brompton 3 

Byes, 7 ; leg byes, 3 ; wides, 9 ; no balls, 5 24 

Total 205 


“ The match was won by Melbourne, with 110 runs 
“ to spare. 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


79 


“ After the naval men had been disposed of, the 
“ company adjourned to lunch, which had been pro- 
“ vided in the Pavilion in particularly handsome style. 
“ Full justice was done to the tempting viands, and 
“ the usual loyal and complimentary toasts were duly 
“ honoured and responded to, and the hospitality of 
“ the Melbourne Club duly acknowledged. Altogether, 
“ this match was a highly agreeable one to all parties 
“ concerned, and the occasion will live long in the 
“ recollection of Victorian cricketers as a day of more 
“ than ordinary enjoyment.” 

We are certainly very much indebted to Mr. Hand- 
held, the secretary of the club, for their courtesy in 
leaving professionals out, and also for his exertions in 
every way to add to the conviviality and good feeling 
of the day, which was, as the Melbourne paper says, 
one of extreme enjoyment, and marred by nothing 
unpleasant, if we may accept the thoughtfulness of the 
club in having their two professional bowlers (Mullagh 
and Cousens, of aboriginal fame) to bowl for the 
benefit of the squadron before the real fight began, 
for which we were extremely grateful, more especially 
as, after a very limited number of balls from those 
gentlemen, we were quite satisfied as to their power in 
that line, and rather pleased to retire with a somewhat 
broken finger and rather dislocated shin-bone, which 


so 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


we had to patch up before the evening, in order to 
appear fit at the ball given that night by the Private 
Assembly Committee, in their rooms at Prahran, at 
which the Governor and Admiral were present, and 
which went off with all eclat, the only thing we heard 
regretted being no outside recreation, as the garden 
programme had been left out ; but, like the boy and 
the plums, we expect they were better without. 

Friday, December 3rd. — On the strength of the 
following letter to the Admiral, for which an Aus- 
tralian wranglership might be advantageously disposed 
of : — 

“ To Rear-Admiral G. T. Hornby, etc., etc., etc. 

“ Sir, — 

“ A lot of boys in the schools about Melbourne 
“ would like to have a chance of seeing the ships of 
“ the Flying Squadron, and as we have no chance of 
“ doing so without a holiday, would you kindly try 
“ and get a general school holiday on Friday next. 
“ VVe are sure no master would refuse it if asked 
“ for by you in one of the papers, or through the 
“ Governor. 

“ Yours respectfully, 

“ Schoolboys. 

“ November 30, 1869.” 

This distinguished specimen of the rising diplomacy 


HOBSON S BAY, MELBOURNE 


81 


of Melbourne was eminently successful, and two ships 
were set apart for the benefit of the boys, who were 
regaled with biscuit, tea, lime juice, and other deli- 
cacies, provided by Her Majesty ; and the only people 
who appeared not to altogether approve of the 
arrangement being the first lieutenants, who feebly 
remonstrated at the destruction of paint work. We 
hardly know how the refreshments will be accounted 
for in the next estimates, but fully expect that it 
will be taken out of the squadron somehow. 

This was also an important day in the squadron 
annals, as it was set apart by Mr. Amess (the Mayor) 
for his picnic at Fern Tree Gully, about twenty-four 
miles out of the town, fifteen of which was over a deci- 
dedly bad road, and the rest being a forest track only, 
an early start was unavoidable. So at 7 a.m. punc- 
tually our worthy host had between seventy and 
eighty carriages assembled at the Town Hall to convey 
his guests to the promised land, and by that time naval 
officers and their indispensable assistants on shore, 
the ladies, came pouring in, and with an alacrity 
worthy of so great a corporation, and were hurriedly 
told off, two naval officers and two young women 
being the complement for each shay, and rapidly 
they were filled and driven off to encounter together 
the perils of an Australian forest road. We hope that 


K 


82 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the young ladies had no occasion to complain of the 
backwardness of the Flyers ; as far as we saw, we 
should say not ; and as uniform was, unfortunately 
for the clothes, a compulsory addition to the other 
delights, there was no difficulty in recognising the 
Lotharios. First, the sedate parson, holding his 
hands rigidly in front through the town, as became 
the church ; then the stout engineer, of hitherto 
unimpeachable character and unblemished reputation, 
corroborated by a faithful wife and loving family at 
home, looking a little abashed at first, but, we believe, 
considerably before arrival, had become on most inti- 
mate terms ; and, as for the return, it perhaps was 
lucky that so many miles separated the better half, 
and deepening twilight shaded passing events. Lastly 
came the gushing ones, regardless of the feelings of 
the public, who soon found the back seat of a dog- 
cart, over a forest road, was a decidedly dangerous 
position, and that the partner of the said seat had 
a strong desire to land herself and charms, muslin 
included, in the centre of the road, which, being a foot 
deep in dust, would have been decidedly detrimental 
to future appearance, consequently was obliged to 
encircle the taper waist, in his humane endeavour to 
save life ; and, finding that the feminine scream, which 
is used so often, and means so little, was not taken 


iiobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


83 


advantage of, the bond of friendship tightened rapidly, 
and after the first thirteen miles, a few minutes’ halt 
was made at a bush inn (the Cheshire Cheese) for 
purposes of refreshment, and away you jolted on 
again, over a forest path, first one wheel in a hole, 
then the other, then an angle of forty-five over a 
tree ; and still thinking, as long as the muslin frock 
shared the agony, how infinitely superior it was, 
compared to running before the brae west winds ; 
and when, after another eleven miles, the haven of 
comparative rest, in the shape of the Gully, Avas 
arrived at, where tents, meat, and drink in profusion 
Avere supplied, you lifted the partner of your joys 
and troubles from her exalted position, and after a 
little recreation, under the shade of the forest fern, 
you proceeded to explore together; which meant about 
three miles laborious travelling up the Gully path, 
occasionally over your boots in mud ; but, nothing 
dismayed, you toiled on, having at stated intervals to 
drag your once white-muslined and silk-stockinged 
partner out of something very like' an Irish bog. 
The Admiral, in virtue of his exalted rank, was 
allowed a magnificent barouche, the advantage of 
which was, having twice the time to survey the 
surrounding country on the road ; and we fear his 
Avorship must have either been erroneously informed, 


84 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


either that the commander-in-chief of the squadron 
was indifferent to the charms of the fair sex, or else 
that it was the custom of people in high positions 
to lay aside the frailties of the flesh. Whichever it 
might have been, the result was similar to the 
occupants of the barouche, who had, after six weeks 
at sea together, to rely on their own resources for 
conversation, without the beneficial diversity of female 
intercourse ; and, a short time before the arrival of 

the Admiral, Major B r appeared on the ground, 

having negotiated the distance with his fire horses 
at a hand gallop all the way, and also the exciting 
knowledge to his passengers that, in the previous 
trip of that gallant officer, over the same ground, he 
had carefully landed his freight in the centre of the 
forest, the obstruction being the stump of a fallen 
tree. However, the little cherub had looked after 
his own, and the journey was safely performed ; and 
at three o’clock, after the photography of many 
groups, and the return of promiscuous wanderers 
from the Gully path, an adjournment was made to the 
luncheon tent ; and, as time was on the wing, and 
a long drive home in prospect, immediately afterwards 
the company were speeding homewards, much pleased 
with themselves, partners, the world in general, 
and also with a grateful recollection of the profuse 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


85 


hospitality of the Mayor of Melbourne to the officers 
of the Flying Squadron. 

In the evening, His Excellency entertained the 
Minister and heads of departments at dinner, to 
meet the Admiral ; and afterwards an amateur per- 
formance by the officers of the squadron was given 
at the Duke of Edinburgh Theatre, the pieces being 
The Goose with the Golden Eggs, Messrs. Innes, Wright, 
Stewart, Bignold, Dick, and Montagu ; after which 
Kenilworth, with Mr. Menzies as Good Queen Bess, 
assisted by Messrs. Michaelson Montagu, Grissell, 
Henderson, Minliinnick, Stapleton Bignold, Macaus- 
land, and Lillingston, assisted by Miss Docy Stewart 
and the “ Endymion’s ” band, which did duty in the 
orchestra, the whole performance going off admirably, 
before a crowded house. 

Saturday was the day that Melbourne had looked 
forward to with the greatest interest — more so con- 
siderably than the squadron, by whom it was partially 
reciprocated, but in a totally different manner, as it 
entailed turning one of the ten harbour days allowed 
by their lordships into a pleasant day of nautical 
manoeuvring in the Bay ; and the general cry was 
to leave the anchors where they were ; but it was 
thought otherwise, where might is right, and from the 
first dawn almost of morning, a constant stream of 


86 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


trains came pouring into Williamstown Station, bring- 
ing, we may almost say, thousands of Melbourne’s 
fairest flowers, clad in their summer array, to do a 
day’s yachting with the Flying Squadron, each ship 
having a large stage rigged between her fore and 
mainmast, capable of holding about five hundred 
people ; and, in spite of the most zealous and fasci- 
nating of lieutenants, backed up by cocked hats and 
gold lace, having been accredited to the extremely 
difficult position of putting nearly three thousand 
people, bound fur different ships, into their right 
boats, and also the more difficult business of attempt- 
ing to soothe many irritated damsels, who were 
borne away from the steps in triumph, by victorious 
midshipmen, where the touting waxed loud and fierce, 
as directly the midshipman’s Venus, or rather Juno, 
appeared. Of commanding stature, raven hair, and 
flashing eye, she was seized by several of those dis- 
tinguished officers, and almost carried bodily off. 
“ ‘ Endymion,’ yes ; these steps, please. No, a little 
farther on ; just shoving off. Quick, jump. Shove 
off!” And away went the victorious midshipman, 
carrying his fair charmer in a totally opposite direc- 
tion to where she had intended, and, actually — imper- 
tinent boy — put his fingers to his nose, in the direction 
of his discomfited rival, who, by that time, was per- 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


87 


fectly oblivious of the desired insult, in his desire to 
carry off another angel. For days before, the canvas- 
sing had been fierce for the respective ships, and we 
must congratulate the hospitable owner of Spring- 
field in his success for the “Endymion,” and also the 
gallant major, in his touting for “ Liffey,” although he 
was, both in and out of his official capacity, the pro- 
mised guest of the Admiral ; but we believe time has 
forgiven him, though he did try to seduce away one 
of the fairest of her sex from her promised allegiance 
to the “Liverpool.’’ Shortly before 11 a.m., Sir 
Trevor, Lady Chute, and staff embarked in one of the 
“ Liverpool’s ” cutters, and very soon after His Excel- 
lency, Lady, Miss Manners Sutton, and staff, accom- 
panied by Mr. and Mrs. Bright, arrived by special 
train, and embarked in the Admiral’s bargee for the 
“ Liverpool,” where His Excellency was received by 
the squadron with all the honours, yards manned, 
the “ Liverpool ” saluting the Governor’s flag at the 
main. 

Immediately afterwards, the signal was made to 
weigh ; and by half-past twelve, the squadron were 
standing out, with a light breeze from the north- 
westward, in columns of division, the Victorian line- 
of-battle ship “ Nelson,” Captain Payne, having gone 
out before, with the Members of Parliament and their 


88 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


friends, nominally, but really with about two thousand 
people ; and we believe it was almost a personal 
compliment to Captain Payne that he was allowed to 
take charge of his own ship, for which he was probably 
grateful. The squadron performed some evolutions as 
they went down the bay under sail — much to the 
danger of the good people of Melbourne, who had 
taken to the water that day, in between fifteen to 
twenty steamers of all sizes ; and it was estimated 
that there were thirty thousand people belonging to 
the city afloat, making a considerable clearance of 
the town, which was almost deserted, as young and 
old, and all that was fair and lovely, had flocked 
from the hot and dusty streets to the pleasanter 
temperature on the water, and, we hope, genial 
company of the British tar ; and had it not been 
that the Fates had otherwise ordained, mirth and 
revelry, combined with occasional bursts of seaman- 
ship, would have been the order of the day. But, 
alas ! shortly after three o’clock, a dense, black fog 
was seen moving steadily up against the wind, and in 
a few minutes the squadron and their guests (especi- 
ally the muslined ones) were taken aback with a 
southerly wind and soaking rain, and as the water 
beat the ladies off the upper deck, dancing commenced 
between them, in some places in a considerable depth 


HOBSON S HAY, MELBOURNE 


89 


of water, but that appeared to be quite a secondary 
consideration, as long as it remained below the tops 
of the boots, and happily Hessians and tassels were 
the order, and at four o’clock the weather apparently 
getting worse, the helms were put up, and a general 
run back made for the anchorage, which was safely 
reached again at a quarter past five ; and, a little after 
six, His Excellency and party left the “ Liverpool,” and 
immediately returned to Melbourne by special train, 
followed by the rest of the Admiral’s guests, con- 
sisting of the Ministry, Executive Council, Judges, 
President, Legislative Council, and Speaker of the 
Legislative Assembly, and others of the great men 
at the helm of state of Victoria, with their wives 
and families ; but the “ Liverpool’s ” example was 
not generally followed, as a large number preferred 
not returning to their paternal homes, so dancing 
and revelry were kept up on board some of Her 
Majesty’s ships to a late hour of the night. And 
so ended the first, and probably last, naval review of 
English ships in Australian waters, which Melbourne 
had looked forward to with so much anxiety, and 
which, owing to the elements, had been so total a 
failure. 

Sunday being virtually the last day out, as the 
next one was to be given up to gold digging, a large 

L 


90 


FLYING SQUADFON. 


number of ladies patronized the chaplains of the 
squadron ; but we must confess ourselves that we 
prefer not only doing our devotions on shore when 
the opportunity offers, but also seeing them do theirs 
there too, so a large number of officers patronized 
the small country church of Toorak, where they heard 
a very eloquent sermon from the Rector, a gentleman 
well known in the annals of the All England Eleven, 
and more recently in the Victorian one against them, 
in his farewell magnificent innings, before the willow 
was obliged to be put on the shelf ; as some people, 
high in episcopal power, have an idea that manly 
sports and godliness cannot go together ; but we are 
afraid that there was more than a devotional meaning 
in the large sprinkling of blue and gold about the 
suburban churches, as we saw a general pairing off 
at the door — a preconcerted arrangement, probably, 
of the previous day — and a general adjournment with 
the angel of the hour to one of the Melbourne fashions ; 
an early and sumptuous Sunday dinner, followed by 
the pleasant, yet dangerous, listlessness of the garden 
flirtation after ; the time which the elder and more 
sedate members of the family, having outlived the 
folly, devote to the recreation of Morpheus ; to the 
commander of a noble frigate in the meshes of the 
fatal passion we felt deeply ; but as he was undecided 


iiobson’s bay, Melbourne. 91 

between the individual charms of the sisterhood, 
numbers accomplished what prudence could not attain, 
yet we rejoice to say that many thousands of miles 
of blue water has dimmed the past into misty oblivion, 
and raised other longings in the future. 

In the evening, Sir Redmond Barry, late President 
of the Intercolonial Exhibition Commission, enter- 
tained the General, Admiral, and a number of the 
leading defenders of the colony, at dinner, and to some 
of his marvellous old port. 

Monday was the day that Ballarat had set apart 
for the entertainment of the squadron, so at 7 a.m., 
by the aid of Mr. Longmore (the Minister for Rail- 
ways), a special train left Melbourne, with the 
Admiral, captains, and about fifty officers, arriving at 
Ballarat shortly before ten, where they were received 
on the platform by the Mayors of Ballarat East (Mr. 
Eastwood) and Ballarat West (Mr. Cowan), together 
with a large number of gentlemen and ladies of the 
town, who manifested their pleasure by lustily cheer- 
ing the train as it entered the station. A division 
took place for breakfast, the Mayor of Ballarat West 
taking the Admiral in a break with four bays to 
Craig’s Hotel, and the Mayor of Ballarat East pre- 
siding over the other half at the George , and, as soon 
as breakfast was over, the procession, headed by the 


92 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Admiral’s team, with Mr. George Moore, in blue and 
silver uniform as Marshal, doing duty as outrider, and 
followed by a stream of carriages of all sorts and sizes, 
started for the mines, when half stopped at the Band 
and Albion’s Consort’s shaft, and the rest went on to 
the Prince of Wales’s company, No. 1 shaft — the first 
being an alluvial and the second a quartz mine — 
and after spending about two hours and a half, 
four hundred and fifty feet below the surface, digging 
violently, but finding little, although we do the 
miners the credit of believing, that they tried to show 
gold ; but the mine at the time was not flourishing ; 
so their efforts were almost fruitless, and after toiling 
up many perpendicular ladders, some eighty feet high, 
up curious shafts, holding on with the grim clutch of 
despair, with one hand to the rung of the ladder and 
the other endeavouring to hold a lighted candle, to 
prevent being utterly annihilated and cast to the 
bottom of the pit by a descending, heavily-booted 
miner. If you attempted to look up, to see after what 
appeared hours of perpendicular travelling, how near 
you were arriving to the top, you immediately got 
your eyes, mouth, nose, etc., full of mud from the 
gentlemen in front; and by the deep and muttered 
curses that rose from below, you had the satisfaction 
of knowing that you were performing the same act 


iiobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


93 


of benevolence to the rising gentleman underneath, 
and it was with feelings akin to pleasure that we 
found ourselves eventually at the bottom of the shaft, 
after having inspected the horses that they use down 
the mine, who all look in the height of health, although 
once down the shaft they never see the light of day 
again. And it was with more than pleasure that the 
light of day down the shaft shone on the cheerful 
face of Mr. Lewis, surrounded by brandies and soda, 
to wash the mud down before returning to the level 
of civilization, where the enterprising photographer 
was taking a series of groups, after which the miner’s 
costume had to be returned, and the very serious 
operation of taking the thick of the mud off before 
going back to a sumptuous lunch which had been 
prepared at the Mechanic’s Institute for three o’clock, 
and by that time the whole of the guests had arrived. 
The Volunteer band being in attendance, and the 
gallery filled with the fair and lovely ones of Ballarat, 
the Mayor of Ballarat West (Mr. Cowan) in the 
chair, supported on his right by the Admiral and 
Mr. Longmore, with his colleague of Ballarat East 
on the left ; and, after the usual toasts had taken 
place, the chairman, requesting the company to fill 
their glasses for the toast of the day, “ Admiral 
“ Hornby and Officers of the Flying Squadron,” said — 


94 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ In doing so, he was sure that there was no toast 
“ that could be proposed which would be received 
“ with more general enthusiasm, for he was sure that 
“ there was not within the colonies a man that, from 
“ his heart, did not feel proud of the wooden walls 
“ of old England. (Cheers.) They would all seize 
“ the opportunity of showing their kindly feeling at 
“ the remembrance, by drinking the health of Admiral 
“ Hornby, their guest. We were all glad to welcome 
“ to the shores of Australia a sample of the fleet, 

“ ‘ Whose flag has braved a thousand years 

“ ‘ The battle and the breeze.’ 

“ (Cheers.) He was sorry that time had not per- 
“ mitted their guest to visit the whole of Ballarat. 

“ Admiral Hornby could form no idea of its import- 
“ ance from the brief visit he had had, but he might 
“ be permitted to say that they had, in addition to 
“ what he had seen, many things worthy of being 
“ seen or known of — their Benevolent Asylum, their 
“ Hospital, their Orphan Asylum, and their Ladies’ 
“ Clothing Society. He believed that those insti- 
“ tutions would compare favourably with any in 
“ the world. (Cheers.) He was also sure that, in 
“ the way in which they were managed, they were 
“ not surpassed in the whole world. (Cheers.) 

“ They had their public boards of management for 


iiobson’s bay, Melbourne. 95 

“ those, as well as for the management of mining, 
“ and looking after the interests of the mines ; 
“ and they had also their municipal institutions. 
“ As a sample of what the greatness of Ballarat 
“ was composed of, he might say that the very 
“ mining shaft which Admiral Hornby had been 
“ down that day had contributed to its holders no 
“ less than 8 tons 2qr. 21b. 7oz. of gold. Half that 
“ amount had been obtained from the Golden Gate 
“ Company, making in all £1,774,497 worth of 
“ gold. The Band of Hope Company had produced 
“ £515,000 worth. He was sure, in conclusion, that 
“ the gentlemen present would drink their guest’s 
“ health heartily. (Cheers.) 

“ The toast was received with three times three, 
“ the band playing ‘ Rule Britannia,’ ” to which the 
Admiral rose to respond amid loud applause, and 
returned thanks for the kindness of Ballarat in 
entertaining the officers of the squadron. The Chair- 
man then proposed a bumper, and his desire being 
immediately acceded to, the Admiral rose to propose 
the ladies who had honoured us by their company, 
in filling the gallery with their august presence, and 
called on Captain Hopkins to respond, who rose, 
amid applause, and said : — 

“ It gave him unspeakable pleasure to have the re- 


9G 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ sponse to such a toast placed in liis hands. He wns 
“ only sorry that it had not been placed in more worthy 
“ hands. All he conld say was, in returning thanks on 
“ the part of the ladies, that they — and he was sorry 
“ to say what he was going to say — they felt very 
“ great pleasure in meeting with friends fresh from 
“ the old country. If he was to be their mouth- 
“ piece, which he thought he was on that occasion, 
“ he could only say that the more Flying Squadrons 
“ they saw, the better they were pleased. He only 
“ hoped when the next Flying Squadron came to 
“ this colony that some of them would have their 
“ wings clipped before they left these shores again. 
“ On the part of the ladies, he wished to return 
“ those who had drunk their health his sincere 
“ thanks. (Cheers.)” 

Immediately after which, there was a hasty retire- 
ment, and the vehicle procession, still led by Mr. 
Hepburn’s team, started for the railway station, 
where, after many liand-shakings, mutual good wishes 
for the future, and three cheers from the platform, 
which was returned with interest, as the special 
moved off for Melbourne, with no time to spare on 
the road, the engine being ably and rapidly driven 
by the Hon. Walter, time-keeping and stoking also 
being performed by the squadron, and at one time 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


97 


the combination was undoubtedly successful, as the 
train was going sixty-two miles an hour, regardless 
of the boiler, ’ and, with the exception of a short 
stay at Geelong, where there was a very pleasant 
young woman in the refreshment-room, from the 
county Clare, and where the last of aboriginal 
monarchs of Victoria presented himself to the Admiral 
and requested, we think, about sixpence, we again 
urged on our wild career, and after a short stay 
at Williamstown Junction, arrived safely at Mel- 
bourne, having accomplished the distance of ninety- 
six miles in two hours and ten minutes, exclusive of 
stoppages ; and then we had to hurry away, in order to 
prepare for the last great struggle — the Sailor’s Home 
Ball, in the Exhibition building, which is the largest 
edifice south of the Equator. His Excellency the Go- 
vernor, Lady, and Miss Manners Sutton, Sir Trevor 
and Lady Chute, the Admiral and their respective 
suites, met in the ante-room ; and at nine o’clock, as 
his Excellency entered, the company rose, the band 
playing the National Anthem, making the combined 
effect of a very handsome room full of pretty women, 
pretty dresses, and the variety of many-coloured 
uniforms, a very handsome sight ; but we regret to 
say that there was a gloom over all, which nothing 
could dispel. Every one appearing to make a jerky 


M 


98 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


effort to be cheerful, but with not altogether great 
success, as the bare and unpalatable fact was there, 
that in a few hours the friends that had been made 
in a few days, and which threescore and ten years 
could not unmake, would be severed probably for 
ever ; as few that were taking part in that night’s 
festivities will ever see what we venture to think and 
hope will be the capital of the great republic of the 
Southern Ocean, or those eyes which looked so fondly 
into theirs that night, again. And when the parting 
came, which was to be in all probability for ever, there 
were, if it be right to admit, 

Gathering tears and tremblings of distress, 

And cheeks all pale, which but an hour ago 

Blushed at the praise of their own loveliness. 

Then, rushing from the sublime to the practical, as 
the dawn was breaking, and the squadron were sup- 
posed to sail at daylight, and whilst the driver of the 
special, which was to leave at 4 a.m., not too pleased 
with his night out, was frantically blowing his whistle 
to collect his reluctant passengers, who, a very few 
minutes after the appointed time, were on their way to 
Williamstown, where they were deposited safely about 
half-past four, tired, sulky, and altogether in an indif- 
ferent frame of mind, at leaving, what was doubtless 
thought at the time, the world and all in it behind. 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


99 


j\nd the first and only other inhabitant of the pier 
was a sentimental waterman, whistling softly : “ The 
“brightest summer soon must fade,”, gazing fondly on 
the Flying Squadron, thinking of the silver harvest he 
had reaped, and could reap no more ; and by five 
o’clock everybody had reached their respective ships, 
and leaving pleasure behind, had settled down, with 
whatsoever energy was left, to shorten in cable, and 
prepare to weigh ; which operation took place shortly 
after ten, under double-reefed topsails, blowing hard 
with strong squalls from the north-westward, and the 
wind heading. As the intricate navigation of the South 
Channel was reached, steam had to be used, although 
it was suggested to a pilot by one in high autho- 
rity the propriety of beating through ; and the propo- 
sition appeared to have such an immediate effect on 
that functionary as to change his hitherto bronzed 
and weather-beaten visage to a sickly hue, and it was 
not until after a liberal consumption of pale brandy 
that his nerves allowed him to proceed ; and a few 
minutes afterwards, the “ Endymion ” telegraphed to 
the Admiral, to say that her engines were disabled, 
and many anathemas were showered on the makers 
and their drivers as the wind was strong and the 
passage narrow, and sail was immediately made to 
test the progressive seamanship of the day, which had 


100 


THE FLYING SQUADRON. 


to succumb to natural causes, and the anchor dropped, 
in order to prevent further mishap, the “Liffey” being 
sent back to take her in tow, and the squadron in the 
meanwhile anchoring off Quarantine Ground to await 
the arrival of the disabled one, who did not make her 
appearance until half-past seven, when it was too late 
to go through the Heads that night, so as Melbourne 
was lost to sight, it was, we think with all, to memory 
dear. And should any demur at this statement, we 
should recommend the Canadian backwoods as a suit- 
able residence for them in the future. Most retired 
early to their respective bunks to think over their last 
ten days’ career ; some with much regret, and others 
with a pleasant and sober satisfaction. During our 
stay, the editors were bewildered with suggestions 
from all quarters, and one gentleman, exasperated 
beyond measure, published a few of his, the extract of 
which was — 

“ In common with other newspapers, we have a 
“ mass of correspondence in reference to the Flying 
“ Squadron. Not being five times the size of the 
“ Australasian, we have not room to publish the 
“ various letters at length, but we here give a 
“ resume of the first that come to hand : — 


“ ‘ An ex-Naval Officer believes that our naval de- 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 101 

“ fences should be looked to. We have now in our 
“ Bay a body of naval officers of ability 7 ', etc., in- 
“ telligence, etc. Would it not be well if Admiral 
“ Hornby went down to inspect the two guns at the 
“ Heads, and gave us his valuable opinion, etc.?’ 

“ ‘ An Old Sea Captain knows that many vessels 
“ lie sunk in the deep waters of our Bay. We have, 
“ in our midst, a body, sir, etc., skill, etc., usefully 
“ employed, etc., firing guns over the wrecks, in order 
“ to raise them.’ 

“ ‘ Sound Common Sense suggests that much time 
“ is wasted by the workmen on the New Town Hall. 
“ We have now a number of able-bodied, etc., etc., 
“ commanded by officers of experience, etc., etc., — 
“ could they not conveniently be made use of, to raise 
“ some of the huge blocks of stone, etc. ?’ 

“ ‘ Father of a Family proposes that a picnic 
“ should be given at Point Nepean. “ We have 
“ now,” he says, “ a number of young officers, etc., 
“ etc., midshipmen, etc., etc., whose influence would 
“ be most valuable in forming the manners of our 
“ daughters, etc., etc.” ’ 

“‘A Bushman would like to know if it would not 
“ be well to send a couple of thousand men up 


102 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ country. We have now, etc., etc., an intelligent, 
“ etc., who might lend a hand during the lambing, 
“ etc., etc., and make themselves generally useful at 
“ the drafting yards.’ 

“ £ Science and Art would like the process of 
“ swinging compasses gone through at the Mechanic’s 
“ Institute. “ We have now an Admiral, etc., 
“ genius, etc., a lecture from him, etc., swell the 
“ funds of local institutions, etc.” ’ 

“ ‘ An Inhabitant of Geelong remarks that “ there 
“ is now, etc., a body, etc., officers, etc., men, etc., 
“ equal, etc., to any emergency, etc. The gradual 
“ filling up of the harbour is a cause of great dis- 
“ comfort. Might not four or five. ship anchor in the 
“ Bay, and spend a few weeks in carefully dredging, 
“ etc. ?” ’ 

“ ‘ Terpsichore an laments the decline of those 
“ national dances, which tend to elevate alike the 
“ hearts and legs of every community. We have 
“ now a magnificent, etc., body of men, etc., trained 
“ in athletic sports, etc. ; could they not assemble on 
“ a fixed day on the pier, and give the sailor’s 
“ hornpipe, etc. ? ’ ” 

What other suggestions might have taken place, if 


hobson’s bay, Melbourne. 


103 


there had only been time, it is difficult to contemplate, 
but anything might be expected after a few of the ones 
mentioned. Heaven help Paterfamilias’ daughters, if 
they were formed by the influence of a British 
midshipman ! However, that is a mere matter of 
opinion, where, perhaps, the ladies differ. 

TOUCHSTONE : 

A Saturday Journal of Criticism, Commentary, and Satire. 
Melbourne, Dec. 4. 

THE LAMENT OF A PATERFAMILIAS. 

By one wiiose Family uas been seized with “ Flying Squadron ” 
on the Brain. 

Oh, dear ! oh, dear ! what shall I do 1 
My wife, my sons, my daughters, too, 

About, in manner odd, run ; 

They early badger me, and late, 

(They’re cranky, just as sure as fate,) 

About the “ Flying Squadron.” 

There’s Jack goes off now ev’ry day 
A-cruising about Hobson’s Bay, 

And thinks me an old fool 
Because I won’t go with him too, 

And spend an afternoon to view 
The frigate “ Liverpool.” 

And as for Jim, I can’t tell what 
Insane idea that boy has got ; 

He vows, in half a “jiffey” 

(Whatever that may mean), that he 
Would cut the Bank, if he could be 
A “ mid ” on board the “ Liffey.” 

There’s Isabel, my eldest girl, 

Her brain’s in a perpetual whirl — 

Enough, I’m sure, to kill her ; 

She’s been to Toorak, pic-nie, ball, 

And vows she’s “ gone ” upon a tall 
Young fellow from the “ Scylla.” 


104 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


That Lilian, wlio’s so demure, 

Had better sense, I felt quite sure ; 

I’ve altered my opinion — 

She’s worse than Jessie, ten to one 
Her tongue all day does nought but run 
On , of the “ Endymion.’’ 

While little Nell, who’s just fifteen, 

Says, “ Oh, pa, who d’ye think I’ve seen 
And wonder who can he be ; 

Oh ! such a nice young man in town — 

An officer — do ask him down — 

I think he’s in the “ Phoebe.” 

But, worse than all this, there’s my wife, 

And really at her time of life 

(Well, there, I dare not cross her), 

At me does nought but jeer and flout — 

She’s “ mad as a March hare ” about 
Some one in the “ Barrosa.” 

Well, never mind, they welcome are, 

From “ Admiral ” to bold “ Jack Tar," 

Who does aloft unshod run ; 

So wife, sons, daughters, while we may, 

Let’s welcome them ; not ev’ry day 
We see a “ Flying Squadron.” 

Wednesday, December 8th. — At 5 a.m., weighed, 
and passed through the Heads under steam, in charge 
of pilots, leaving 158 men behind, who preferred a 
country to a marine life. The sum total for piloting 
the four frigates only in and out amounting to 
£329 15s. 8d., a fourth of which sum expended on 
the navigating officers would have caused those 
gentlemen to dispense with the pilots, and have 
saved the sum of £247 6s. 9d., or, what was of 
considerably more importance to the squadron, the 
equivalent of 1,648 tons of water ; but as a liberal 


MELBOURNE TO SYDNEY. 


105 


country would only allow those gentlemen between 
80s. and £2 for performing the same function for 
which the pilot got about £50 for, they naturally 
decline the office, and, under such circumstances, take 
a malicious pleasure in swelling the navy estimates. 
As soon as the ships were outside, sail was made, and 
the pilots were discharged with their easily earned 
rewards, to wait for other victims, and the course 
shaped with a fresh westerly breeze for Bass’s Straits, 
which were passed through by the squadron shortly 
before midnight, with a strong breeze, and rather thick, 
in single line, as the passage was narrow, and on clear- 
ing which hauled up for Sydney. After several days 
light and variable winds, at 11.10 a.m. on the morning 
of Sunday, October 12th, the lighthouse was made 
out on the Sydney Heads, and shortly afterwards 
Commodore Lambert (commanding the Australian 
station) came out to meet the squadron, in the 
Government steamer “ Thetis,” in company with a 
large number of yachts, regardless of its being the 
Sabbath ; and between half-past five and six o’clock 
the squadron passed between the Heads of Port 
Jackson, and under the feet almost of the thousands 
of people who had taken up their position on the 
South Head, to welcome the new arrivals, and shortly 
after half-past five, anchored just inside the Heads, 


N 


IOC 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


on account of there not being sufficient water, in 
Mr. Cork’s (the “ Liverpool's ” pilot) opinion, for the 
squadron to cross the bar that night, as there is only 
between 26 and 29 feet at high water, and 21 feet at 
low, which would debar it from harbouring large 
vessels of war in case such a misfortune should arise 
in the future as that New South Wales, through 
jealousy, should arm against her neighbours. So the 
squadron waited patiently for the morrow’s afternoon 
tide, to go up to the proper anchorage in Farm Cove, 
without, perhaps, on account of being the Sabbath, 
being disturbed by any civilities, except from a few 
coal contractors, etc., and gentlemen of that stamp 
searching for individual pecuniary benefit. 

Monday, December 13th. — At 2.45 p.m., the 
squadron weighed under steam, the wind being dead 
foul, and the “ Liffey ” towing “ Endymion,” pro- 
ceeded up the Harbour of Port Jackson, better known, 
perhaps, throughout the world as our fine Harbour of 
Sydney, the shores on both sides dotted with pretty 
villas, and gay-coloured dresses watching the proces- 
sion passing in close order of line of battery (single 
line) up to their anchorage in Farm Cove, accom- 
panied by the vessels of the Royal Sydney Yacht 
Club, under their commodore (Mr. Dangar), in his 
yacht, “Mistral,” and also the “Prince Alfred” 


FA EM COVE, SYDNEY. 


107 


Yacht Squadron, under their commodore (Mr. Hanks), 
in the “ Psyche,” respective commanders-in-chief being 
stern martinets amongst the yachting fraternity, as 
the many evolutions that the yachts performed were 
done well, and without any accident whatever to mar 
the pleasure of the day, or the beauty of the scene, 
and at a quarter to four, when the first ships of the 
squadron anchored, there were supposed to be 30,000 
people on Lady Macquorie’s Chair, a small point on 
one side of Farm Cove ; and as our mild description 
will not give any idea of the scene, we quote an ex- 
tract from the flowing description of the Sydney 
Herald. 

“.THE flying squadron. 

“ The most glorious sight ever witnessed in Port 
“ Jackson was the passage of the Flying Squadron 
“ from their temporary anchorage at the Heads to 
“ their moorings in Farm Cove (perhaps better known 
“ as Man-of-War Bay), which took place yesterday. 
“ Admiral Hornby intended bringing his ships up 
“ the harbour under canvas ; but owing to the 
“ southerly wind setting in, the idea had to be 
“ abandoned, and steam was substituted. At any 
“ time, or in any part of the world, the movements 
“ of one or more of Her Majesty’s ships are always 
“ viewed with interest ; but when a squadron, com- 


108 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ prising six of the finest vessels in the service, is 
“ seen for the first time, it produces an indescribable 
“ sensation in the spectator, more especially when 
“ witnessed under fortuitous circumstances. The 
“ spectacle of yesterday will not readily be forgotten 
“ by those who were fortunate enough to be present, 
“ and in after years the particulars of this interesting 
“ event in the annals of our colony will be repeated 
“ to eager listeners, when all who were present have 
“ passed away. It may not, perhaps, be arrogating 
“ too much to say that we possess one of the finest 
“ harbours in the world for displays of this kind, and 
“ judging from the thousands that were present 
“ (massed, as they were, on every available jutting 
“ point and headland), all wrought up to a state of 
“ enthusiasm seldom seen, as the noble ships, in the 
“ full panoply of war, steamed round Bradley’s Head 
“ and came in view, we think the idea will be fully 
“ endorsed. The beautiful appearance of the ships, 
“ as regards their hulks and spars, the correct 
“ order and seamanlike manner in which they 
“ held their various positions and were handled, 
“ and the total absence of bustle or confusion, 
“ was as gratifying to the spectators as it must 
“ have been pleasing to the gallant Admiral who 
“ has the honour to command so fine a squadron. 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


] 09 


“ 3 p.m. was the time appointed for the ships to come 
“ up, by which time there could not have been less 
“ than 30,000 persons on Macquorie’s Point and along 
“ the Domain Road, all anxious to catch the first 
“ glance of the new arrivals. But we will give in 
“ detail the programme of the day. Arriving at the 
“ Heads at 1 p.m. yesterday, we found the squadron 
“ still at anchor, with steam up but with one exception, 
“ the £ Endymion,’ who, having disarranged some of 
“ her screw gear, was unable to use her propeller. 
“ They had royal and topgallant yards across, squared 
“ to perfection ; ‘ Phoebe ’ being the weathermost ship, 
“ the wind being south, ‘ Liverpool ’ and ‘ Scylla ’ the 
“ most leeward. At 1.30 p.m. the first indication of 
“ t-heir being about to weigh was the shortening in of 
“ their cables, and soon after the £ Liffey ’ tripped and 
“ steamed ahead of ‘ Endymion,’ dropping down stern 
“ first on her, and taking on board towing warps, a 
“ manoeuvre that was carried out beautifully. The 
* £ wind had by this time freshened considerably, and a 
££ long roll from seaward was coming in. At 2.50 p.m. 
££ the £ Liverpool ’ tripped, and came steaming up for 
££ the west channel in charge of pilot Cook. She was 
££ followed by the £ Scylla,’ then £ Phoebe,’ pilot Coots, 
“ and £ Barrosa,’ the rear being brought up by £ Liffey,’ 
“ pilot Jenkins, with the ‘Endymion,’ pilot Christison, 


no 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ in tow. The ships were separated by about three 
“ cables’ length ; but when they had cleared the bar, 
“ signal was made by the Admiral to form close order, 
“ 1 Liverpool ’ going off at full speed. The vessels all 
“ kept the proper line, and preserved the regulation 
“ distance. After rounding Bradley’s Head, ‘Liverpool’ 
“ and ‘ Scylla ’ ported their helms, and passed north of 
“ Fort Denison, ‘ Phoebe ’ and ‘ Barrosa ’ keeping to 
“ the south side of the harbour. ‘ Scylla,’ after round- 
“ ing Port Denison, steamed past the ‘ Liverpool,’ and 
“ ran well into Farm Cove, ‘ Liverpool ’ following, and 
“ taking up her mooring inside ‘ Challenger,’ ‘ Barrosa’ 
“ at the same time passing ‘ Phoebe,’ and anchoring 
“ under the stern of ‘Scylla.’ ‘Phoebe’ mooring out 
“ in the stream, ‘ Liffey ’ still having ‘ Endymion ’ in 
“ tow, passed across ‘ Phoebe’s ’ bows, dropped ‘ Endy- 
“ mion ’ in her proper position to the westward, and 
“ then, keeping on her course, steamed up the harbour 
“ as far as abreast of the Cove ; here she cleverly 
“ slewed, and, coming back again, took up her proper 
“ moorings. On the ‘ Liverpool ’ being sighted at 
“ Bradley’s, the Flag was saluted by the ‘ Challenger,’ 
“ and promptly returned from the Admiral’s ship. 
“ The French Consul boarded the ‘ Liverpool ’ shortly 
“ after she brought up, and was received with the 
“ customary honours. The process of mooring the 


FARM DOVE, SYDNEY. 


Ill 


“ squadron was finished by 2.50 p.m., each vessel 
“ coming-to with wonderful precision. Sails were 
“ then unbent, and at sundown topgallant and royal 
“ yards sent down, but until dark the crowds as- 
“ sembled still lingered, unwilling apparently to leave 
“ so picturesque a scene. In addition to the yacht 
“ squadron, there were no less than ten steamers, 
“ including the ‘ City of Brisbane,’ c Black Swan,’ 
“ c Collaroy,’ ‘Agnes Irving,’ and ‘ Breadalbane,’ well 
“ freighted with passengers, proceeded to the Heads, 
“ and, after steaming round the squadron, accom- 
“ panied them up the harbour.” 

Immediately after anchoring, the Admiral landed, 
and, accompanied by Commodore Lambert, went up 
to Government House to pay his respects to the 
Governor (the Earl of Belmore), who, unfortunately, 
had gone out driving ten minutes before. But we 
hope that the disappointment was not altogether in- 
consolable, as they had, instead, the genial company 

of Mrs. L 1 and Mrs. B d. The members of 

the Union, Australian, and Volunteer Clubs imme- 
diately offered their houses for the benefit of the 
officers of the Flying Squadron, which was largely 
and gratefully taken advantage of. On Tuesday, the 
Commodore dined the Admiral to meet Mr. Robertson 


112 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


(the Premier) and some of the Ministers, and the next 
day the Admiral and captains of the squadron had the 
pleasure of meeting the Governor for the first time at 
dinner at Government House with the members of the 
Government and heads of departments. Thursday 
evening the ball at Government House was to tako 
place, and there the Upper Ten of Sydney congre- 
gated largely to welcome the Flying Squadron, and 
where also the squadron had the pleasure of seeing for 
the first time that fair sight of the fascinating sisters, 
with their faces powdered and painted, golden hair, 
fresh from the hands of a Parisian coiffeur, and 
manners apparently from the Mabille : 

They have many partners at a ball, but none, alas ! for life ; 

For modesty at times is one of the things men look for in a wife : 

For, in their turn, they flirt ; with one, and each, and all ; 

And, in return, get flirted with, and go beyond recall. 

We will now give a leading article as it appeared in 
the Sydney paper {Empire), to show that Sydney was 
really glad to welcome the squadron, although, the 
whole country being in the throes of a general elec- 
tion, they were unable to show it as, perhaps, other- 
wise they might have wished : 

“ The Empire ,” Tuesday, December 14, 1869. 

“ The arrival of the British squadron, under Bear- 
“ Admiral Hornby, is a proof, if any were wanting, 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


113 


“ that England has a long arm, and is able to protect 
“ her colonies if necessary. Probably not half of the 
“ twenty or thirty thousand people who saw the fleet 
“ coming in yesterday had ever witnessed anything so 
“ magnificent as those stately ships coming quietly 
“ through the water, with all their deadly armament, 
“as it were, slumbering, but ready to pour out its 
“ terrific fire, if need were. The salutes exchanged 
“ would create in the minds of any utilitarians the 
“ idea that there was a very wasteful expenditure of 
“ ‘ villainous gunpowder ; 5 but the sternest disciple of 
“ economy must admit that the whole spectacle was a 
“ grand sight. It was not, perhaps, so splendid as 
“ the appearance of Nelson’s fleet was off Aboukir, but 
“ with the gathered knowledge of seventy years we 
“ may appreciate the march that Science has made. 

“ There is no decadence in the British pluck. The 
“ same kind of men who fought the most desperate 
“ sea fights with other nations at almost any time 
“ during the last three centuries, are still, we have 
“ no doubt, to be found in Admiral Hornby’s fleet. 

“ Most of the men, as we have understood, are from 
“ the Naval Reserve, which, for some years past, has 
“ been in a state of organization for service if called 
“ upon. During the late cruise of the Channel 
“ Squadron, a large proportion of the men were taken 


o 


114 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ from this reserve, and their conduct met in every 
way with the warmest approbation from the English 
“ Press. There needs but one glimpse of the speci- 
“ mens that arrived here yesterday, to show that in 
“ this reserve Her Majesty’s Government has a 
“ resource better than all that could be given by 
“ press-gangs, and the old style of things. There 
“ have been some desertions, as we hear, in Mel- 
“ bourne. This was to be expected ; but in all pro- 
“ bability many of the deserters would be glad enough 
“ to go back again to their ships if they were assured 
“ of immunity. The rules of the Service are severe, 
“ and, perhaps, necessarily so ; and when Jack goes 
“ on a frolic, he may sometimes be afraid that re- 
“ pentance would not be good for his health. At all 
“ events, we have in Sydney hundreds of fine young 
“ fellows who seem to be bursting with loyalty and 
“ combativeness, and who, to all appearance, could 
“ not be better employed than in assisting Britannia 
“ to rule the waves. They would thus be able to 
“ see the world from a broader point of view than 
“ they do at present, and would return much bene- 
“ fited by their experience. We have no doubt that 
“ numbers would offer themselves if the Admiral 
“ called for them, and that would solve a difficult 
“ problem as to the disposal of our surplus population. 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


115 


“ Amongst the spectators of the stately arrivals 
“ yesterday there were many who recalled to mind 
“ the sea stories of old, and who thought of the present 
“ strength of the United Kingdom in ships of war. 
“ The Navy List at present contains the names of 
“ more than seven hundred vessels, the greater 
“ number of which are larger and heavier in artillery 
“ than Admiral Hornby’s squadron. Dismissing the 
“ old three-deckers — such as the ‘ Howe,’ of a 
“ hundred and twenty guns, and the ‘ Duke of Wel- 
“ ‘ lington,’ of a hundred and thirty guns — we come 
“ down to the more modern style of ship, of which 
“ the ‘ Minotaur,’ which was of nearly seven thousand 
“ tons burden, four hundred feet in length, and was 
“ propelled by engines of nearly fourteen hundred 
“ horse power, may be taken as an example. Vessels 
“ like this — or, rather, more handy ironclad ships, 
“ such as the ‘ Bellerophon,’ the * Royal Sovereign,’ 
“ and later constructions — are kept for home service, 
“ and will be found ready to defend the British coast 
“ from foreign invasion at any time. Such ships as 
“ these are never likely to be sent for service out 
“ of the British Channel or the North Atlantic Ocean. 

“ What we welcome to-day is but a pigmy representa- 
“ tion of the naval power of England. It is sufficient 
“ to protect her dependencies from all probable 


116 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ assaults, with the determined resistance of the 
“ colonists themselves, and it is well understood that 
“ the visit of this squadron is merely the precursor 
“ of other visits of a similar kind. In fact, it is well 
“ known that the future policy of the parent country, 
“ so far as naval and military defence is concerned, 
“ and so long as the present Government remains in 
“ office, will be to protect the British Isles, in the first 
“ place, and to assist its distant dependencies in the 
“ next. 

“ Amongst all the thousands of people who saw the 
“ fleet come in, the prevailing feeling was one of pride. 
“ It might bo repressed, but it could not be altogether 
“ concealed. It has been the fashion at times to 
“ disparage the maritime glories of England, and to 
“ say that her greatness was on the wane ; to 
“ anticipate all kinds of evil as her destiny, and to 
“ set her down as a future province or state of some 
“ foreign power. We feel assured, however, that the 
“ people who greeted the arrival of Admiral Hornby 
“ and his squadron — earnestly, though undemonstra- 
“ tively — will feel that Great Britain has still an 
“ arm to protect the defenceless, or to avenge their 
“ wrongs. The officers and seamen of the fleet will 
“ find, without further expressions of feeling, how 
“ heartily they are welcome here.” 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


117 


It is our earnest hope that in the indefinite ages 
of the future, when the inevitable progress of civiliza- 
tion has divided Australia, as a colony, from the 
mother country, that the old Anglo-Saxon kingdom 
of the northern, and the young country of the 
southern hemisphere, may always unite together for 
mutual prosperity, and never forget the time when 
born and bred Australians ceased not to call Great 
Britain home, and loved it as such. 

On Friday night the Flying Amateurs gave their 
first performance at the Prince of Wales’s Theatre, 
before His Excellency the Governor and a crowded 
house, the pieces being 

THE GOOSE WITH THE GOLDEN EGGS. 

Turby, Mr. Inues, R.M.L.I., “ Scylla.” 

Flickster, Mr. H. T. Wright, Lieut., “ Scylla.” 

Bonser, Mr. J. Bruce, Lieut., “ Liverpool.” 

Mrs, Turby, W alter Bignold, “ Liverpool.” 

Daughter, Miss Florence Colville. 

Maid, Mr. Leonard Dick, “ Liverpool.” 

KENILWORTH. 

Queen Elizabeth, Mp. A. J. Menzies, “Endymion.” 

Amy Robsart, Miss Kate Corcoran. 

Janet, Mr. Montagu, “Liverpool.” 

Duke of Sussex, Mr. Henderson, “ Endymion.” 

Lambourne, Mr. Macausland, “ Liffey.” 

Earl of Leicester, Mr. Michaelson, “ Endymion.” 

Sir Walter Raleigh, Mr. Minhinnick, “ Endymion.” 

Varney, Mr. Grissel, “ Endymion.” 

Tressilian, Mr. Bignold, “Liverpool.” 

Wayland Smith, Mr. Lillingston, “ Endymion.” 

To conclude with “ Ici on Parle Fraucais.” By Mr. Innes and Mr. 

Wright. 


118 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


The whole performance went off very satisfactorily, 
and “ Queen Elizabeth” herself, as well as her “ Good 
Queen Bess is my name — ha ! ha ! ” were both 
vociferously encored. 

Saturday was the day set apart for the distribution 
of the prizes to the Volunteers of New South Wales ; 
and a little after four o’clock Lady Belmore, the dis- 
tributress of the prizes, accompanied by the Admiral, 
drove up to the tent, where already the youth and 
beauty of Sydney had congregated to see, and perhaps 
be seen ; and shortly afterwards the Governor and 
his aide-de-camp, Captain Beresford, rode on to 
the ground, and were received with a general salute 
by the combined naval and military forces of 
New South Wales, about 3,000 strong, under the 
command of Colonel Richardson, and after the con- 
clusion of the presentations the Naval Brigade were 
inspected by Commodore Lambert, in the presence 
of the Governor, Admiral, and a lady who shall be 
nameless, belonging to the staff, who manifested a 
decided antipathy to the discharge of artillery. 

On Sunday, the vice-regal party, with the pleasant 
addition of Colonel Blackall, the Governor of Queens- 
land, who had arrived from his kingdom during 
the night, went on board the “ Liverpool ” to 
church, the other ships being filled with ladies, or 


FARM GOVE, SYDNEY. 


119 


rather the churches emptied, to such an extent, 
that a not fluent, but irate parson, remonstrated 
with the Admiral commanding the Flying Squadron, 
on the plea of Sabbath-breaking, for coming in on 
Sunday, which took his evening congregation away 
from the drowsy influence of prosy eloquence to 
the more exhilarating one of Sydney Heads, in 
order to welcome a squadron from the old country 
coming through their Heads for the first time. 
The following Sunday his congregation left him 
for the relaxation of having their divine teaching 
afloat, and if the reverend gentleman had been 
gifted with sufficient foresight, he might have seen 
his third Sunday’s congregation, notwithstanding his 
remonstrances during the week, again standing on 
Heads, waving a long farewell to the outward-going 
squadron, where we left the flock once more to 
their rightful and now irate pastor, who we are 
much afraid, if he has followed the career of the 
squadron, will have found many and divers acts of 
Sabbath-breaking since he lost his congregation on 
the Sydney Heads. 

On Monday morning the vice-regal party went 
round the squadron in a non-official way, and in the 
evening there was a complimentary benefit at the 
Prince of Wales’s Theatre, principally remarkable for 


120 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


the largeness of its house and the stupidity of its 
performance ; after which there was a large and dis- 
tinguished company congregated at the supper-room 
of the Cafe de Paris, kept by Mr. Wangenheim, and 
patronized principally for the sake of Miss E. H. 

Tuesday was a day devoted to cricket, in a great 
measure, Sydney playing the Squadron, who were 
dreadfully beaten, for many reasons — the principal 
ones being that they played very badly, and Sydney, 
without professionals, was too strong ; but with them, 
they were overwhelming to our puny efforts. And 
there was also a match going on, which apparently 
caused more excitement than the bigger one, between 
eleven men of the “ Liverpool ” versus eleven of the 
“ Phoebe’s,” which was won by the “Phoebe’s;” and 
after the first innings, they were provided with a 
sumptuous luncheon, which somewhat caused the 
play of the second innings to be rather erratic. 
However, the whole affair went off without the 
slightest hitch, and it was pleasant to see the trouble 
the people took to make Jack happy, for which we 
return their entertainers our sincere thanks, especially 
to Messrs. Pritchard and Kelly, who appear to have 
most favourably impressed the sensitive heart of the 
British sailor. 

Wednesday was the day of the pic-nic given by 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


121 


Sydney to the officers of the squadron at Clontarf, 
a place now of world-wide reputation as being the 
chosen ground of the would-be assassin in his das- 
tardly attempt on the life of the Duke of Edinburgh, 
where only a small tree now marks the place of the 
most cowardly tragedy since Wilkes Booth electrified 
the world in the Washington Theatre ; but the past 
was put on one side for the time, as in the early part of 
the day the steamers arrived at the spot of revelry, 
in continuous succession, heavily freighted with gay 
muslins, pretty bonnets, and bright faces. As every- 
body appeared intent on enjoying the day themselves, 
and also trying to make their guests, even including 
our fair-haired sisters, whose lovely chignons sparkled 
in the summer sun like pure gold, and who con- 
descended to give Sydney a treat by their patronage. 
We have to regret the absence of Lady Belmore, who 
entertained such a horror of her last Clontarf picnic, 
as to be afraid to take part in another ; so at half- 
past two, about 300 sat down to lunch in a large 
tent, which, in a few minutes, would have been 
equally serviceable without a top as with, a tremendous 
thunderstorm breaking vertically over Clontarf, and 
the rain pouring down like a sheet of water, came 
right through the roof of the tent, underneath which 
mackintoshes and umbrellas were in great requisi- 


p 


222 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


tion, and in the midst of which our worthy host, the 
Mayor, rose, and commenced what doubtless was a 
very amusing speech, if anybody could have heard it, 
but the elements were against him, and so were his 
fellow councillors, who loudly insisted on their august 
colleague resuming his seat in the middle of a very 
interesting anecdote, we believe ; to two gentlemen ; 
the one on the right hand, and the other on the 
left, who repeatedly showed signs of approval at the 
sentiments of the Chairman ; and we strongly suspect 
that but for the unmistakeable signs of fatigue 
evinced by the farther end of the tables ; if nature 
had allowed, the anecdote would still be in process of 
recital ; and we were much pleased to see Colonel 
Blackall amongst the guests, looking as if the climate 
of Queensland was more beneficial to health than that 
of Sierra Leone. After a considerable amount of 
oratory, the greater part of which was inaudible, the 
party broke up, and shortly afterwards the greater 
number were wending back to Sydney, after which 
His Excellency entertained the Admiral and a large 
party at dinner, and in the evening Mrs. Moriarty, 
the wife of the Surveyor- General of the colony, gave 
a ball on the north shore, which was largely attended 
by the squadron, and where the commanding officers 
of two of Her Majesty’s vessels solaced themselves of 


FARM COVE, SYDNEY. 


123 


their Melbourne anguish in the sunny smiles of the 
Miss H ds. 

Thursday, 23rd. — The Admiral entertained His 
Excellency the Governor, Lady Belmore, Colonel 
Blackall, the vice-regal party, ministers, and heads of 
departments at lunch, His Excellency being received 
by the squadron with all the honours, and after lunch 
the dancing part of the community went on board, 
actually accompanied by the golden heads, who refrain 
from dancing on board ship, because they have not 
brought their shoes ; not, we trust, because the can-can 
was the only branch of the Terpsichorean science 
which the Parisian sojourn had taught, and which has 
fortunately not yet been publicly recognised as a 
national dance for the daughters of England ; and 
by the others dancing was kept up until seven o’clock, 
and in the evening the second Flying Amateur per- 
formance was given by request, on account of the 
large number which the house could not hold on the 
first occasion, when Mr. Menzies as “ Queen Elizabeth ” 
was enthusiastically received, and her prologue — 

“ Ky-ind Sydney friends, how do once again ? 

Been electioneering, d’ye say ? No, no — no fear ; 

We’ve been visiting your poor harbour ; ’tis dem fine — 

So was your picnic, so was your colonial wine. 

We’ve been to Clontarf, to Botany, the Hocks, 

Bought wax matches at a penny a box ; 

Been to Gus Wangenheim’s, seen his funny sketches, 

Been pestered with the ’sketurs, horrid wretches ; 


124 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


With the Flying Squadron we’ve been to lunch, 

And read the last number of the dear old Sydney Punch ; 

We’ve heard the dying pieman’s high-flown speeches, 

Heard those dirty little bus-boys’ horrid screeches ; 

We’ve seen live snakes, cockroaches — my word, there’s one. 

Stay, stay ; here they’re quite harmless — so you needn’t run. 

And now courtiers of Kenilworth we bring 
To greet Will Hoskyns of comedy the king,” 

— was warmly applauded by a crowded house, and on 
her second appearance on the Sydney stage she was 
received with a perfect ovation, but we fear her 
prologue will be quite unintelligible, except to the 
people interested ; so we will only mention that the 
last name mentioned was the manager of the Prince 
of Wales’s Theatre, who managed remarkably well to 
do the squadron, and as there were some unpleasant 
remarks made concerning the disposal of the money 
after the departure of the squadron, we must mention 
that we consider the responsible people of the Amateur 
Company much to blame on leaving the disposal of 
the money in unscrupulous hands, and also our 
surprise that a distinguished member of the Judicial 
Bench, who had been knighted by his Sovereign, 
should have taken, despite of his profession, so one- 
sided and bigoted a view, and expressed his ideas so 
plainly against the absentee’s, which, we should think, 
is hardly the courtesy of the law. 

Friday, 24th. — A large number of officers, etc., 
including the Governor, Admiral, and Ministers, 


FARM GOVE, SYDNEY. 


125 


etc., left Sydney by special train at a little before 
half-past seven to see the engineering feat of the 
Zig Zag railway, in the Lithgow Valley. After a 
short stoppage at Paramatta Junction, during which 
the passengers regaled themselves with coffee and 
buns, the train proceeded to Mount Victoria, where 
champagne, sandwiches, cakes, and all other delicacies 
were lavishly distributed to the squadron, under the 
immediate supervision of Mr. Sutherland (Minister for 
Works) ; and after the distribution, and several cutting- 
out expeditions by the midshipmen, the train pro- 
ceeded to the Zig Zag, and after a not very long stop- 
page, started back at two o’clock, arriving at Sydney 
at a quarter after six, the greatest gradient being 
1 in 30, and for the lubrication of which performance, 
castor oil is used for the furtherance of economy, at 
the rate of an ounce a wheel for 60 miles. In 
the evening Mr. Towns, of Rose Bay, gave a ball 
to the squadron, which was largely attended, and we 
must sincerely congratulate one of our golden heads 
on chattering, billiard tables not yet being invented. 

A WELCOME TO THE FLYING SQUADRON. 

“ We are officers of H.M.S. — , and we admire the harbour very 
much.” — S. M. Ihrald. 

Three cheers for the flasr of Old England, 

And three for our monarch afar, 

And welcome each gallant commander, 

Merry middy and jolly tar ! 


126 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


By thousands we hurry to meet them 
As they steam up our beautiful harbour, 

And shout, as exultant we greet them, 

“ Pray, what do you think of our harbour 1 ” 

Oh, brothers ! our hearts cannot tell you 
How they cling to your jackets of blue — 

How we honour our country’s brave sailors, 

From the prince to the least of the crew ; 

But we’ll flock round your vessel to-morrow, 

Till our coming shall blacken the harbour, 

And our voices shall chorus the greeting, 

“ Pray, what do you think of our harbour 1 ” 

Come away ! we’ll have dinners and dances, 

And all that is pleasant and gay, 

And we’ll open our hearts and our dwellings, 

To gladden you during your stay ; 

And we’ll give you a pic-nic, and show you 

Where our prince was struck down near our harbour, 

And while the champagne fizzes brightly, 

We’ll say, “ Admire our beautiful harbour !” 

Hurrah ! for the brave Flying Squadron ! 

Cheer boys three times three, and one more ; 

God keep them while gracing our waters, 

And speed them when quitting our shore. 

And when, to our sorrow, they leave us, 

We’ll follow their track down the harbour, 

And shout a “ Good-bye and God bless you !” 

And “ Mind you speak well of our harbour.” 

Saturday, 25th, being Christmas Day, a large number 
of people came on board the squadron to see the 
customary festivities, the principal attraction being 
the dressing up of Jack’s messes and the amount 
of good things they had laid out, in a great measure 
owing to the kindness of some of the people of 
Sydney, who had provided them with unlimited 
supplies of beef and dough, owing in a great measure 


SYDNEY TO IIOBAHT TOWN. 


127 


to the efforts of Mr. Robertson, the Premier, in their 
behalf, and the day, as it always should, passed 
away with peace and goodwill, and the next after- 
noon, Sunday, December 26th, at one o’clock, 
found the squadron steaming out of our fine 
harbour, with few lookers on, owing to the time 
for sailing being supposed to be late in the 
afternoon, the inhabitants were hardly out of 
church, and so we passed quietly out of Australian 
waters, having for passengers Mrs. Lambert on 
board the “Liverpool,” and Captain Beresford, 
A.D.C., on board the “ Barrosa,” en route for 
Tasmania ; and thus ended the visit of the Flying 
Squadron of 1869 to the great Anglo-Saxon continent 
of the southern hemisphere, where the welcome was 
general and genuine, especially in the small and 
wealthy colony of the south. Directly after getting 
outside the harbour, and pilots being discharged, sail 
was made to a light northerly wind, and course 
shaped for Tasman’s land, which, after a succession 
of light winds, chiefly from the southward, was sighted 
at daylight on the following Sunday, and after being 
becalmed for the greater part of the forenoon at the 
entrance to Storm Bay, a northerly wind came to 
our rescue, and away we went, bowling up one 
of the finest bays in the world, passing the Iron pot 


123 


PLYTNG SQUADRON. 


Lighthouse, the extreme point of the River Derwent, 
at half-past twelve, and carrying a strong breeze up, 
ran past the town, and anchored in 7f fathoms, im- 
mediately under the windows of Government House, 
and within a stone’s throw of the bank of the river, 
twelve miles from the mouth, which combines as a 
harbour for large vessels, safety, beauty, and expanse 
almost unsurpassed in the world. His Excellency 
the Governor (Mr. Du Cane) and party drove down to 
the point shortly after noon to see whereabouts the 
squadron were, and satisfy themselves as to the fact 
that six men-of-war were really coming to Hobart 
Town ; and when the squadron appeared to view, 
they were going up so fast, with a fresh breeze, that 
the vice-regal party headed homewards as fast as 
the stud would allow, to enable the Governor to 
be in time to receive the Admiral at the Tasmanian 
Palace on his arrival. Immediately after anchoring, 
Mr. Chichester (Private Secretary to His Excellency) 
went on board the “ Liverpool ” to convey the 
Governor’s welcome to the Admiral, and also once 
again to place the hospitalities of Government House 
— which, without wishing to be unduly eulogistic, as 
the squadron can attest to the many acts of kindness 
and right royal hospitality which characterized the 
house so eminently presided over by Mrs. Du Cane — 



GOVERNMENT HOUSE, HOBART TOWN 





RIVER DERWENT. TASMANIA. 


129 


at the disposal of the Admiral. Shortly afterwards, 
Mr. Wilson (the Premier) went on board the “Liver- 
pool,” to convey the welcome of the Government, 
and then the Admiral landed, drove up to Govern- 
ment House, accompanied by Mrs. Lambert and Mr. 
Chichester, while the squadron were anchoring ; and 
afterwards, we believe ; through a large portion of 
the night, the domain close to where the squadron 
anchored was crowded by lookers on, principally of 
the gentle sex, and during the lovely summer’s night 
many found the domain a not unpleasant place for a 
midnight stroll. 

Monday, January 3rd. — The little amusement of 
manning and arming boats took place in the forenoon, 
which prevented acquaintance being made with the 
shore, but not the Mayor, accompanied by his Chaplain 
(Mr. Buckland), going on board the “ Liverpool ” with 
the welcome of Hobart Town, and also to express 
regret that the squadron were obscured by an inter- 
vening hill from the ladies in the town. At eleven 
o’clock the Admiral landed to pay his official visit 
to the Premier, and in the afternoon the town and 
surrounding country were full of members of the 
squadron, especially in the neighbourhood of New 
Town. His Excellency in his open carriage, with 
four grays, postilions, and mounted orderlies, drove 


Q 


130 


FLYING SQUADlfON. 


the Admiral and Mr. Lambert to see Cook’s monu- 
ment, erecting in honour of the memory of a patriotic 
mayor, Mrs. Du Cane remaining at home to receive 
the homage of the captains of the squadron, which 
was duly offered in the course of the afternoon, and 
in the evening His Excellency entertained the Admiral, 
Bishop, Chief Justice, Premier, Attorney- General, with 
their respective families, and some of the Flying 
Squadron, at dinner. 

Tuesday, January 4th. — We will give the leading 
article which appeared in that day’s Tasmanian Times , 
to give the ideas of the press on the advent of 
the squadron : — 

“ Now that the Flying Squadron floats proudly 
“ and safely on the broad bosom of the Derwent, 
“it is gratifying to observe, or at any rate to 
“ believe, that all the petty local jealousies which 
“ for a moment seemed likely to mar the harmony 
“ and cordiality of our reception of our gallant 
“ visitors, have disappeared under the strong pressure 
“ of the necessity for maintaining our own repu- 
“ tation for hospitality, and of an equally strong 
“ anxiety to offer our guests a loyal welcome, 
“ on their own account as strangers and yet com- 
“ patriots, and also as the typical representatives 


RIVER DERWENT. 


TASMANIA. 


1 3 1 


“ of the glorious naval service of Britain. It is grati- 
“ tying to see that everything is in train to realize 
“ these aspirations in the happiest and amplest 
“ manner. The hospitable preparations of His Excel- 
“ lency the Governor and Mrs. Dn Cane have for some 
“ time past been communicated to the public. The 
“ Admiral is His Excellency’s guest, as the whole 
“ squadron are the guests of the colony. To-night 
“ officers and colonists will meet in large numbers at 
“ the ball to be given in honour of the squadron at 
“ Government House. And again on Saturday after- 
“ noon Mrs. Du Cane’s ‘ At Home ’ will re-unite them 
“ in the garden party announced some weeks ago, and 
“ for which numerous invitations have been issued. 
“ To-morrow there will be a Town Hall Organ Fund 
“ Concert at the Town Hall. On Thursday night the 
“ Colonists’ Ball takes place at the Town Hall. A 
“ considerable number of tickets has been issued for 
“ this ball, which will probably be graced by the 
“ presence of Admiral Hornby and some 150 officers 
“ of the squadron ; and on Friday there will be a 
“ * Flying Squadron Regatta,’ when the boats of the 
“ squadron will be invited to compete for substantial 
“ prizes, and some formal hospitalities have, we under- 
“ stand, been projected for the petty officers of the 
“ several ships. These arrangements leave ample 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ opportunity for the private hospitalities of those 
“ colonists whose circumstances and position enable 
“ and require them to receive distinguished strangers 
“ and visitors whom the colony delights to honour, 
“ at their own houses, and at their own tables. In 
this rapid glance at the opportunities offered, or to 
“ be offered, for the friendly social intermingling of 
“ colonists and naval officers, we must not omit to 
“ mention that the ships of the squadron are, by the 
“ courtesy of the Admiral, thrown open to the public 
“ daily during their sojourn in the Derwent, from 
“ ten o’clock to sun-down. 

“ The Times recently described the plan of sending 
“ a prince of the blood on a circular visit to the 
“ British colonial possessions as a happy concep- 
“ tion, well calculated to evoke and keep alive the 
“ innate loyalty of Englishmen in all parts of the 
“ world to the Crown and person of the Reigning 
“ Sovereign of the Empire. The satisfactory results 
“ of the visits recently paid to the colonies of the 
“ Empire by the Duke of Edinburgh, and which are 
“ now attending the visit of Prince Arthur to the 
“ Canadian dominion, suffice to prove the correctness 
“ of this observation, and to justify the execution of a 
“ design which does credit to the sagacious statesman- 
“ ship of its author. There is, to our thinking, equal 


RIVER DERWENT. 


TASMANIA. 


133 


“ happiness in the suggestion of a Flying Squadron 
“ visiting in turn the principal naval stations and 
“ colonial ports of the British Empire. By this 
“ means foreigners acquire a juster notion of Eng- 
“ land’s position and capabilities as a naval power ; 
“ and the colonies, which need no information on that 
“ head, are brought bodily, as it were, into contact 
“ with a considerable section, or at any rate with a 
“ large representative sample of the great middle 
“ class of English society and of the masses of the 
“ English people. The Navy has always been the 
“ more generally popular branch of the military forces 
“ of Great Britain. It is unnecessary to inquire now 
“ why this is so. It is sufficient to state the fact. 
“ And certainly we can conceive no likelier and more 
“ effectual method of cultivating the sentiment of 
“ English nationality in colonial communities than the 
“ mission of such a body of English seamen, in such a 
“ fleet as now lies at anchor in the Derwent, on a 
“ flying visit to the principal ports and capitals of the 
“ colonies all round the world. ‘ The expedition,’ we 
“ are told by the First Lord of the Admiralty, ‘ had 
“ ‘ been fitted out for a cruise of sixteen months, 
“ ‘ partly to afford an opportunity to both officers and 
“ ‘ men of acquiring that sort of experience which was 
“ ‘ to be obtained only by cruising in a squadron.’ 


134 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ The long prevalence of peace, and the practice of 
“ isolating our ships on foreign stations— the result of 
“ the peddling economy of the Manchester School 
“ and ‘ Peace-at-any-price ’ party, have rendered the 
“ British Navy somewhat deficient, possibly, in that 
“ concerted action, in which at the close of the last 
“ great naval war— thanks to the admirable discipline 
“ of Jarvis and the ardour and enthusiasm of Nelson 
“ — it stood unrivalled and unapproached by the 
“ navies of that or of any other period of the world’s 
“ history. But this is the technical or professional 
“ side of the question, as suggested by 4 the naval 
“ ‘ advisers of the Admiralty,’ with which we have no 
“ immediate concern. But the moral effect of a visit 
“ of a section of the Navy to the colonies is a matter 
“ which comes home to us all. Such a visit is 
“ admirably calculated to cement, by firm and en- 
“ during ties, the alliance between English and 
“ Colonial populations, of which no Minister who 
“ deserves the name of statesman would contem- 
“ plate the possibility of severance without some- 
“ thing like dismay. Let doctrinaires in politics and 
“ sciolists in economic finance prate as they will of 
“ the worthlessness of the colonies as adjuncts to 
“ England’s greatness, and as a mere source of 
“ expense to the English tax-payer. 




RIVER DERWENT. TASMANIA. 135 

“ The real sense of ‘ the people ’ both in the 
“ Colonies and in the Mother Country, is for union — 
“ close and indissoluble. Here, at any rate, we 
“ should deplore as nothing less than a national 
“ calamity any change in our relations with the 
“ Empire that would compel us to think no more of 
“ the British Navy as part and parcel of our own 
“ national history ; and as the common boast and 
“ heritage of Britons, wherever the accident of birth 
“ or the enterprise of progenitors may have cast 
“ their lot in life. This sentiment which is destined 
“ to bind England and the colonies together, in spite 
“ of the Goldwin Smiths and the Manchester School, 
“ will survive, and, we trust, counteract the maladroit 
“ diplomacy of Colonial Ministers. And we may 
“ thank Mr. Childers for supplying us, in the visit 
“ of the Flying Squadron, with the surest antidote 
“ to the merely utilitarian theories of Mr. Bright and 
“ the unsympathetic anti-colonial policy of Lord 
“ Granville.” 

In the afternoon the vice-regal party, consisting 
of the Governor and Mrs. Du Cane, Mrs. Lambert, 
Archdeacon Reiby, Mr. Chichester, with the Admiral, 
made a tour of the ships, the ladies hanging fire at 
the first one, putting themselves under the charge of 


136 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


a distinguished captain of a frigate, whose previous 
diplomatic career now stood him in good stead, 
and Jlis Excellency continued his round, calling on 
the captains of each ship, and returning to Govern- 
ment House about six o’clock, preparatory to the 
ball, which was to take place that evening at 
Government House, where, at nine o’clock, the doors 
were opened, and the company poured in to be 
astonished at the beauty of the room, or, as our 
correspondent of the Press mentioned, struck with 
the floral decorations, in which nothing was left 
undone to dazzle the vision with the splendours 
of the vice-regal palace. Our correspondent was 
assuredly there, but as we had not the pleasure of 
seeing him, we conclude he came with the fern trees 
that were placed at the back of the dais, which, with 
the lights behind them, produced a very desirable 
effect, and the room itself looked as well as a pretty 
room can look, decorated with an amount of flowers, 
in the profusion of which Tasmania stands unrivalled, 
and arranged with the greatest talent of artistic taste ; 
we may thoroughly congratulate Mrs. Du Cane on 
a rare thing — perfect success ; and as we had heard 
one constant cry in Australia about the beauty of 
Tasmanian women, of “ Wait till you go to Hobarton,” 
we waited ; and as the day drew near, anxiety 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


13 7 


increased to see the room which was to be full of 
dazzling visions, and like most other things in this 
life that you look forward to with interest, we hope it 
will not be considered heresy to say that we were a 
little disappointed as to the amount of beauty in 
it. That there were pretty girls is undeniable, but 
that they were very scarce we think is equally so. 
What nature had not lavished, artifice had usurped the 
place with little winning ways, and many hearts beat 
a shade quicker at the sight of a well-remembered 
Melbourne face; and, without making invidious selec- 
tions, we doubtless think that the Misses R e were 

quite the belles, inclusive of the suffering Aunt 
Laura, who betrayed the sagacity of a great instinct 
on more than one occasion ; and, with all going merry 
as marriage bells, dancing was kept up, with only a 
partial suspension at midnight, when, according to 
our Mercury friend, supper was served in the most 
superb style, the wines and champagne being of the 
choicest qualities, and iced — the fact of the iceing 
having struck the gentleman so much, we are afraid 
he must have bolted a bit in the pantry ; and by 
three o’clock the last white slipper had fled en route 
to its nest, leaving us alone with the thought of what 
we had done which we ought not to have done ; and 
while we were ruminating over the pros and cons 


R 


138 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


and the fragrant tobacco before going to bed, the 
“ Barrosa ” was steaming regretfully out of the 
harbour on her way to Melbourne to pick up the 
Flying Squadron deserters, who had been appre- 
hended, and where she managed to regain four out 
of the multitude. 

Wednesday, January 5th. — The town was kept 
alive during the day by Jack, who was on leave, and 
who also was affording great amusement to the 
people ashore ; and in the afternoon was the picnic, 
given to the squadron by the citizens of Hobarton, 
at a place — Rosny — the opposite side of the harbour 
to the town, where, shortly after one o’clock, the 
“ Kangaroo ” steamer took the givers and their 
guests across, who were shortly afterwards joined by 
the vice-regal party, and to the immense amusement 
of the spectators, many of the squadron, including all 
the supposed stern and unyielding naval post-captains, 
save one, played at the scientific game of duckstone. 
Great was the company of spectators, and loud the 
applause, when a bearded and decorated captain was 
seen fleeing heedlessly down the lull, pursued by an 
impetuous and hairless midshipman, one of whom, in 
his anxiety to do for the duck, hurled a large portion 
of a rock, without looking to see if anybody’s head 
was in the way. We regret much to say the flag- 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


139 


captain’s was, and the result was a severe and very 
ugly-looking cut under the eye ; but as there was 
no scarcity of medical attendance on the ground, 
who, at the sight of blood, flocked like vultures, 
Captain Hopkins was, we are happy to say, suffi- 
ciently recovered as to put in an appearance at 
luncheon, where we also had the pleasure of meeting 
the gallant major, who had arrived that morning from 
Melbourne in the same steamer which brought two 
young ladies from the same city, who had already 
made so forcible an impression on one of our young 
commanders as to cause that officer several nights of 
doubtful rest, and when the eventful morning arrived, 
we heard that a solitary figure was seen about day- 
break pacing thoughtfully the small wooden pier of 
debarkation, anxiously gazing towards the mouth of the 
river for the then expected steamer, which at last 
arrived, and with it the eagerly looked for. Then 
again the sun shone, and the birds sang, and the 
world looked too bright to last long, as, after the first 
tender clasp of hands on the wharf, a well-known form 
was observed raising himself slowly up the hatchway, 
and springing lightly ashore, displayed, to the almost 
horror of our friend, the cheerful presence of our major, 
who accidentally, of course ; happened to be crossing 
in the same steamer, perhaps for the same purpose, 


140 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


as lie was deservedly beloved by many of the squadron, 
and the meeting was, we believe, as cordial as possible, 
considering a spasm had only just passed through one, 
and then the partial eclipse began, which was destined 
to become at one time almost total. Immediately after- 
wards, Mrs. Du Cane returned to Government House 
under the best of protection, in the shape of the arch- 
deacon ; and shortly after six the company broke up, 
returning to their respective homes, and in the evening 
His Excellency gave a large dinner to the admiral, 
ministers, etc., many ladies and naval officers being 
present. 

The Admiral received a letter, through the Tasma- 
nian Times, from the ladies of Hobart Town, and for 
their sakes we must regret the somethnes hardness 
of the human heart. 

“ Dear Admiral, — 

“We have a favour to ask at your hands, 
“ and knowing how kind and gallant all members of 
“ your profession are to such petitioners as we, it is 
“ with the better grace and more confiding spirit 
“ that we pray you to grant our request. Do, dear 
“ Admiral, move those fine ships of yours from their 
“ present anchorage, where nobody can see them at 
“ advantage, and where they are so difficult of access 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


141 


“ to the ordinary anchorage near the wharf, where 
“ the whole town can have a fine view of them, and 
“ where all can conveniently reach them. You must 
“ know we like to look at the blue coats and gold 
“ buttons (people say the owners of the said coats 
“ and buttons like to look at us), but modesty forbids 
“ our putting this forward as a plea; and we also 
“ like to view their floating home, especially when 
“ they come in a fleet to our shores. Now, please 
“ do be compliant to our earnest wishes, and be 
“ assured every hospitality we can offer will be the 
“ more readily extended to the whole of the crews 
“ under your command. 

“ And your petitioners will ever pray for fair 
“ winds for your squadron when at sea, and sweet 
“ smiles to welcome it at every port it enters. 

“ The Ladies.” 

The result, if any, was not apparent, the anchors 
remaining where they were, and the ships as before 
obscured from the light-blue eyes of Hobart Town. 

Thursday, January 6tli. — The day was devoted to 
the great cricket struggle between the Southern 
Tasmanian Cricket Association and the Flying 
Squadron, the Governor leading his Kingdom 
and the Admiral his Squadron. 


142 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“SOUTHERN TASMANIAN CRICKET ASSOCIATION. 

“ FLYING SQUADRON MATCH. 

“ A cricket match was decided to be played on the 
“ Association Ground, in the Domain, yesterday fore- 
“ noon, between eleven of the officers of the Squadron 
“ and eleven of the above Association. The teams were 
“ — Rear-Admiral Hornby, Lieutenant H. T. Wright 
“ (captain of the eleven), Lieutenant H. O. Pearson, 
“ H. A. Baring, A. H. Bampton, J. Bruce, T. P. 
“ Pearce, R. Prothero, F. B. Eden, D. Henderson, 
“ and R. Sparks. The eleven representatives chosen 
“ by the match committee were — His Excellency the 
“ Governor, Hon. W. L. Dobson, W. Birch, 0. Butler, 
“ E. Butler, M. Coverdale, G. Davies, C. Perry, T. 
“ Sheehy, E. Wliitesides, and T. Whitesides. Umpire 
“ for the Squadron, Midshipman Henderson ; for 
“the Association, Mr. T. E. Hewitt; long-stop, 
“ Mr. T. Sheehy ; wicket-keeper, Mr. George Davies ; 
“ scorer for the Squadron, Midshipman Prothero — 
“ for the Association, Mr. A. K. Chapman. The 
“ weather was propitious, but rather windy. A 
“ large number of spectators assembled both inside 
“ and outside the enclosure, and several carriages 
“ and equestrians on horseback. In the Pavilion 
“ were seated a goodly number of ladies and gen- 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


143 


tlemen. At the south-west end the Governor’s tent 
was pitched, in which was a row of American arm- 
chairs, in which sat His Excellency, the Hon. Mrs. Du 
Cane, Mr. C. M. Chichester, A.D.C. ; Mrs. Lambert, 
Sir Valentine and Lady Fleming, Sir Francis 
Smith, Hon. T. D. Chapman, and other notabilities. 
The fine band of Her Majesty’s ship “ Endymion,” 
in a marquee, performed during the day. A 
spacious refreshment booth for the cricketers and the 
public stood on the north-east side of the cricketers’ 
storehouse, erected and kept by Mr. Cowburn, of the 
Jolly Hatters, Melville-street, who had also in close 
proximity a booth for the dispensing of liquids. 
In addition there were two or three private tents. 
The concourse of spectators greatly increased 
towards the afternoon, and much interest was mani- 
fested by them in the game. About 11 o’clock the 
squadron eleven were sent to the wickets. Shortly 
after two o’clock the cricketers retired to luncheon, 
His Excellency the Governor being at the head of 
the table. They resumed the play in about three 
quarters of an hour. Lieutenant Pearson and Sub- 
Lieutenant Baring began the match, C. Perry and T. 
Whitesides being the bowlers. After scoring four, 
Pearson was caught out by His Excellency, amid 
loud cheers. C. Perry gave up bowling, and 


144 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ was succeeded by E. Butler. Bampton took the 
“ bat in room of Pearson, but was bowled out by 
“ Butler, after scoring thirteen runs. Baring, who 
“ bandied bis bat well, was, however, at length 
“ bowled out by Whitesides, and Bruce went to 
“ the wicket. 

“ The following are the scores : — 

SQUADRON. — First Innings. 

H L. Pearson, c His Excellency, b T. Whitesides ... ... 4 

H. H. Baring, b T. Whitesides... ... ... ... ... 13 

A. H. Bampton, b E. Butler ... 13 

J. A. T. Bruce, run out by H. Birch ... ... ... ... 18 

J. H. Pearce, b E. Whitesides ... ... ... ... ... 14 

H. T Wright, c T. Whitesides, b G. Davies ... 18 

Admiral Hornby, b E. Whitesides ... 4 

R. C. Prothero, c T. Sheehy, b E. Whitesides .. ... ... 4 

F. Eden, not out ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 9 

R. Henderson, b E. Whitesides... ... ... ... ... 0 

R. Sparks, b E. Whitesides ... ... ... 1 

No ball, 1 ; byes, 7 ; wides, 5 ; leg byes, 5 ... 18 

116 

ASSOCIATION. — First Innings. 

T. Whitesides, run out ... ... ... ... ... ... 34 

G. Davies, c Bruce, b Knight ... ... ... ... ... 0 

E. Butler, b Knight ... ... ... ... ... ... 20 

C. Perry, b Bampton 28 

W. Birch, c Bruce, b Sparks 22 

Coverdale, b Pearson ... ... 17 

His Excellency, c Wright, b Bampton... ... ... ... 1 

E. Whitesides, b Bampton ... ... 1 

C. Butler, leg before wicket, b Pearson 0 

W. L. Dobson, not out 1 

T. Sheehy, run out, Bampton ... 1 

Byes, 10 ; leg bye, 1 ; wide balls, 10 ; no ball, 1 ... 22 


147 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 145 

SQUADRON.- -Second Innings. 

H. L. Pearson, c C. Butler, b C. Perry ... ... ... 19 

F. Eden, b E. Butler ... ... 4 

H. A. Baring, c T. Whitesides, b E. Whitesides 0 

A. H. Bampton, b C. Perry ... ... ... ... ... 0 

J. P. Pearce, b E. Whitesides ... ... ... ... ... 21 

H. T. Wright, b C. Perry 0 

J. A. T. Bruce, e T. Whitesides, b E. Whitesides ... ... 5 

Admiral Hornby b C. Perry 1 

R. Protbero, b C. Perry .. . ... ... ... ... ... 7 

R. Henderson, not out ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 

R. Sparks, stumped Birch, b T. Whitesides 3 

No ball, 1 ; byes, 10 ; wide balls, 4 .. ... ... 15 


80 

“ The scores will show for themselves. It was 
“ intended to determine the match by one innings 
“ only, but the Squadron Eleven, to meet the wishes 
“ of their friends, went through their second innings, 
“ which they finished about half-past six o’clock. It 
“ will be seen that the total scored by them in the 
“ first innings was 116, against 147 scored by the Asso- 
“ ciation team, and that the former scored 80 in their 
“ second innings. The batting of Pearce, Bruce, 
“ Wright, and Pearson, on the Squadron’s side, was 
“ first-rate, as was also that of Messrs. Whitesides, 
“ Birch, C. Perry, E. Butler, and Coverdale. The 
“ fielding, too, was faultless. 

“ At the close of the play the band struck up the 
“ National Anthem, and the cricketers and spectators 
“ took their departure;” and in the evening His Excel- 


146 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


lency, as usual, entertained a large party at dinner, 
including the Major and the Miss Blackwoods ; imme- 
diately after which there was a general adjournment 
to the ball given by the colonists of Tasmania in the 
Townliall, where, at a quarter to ten, His Excellency 
the Governor, Admiral, and vice-regal party arrived, 
and were received by a guard of honour of the 14th 
Regiment and “ God Save the Queen ” on entering 
the room, when the real business began ; and there 
we saw some very pretty faces that we had seen at 
Melbourne before, and consequently there also we 
saw our stricken Commander in a see-saw state of 
pleasure and pain ; at one time galled to desperation 
because the elder sister had departed to supper with 
an ancient messmate, who of course had done it on 
purpose ; and the younger one, uncertain, coy, and 
hard to please, was harder to please than ever ; so a 
happy thought being suggested by the ancient mess- 
mate, on his return, ignorant of harrowed feelings, 
that when things are at their worst they must mend, 
it was received with very bare civility; and so fol- 
lowed in rapid succession, heat and cold, pleasure and 
pain, and the feelings of one of the lieutenants of the 
flagship so overcame him that, in the absence of better 
accommodation, the flirtation was carried on in the 
cellar, out of which he was quickly bolted, probably 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


147 


by an ever-watchful rival, the possessor of such 
captivating charms being his innkeeper’s daughter, 
and his selection, though, was undeniably good ; and 
for his sake we sincerely regret the inopportune 
intruder, who frustrated so much. About 400 sat 
down to supper, after which the good old toast of 
“ The Queen, God bless her!” was drunk with three 
times three and one more. 

“ The Chairman (Mr. Wilson) proposed the ‘ Health 
“ ‘ of His Excellency, the Governor,’ and in doing so 
“ said they would all feel gratified by the Governor’s 
“ presence, whose ability in the administration of 
“ the affairs of the colony they all knew. No gentle- 
“ man could be entrusted with those duties better 
“ than His Excellency. 

“ The toast being drunk with all the honours, 

“ His Excellency, on rising, begged to thank the 
“ company sincerely for the kind and cordial manner 
“ in which they had been pleased to respond to the 
“ toast of his health. It gave him sincere pleasure 
“ to take part in the welcome which had been ac- 
“ corded the Admiral and the squadron, which, he 
“ believed, would be an event in the future history 
“ of Tasmania of a memorable character. (Applause.) 
“ He had no wish to resort to the nautical manoeuvre 
“ of taking the wind out of the sails of the Colonial 


148 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


‘ Secretary, who was ready to burst with the eloquent 
£ terms in which he would propose the toast of the 
‘ evening — (laughter) — by making a long speech ; but 
£ as the son of a naval officer, and as having sustained 
£ an office in connexion with the service in England, 
£ and now as Her Majesty’s representative in the 
£ colony, he might express his sincere gratification at 
£ having been able to take any part in suggesting 
£ that the colonists of Tasmania would gladly welcome 
£ tins noble squadron ; and as Her Majesty’s repre- 
£ sentative, he had ventured to represent it to the 
£ powers that be in England how gratifying it would 
£ be to the colony if some slight deviation of the 
£ Admiralty laws of the Medes and Persians were 
£ made as regarded the route of the squadron — (ap- 
£ plause) — and he trusted the Admiral and his officers 
£ would never have to regret it ; but when the perils 
£ and dangers of the cruise of the Plying Squadron 
£ had terminated, their week’s visit to Hobarton 
£ would be amongst the sunniest of their recollections, 

£ and more especially of the fairer portion of creation. 

£ (Applause.) 

££ The Chairman then asked the company to join 
‘ with him in drinking the £ Health of their gallant 
£ £ visitors, Rear-Admiral Hornby and the officers of 
£ £ the Flying Squadron.’ They were met to offer a 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


149 


“ welcome to them, and to do them honour. They 
“ were welcome to the shores of Tasmania for the 
“ sake of the noble service of which they were the 
“ representatives ; they were now welcome, since they 
“ had known them on their own account. (Cheers.) 
“ As English colonists they were proud to see such a 
“ squadron in their waters as they had witnessed 
“ during the week, and they must always look back 
“ with pleasure on this auspicious visit. To His 
“ Excellency they were indebted for having interceded 
“ with the authorities at home for the noble fleet to 
“ come here. He should only say that they would 
“ long reflect on the satisfaction and happiness which 
“ the visit of the fleet of noble ships to the waters of 
“ Tasmania had caused, not only to those who were 
“ present, but to the entire community. He trusted 
“ that when the squadron took its departure — for its 
“ visit could not be prolonged — the gallant Admiral 
“ and his officers would carry with them some happy 
“ recollections of Tasmania when they were far dis- 
“ tant. (Cheers.) They should look with some degree 
“ of interest to the future of the squadron, and in 
“ time to come the colony would feel proud to recol- 
“ lect their visit here. 

“ The toast was then drunk with three times three, 


“ several times repeated. 


150 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


“ The Admiral, who was received with a fresh 
“ demonstration of esteem, asked to be allowed on 
“ his own behalf, and on behalf of the officers of the 
“ Flying Squadron, to return their sincere thanks, not 
“ only for the way in which they had received the 
“ toast and good wishes expressed, but generally for 
‘‘ the kind reception they had received here and else- 
“ where. It was quite true that their fortunate 
“ brethren, who had been able to spend a longer time 
“ here, had been able to give flattering accounts of the 
“ colony; in other lands they had told of the beauty 
“ of the climate, the beauties of the scenery, and other 
“ beauties — (a laugh) — but, above all, of the great 
“ friendliness with which their countrymen had received 
“ them here ; but they (the Admiral and officers) could 
“ take up the tale for themselves, and with sincere 
“ satisfaction repeat those tales, not only in the same, 
“ but in an exaggerated form. His Excellency had 
“ alluded to the manner in which the squadron had 
“ come here. Now, although the Board of Admiralty 
“ was accustomed to be abused — (a laugh) — it was an 
“ ill wind that blew nobody any good, and the 
“ Admiralty did them good when they directed them 
“ to come to this magnificent harbour. (Applause.) 
“ The Colonial Secretary had talked of perils the 
“ squadron would still have to encounter, and that 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


151 


“ was one of those pleasant remarks which had been 
“ made to him before. It had been said that when 
“ they went from New Zealand they would lose their 
“ ships ; his own was to go down, others were to fall 
“ on rocks ; and truly, if they chanced to make so much 
“ wreck of their ships as the ladies had made of the 
“ hearts of the officers, they would not have much 
“ chance. (Laughter.) Thanking them for the kind 
“ manner in which the company had listened to him, 
“ he begged to drink their healths. (Applause.) 

“ His Excellency and the Admiral then returned to 
“ the large hall, and another relay proceeded to the 
“ supper -room. Dancing was continued until an ad- 
“ vanced hour in the morning, and the company 
“ generally, the younger portions in particular, will 
“ long remember the satisfaction produced at the 
“ colonists’ ball to the squadron officers.” 

And it was not until Friday’s sun gave unmistakable 
warning of his approach, that the company, lingering 
on as long as hapless chaperones could stave off 
nature’s rights, cloaked, hooded, and fled before the 
searching rays of the summer’s dawn. 

Friday, January 7th, was a general holiday, and 
ushered in by a glorious Tasmanian summer’s morn 
— a royal day for the people, who came down from 
all parts to see the five ships from the Mother 


152 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Country, and to enjoy a gala day. Very early in 
the morning there were fourteen or fifteen thousand 
people on the banks of the river, and shortly after 
eleven o’clock the regatta commenced, with a pro- 
gramme of as nearly as possible alternate races for 
civilians and the squadron, the whole arrangement, 
as well as the onerous duties of settling- blue- 

o 

jackets’ disputes, being carried out by a committee 
composed of civilians and three lieutenants of the 
squadron, who were entertained at a sumptuous 
lunch in the committee-booth ; on which occasion, 
one of the squadron committee-men, thinking of his 
previous night’s defeat, in returning thanks for the 
ladies, becoming a little confused, expressed a wish 
to see more of them, which was received with tumul- 
tuous applause. We must apologize for raking these 
old stories up, and only do so in case that mothers, 
sisters, and those dear at home, watching with anxious 
eyes the career of their darling in distant lands, should 
think the remark odd on his part, and to assure them 
that the champagne luckily was good, and the mean- 
ing wished to be conveyed was to stay longer with 
them. At one o’clock His Excellency embarked in 
the “ Liverpool’s ” barge, to pay his official visit to 
the Admiral, being received by the squadron with 
manned yards and the usual salutes, which was 



H E CHARLES DUCANE, ESQ“ VISITING THE SQUADRON, RIVER DERWENT. TASMANIA 



RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


153 


returned by the battery ; the Admiral entertaining 
His Excellency and party, with the Ministers, Heads 
of Departments, our Major, etc., -with their better 
halves [not the Major’s], at luncheon ; after which 
formality was disposed of, the ladies commenced 
to arrive for an afternoon dinner ; foremost amongst 
whom were the Miss Greenwoods, who, we regret 
to say, were attired for the road and not for society, 
and who shortly left us forlorn, en route for the 
Squadron Eden at New Norfolk, and immediately 
afterwards we lost the company of the three-striped 
fly, struggling in a web with two ruthless spiders 
(we are happy to say that salt water has fully sus- 
tained its curative properties and the much-mangled 
heart is once more whole). Then happened a small 
incident during the afternoon’s entertainment, which 
detracts very visibly from the general notion of 
the gallantry of the British naval officer. A 
young, gushing, and slightly eccentric fair one, 
having for a partner a young, but not very gushing 
lieutenant, suggested, as they paused exhausted, during 
an interval in the mazy dance, in a mild and gentle 
voice, that they really got on so nicely together, that 
she thought they might try another dance, and he 
most ungallantly, not reciprocating the tender passion, 
treacherously placed the confiding one’s name down 


T 


156 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


rially affecting the packing of the box, and drawing 
on his head the anathemas of sixteen infuriated 
ladies ; under some circumstances the head may- 
have been supposed to have been a lucky one, but 
hardly with the thermometer at ninety degrees. At 
the conclusion of the performance the house gave 
three cheers for His Excellency, Mrs. Du Cane, and 
three for the Admiral, who seized the opportunity 
of turning round to place a bowl of flowers about 
two feet in diameter, whioh had previously been on 
the cushion in the Governor’s box, on to the top of 
an old lady’s shoulder in the pit. We congratulate 
the old one on the escape of her head, as dissolution 
would have been inevitable; as it was, a severe shock 
only to the system was the result, and we must hope 
there was not a similar one to her loyalty, as the 
old lady had shown her appreciation of Her Majesty’s 
representative by violently waving her gingham. 
Afterwards there was a large supper entertainment 
at Government House. 

Sunday, January 9th. — In the morning the ships 
were crowded with visitors of all classes of the com- 
munity, to enjoy the novelty of ship and short service. 
The vice-regal party went on board the “ Liverpool,” 
and the head of the Tasmanian Church preached on 
board the “Endymion.” The afternoon was devoted 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


157 


to tender partings of a very non-ordinary order, all 
Hobart Town and the surrounding country being 
largely sprinkled with weeping men and wailing 
women, the hospitable house of beauty at New Town 
becoming temporarily a house of woe, the heaviest 
sufferers being those that recklessly stayed for evening 
service, tea, etc., and finishing almost fatally with 
poor mamma going to bed with such a headache. In 
the evening, His Excellency gave his farewell enter- 
tainment to the Flying Squadron, and prayers for the 
safety of the squadron were read by the Bishop at 
the evening service in the Cathedral. 

“ Tasmanian Times,” Monday, 10th January, 1870. 

“ This morning wall witness the departure from our 
“ shores of the Flying Squadron. It is impossible not 
“ to part with it without regret, but we may console 
“ ourselves with the reflection that our guests of the 
“ past week have enjoyed their visit, and that all has 
“ been done that could be done, without extravagance 
“ or ostentation, in the way of welcome. The proverbial 
“ hospitality of Government House has well sustained 
“ the credit of the colony in this particular ; nor have 
“ the colonists been wanting to themselves either in 
“ the public or private entertainment of their naval 
“ visitors. And we venture to believe that their Tas- 


158 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


“ manian sojourn will not furnish Admiral Hornby and 
“ his officers with the least sunny recollection of their 
“ sixteen months cruise round the world. The Regatta, 
“ too, was a happy suggestion for affording some 
“ opportunity for entertaining and amusing the ships’ 
“ companies of the fleet, and bringing them into con- 
“ tact with the mass of the population. In short, the 
“ visit of the Flying Squadron has, we think, fully 
“ answered the expectations, so far as this colony is 
“ concerned, both of those by whom it was despatched 
“ from England and of the Governor, at whose, sug- 
“ gestion Hobart Town was added to the original 
“ programme of British ports to be visited. His 
“ Excellency is himself the son of a post captain in 
“ the Navy, while Lord Lyndhurst, Mrs. Du Cane’s 
“ father, was the zealous and eloquent advocate in 
“ Parliament of the paramount necessity of main- 
“ taining the British Navy at a standard of efficiency 
“ second to that of no first-rate European Power. 
“ These circumstances may account naturally enough, 
“ for His Excellency’s anxiety to see the Flying 
“ Squadron at anchor under Government House 
“ windows. But he is none the less on that 
“ account entitled to our acknowledgements for his 
“ successful endeavours to secure for Hobart Town 
“ the great and unprecedented pleasure of a visit 


RIVE I? DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


159 


“ from six men-of-war under the flag of a Rear 
“ Admiral. 

“ It has been well said that in our intercourse with 
“ gentlemen of the naval profession ivlio have visited 
“ Australian waters we have had some very lofty 
“ examples. Indeed, the experience the colonists have 
“ had of naval officers has created a general impression 
“ of their urbanity and kindliness, of their promptitude 
“ to succour the distressed, to rescue their country - 
“ men in danger, and to go to their relief, although 
££ at the risk of their own lives. It is not now for 
££ the first time that Tasmania learns what they are, 
££ or feels that they deserve the hospitality and good- 
££ will of which they have always been the objects. 
“Nor can we forget of how much the flag under 
“ which they sail is the emblem and the type. £ The 
“ £ sound and almost universal sentiment (says a 
“ £ Sydney contemporary) of the British colonist is 
“ £ one of respect and affection for that symbol of his 
“ £ country’s power. Upon every seaman a part of 
“ £ this glory is reflected, until he has forfeited it by 
“ £ misconduct disgraceful to the British name, or 
“ ‘ sentiments which are not in harmony with his 
“ £ profession. The gentlemen who are on board the 
“ £ squadron come with the prestige of their country 
“ £ and their calling, They land, wearing the uniform 


160 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


“ £ which all nations have learnt to respect. They are 
“ ‘ welcomed as men who speak our language, who 
“ * share our habits, who come from our ancient 
“ ‘ homes, who bring with them the warm sympathies 
“ £ of our race, and who, in going away, will carry 
“ ‘ with them our best wishes for their posterity — 
“ ‘ wishes which they will reciprocate by a pleasant 
“ £ remembrance of the colonies they have traversed.’ 

“ Australia owes much to the naval service of 
“ England. It was discovered by the illustrious Cook. 
££ Flinders, Franklin, Fitzroy, Denham, and the ill- 
££ fated and lamented Burnet, are all names that will 
££ long be remembered with honour in these colonies, 
££ whose merchant shipping owes its safety at sea to 
“ the accuracy and fidelity of the conscientious ex- 
££ plorations of naval surveyors ; while there is never 
“ an hour in the day when some ship of commerce is 
“ not comparing the charts of those distinguished 
“ men with their own position, and deriving a sense 
££ of security from the belief that whatever is set 
“ down had been inserted under the fullest impression 
££ of its truth, and after the necessary precautions had 
“ been taken to ascertain it. On these, and on many 
“ other considerations of common nationality and 
“ pride in our country’s honour and naval fame, the 
££ ships and officers of the Royal Navy must ever be 



StaruhtJ/fe I.imdon. 


THE LAST OF THE ABORIGINALS, (LADY) 






TASMANIA 




RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


161 


“ welcome to us, whether they visit us on a peaceful 
“ errand as passing guests, or in cause of science, or 
“ as our succourers and defenders in times of war 
“ and in the hour of danger. They constitute for us 
“ the embodiment of the most thoroughly national 
“ and popular element of British institutions. And 
“ we now bid them heartily farewell, and wish them 
“ God-speed on their voyage of duty and their mis- 
“ sion of peace. Go where they may, our best wishes 
“ for their safety and comfort will follow them till 
“ they reach once more, in the old land, ‘ the haven 
“ ‘ where they would be.’ And go where they 
“ may, we venture to believe they will carry with 
“ them a pleasing recollection of their Tasmanian 
“ welcome.” 

From an early hour in the morning the bank 
of the river gradually became alive with people to 
look their farewell on the soon departing squadron. 
At 9 o’clock His Excellency, Mrs. Du Cane, Mrs. 
Lambert, Mr. Chichester, and the Archdeacon went 
on board the “Liverpool,” to go down the river as 
far as the Iron-pot Lighthouse, at the mouth ; and 
by 10 a.m., the squadron were all a-weigh, the only 
drawback for sailing-ships, being the almost total 
absence of wind, which failed altogether when the 


u 


162 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


“ Liverpool ” tried to start, and when the ladies 
clustered on the bank, evidently meditating going on 
board by means of the stern ladder, she was obliged 
to anchor, and be towed in the middle of the stream 
by the “ Southern Cross ” T S S, where there was a 
light air from the southward, making it a dead heat 
out of the river, evidently with the intention of allow- 
ing time to see the scenery, which was too lovely for 
pen and ink to give an idea : the town, at the head 
of a small bay on the bank of the river, covered with 
waving bunting, of every shade and colour, and appa- 
rently nestling itself under the shadow of Mount 
Wellington, frowning ruggedly in the back ground ; 
the whole scene being lighted up by thousands of 
people, the greater portion wearing muslin dresses, 
clustering on every bank and point to kiss a hand or 
wave a handkerchief ; and as the eye travelled higher 
up the river, and you saw the most picturesque of 
Colonial Government Houses rising apparently out of 
a scarlet hill, the banks one mass of geraniums, you 
came to the conclusion that nature had been singu- 
larly lavish to this, the fairest land on earth for Saxon 
homes. 

The beating out was commencing to get rather 
tedious, until the “Liffey” and “ Scylla” relieved the 
monotony by testing the properties of the wooden 


RIVER DERWENT, TASMANIA. 


163 


ram, “ Liffey ” getting off worst, carrying away jib- 
boom, dolphin -striker, and spritsail-gaff, and injuring 
some men, the “ Scylla ” only losing her fore-chain 
plates ; and as “ Liffey ” anchored immediately, they 
fell clear, and shortly after half-past four “ Liffey ” 
weighed again under a double-reefed foretopsail. 
The “ Southern Cross ” and “ Monarch ” (Tasmanian 
steamers) accompanied the squadron, crowded with 
extra ambitious people, to see the last ; and at five 
o’clock, as the Iron-pot was some considerable dis- 
tance off, and the wind, if possible, more fitful than 
ever, the vice-regal party deserted the “ Liverpool ” 
for the “ Southern Cross,” and steaming round the 
squadron, were received by each ship with threo 
times three, bands playing, etc., the prevailing tunes 
being “ Auld Lang Syne,” “Good-bye, Sweetheart,” 
“ The Girl I left behind,” etc. ; and what we may alto- 
gether call an enthusiastic ovation, that was certainly 
sincere, and was the only opportunity given, of showing 
the squadron’s appreciation of the pleasant days spent 
in Tasmania, and the never-ending hospitality of 
Government House. As the steamer turned her head 
back again to the town, the most sanguinary were com- 
pelled to reconcile to themselves the ghastly fact that 
the last link was severed, and experiencing with the 
reconciliation, an uncomfortable choking sensation, 


164 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


well known to the outward-bounder. Shortly after 
the steamer disappeared, the hardly-perceptible air 
became imperceptible, forcing the squadron to anchor 
still inside the river, and with the point just in sight, 
behind which lay the town that contained so many ; 
so much ; and which was watched with such anxious 
eyes till darkness hid it from view, in the wild hope of 
an enterprising steamer making its appearance as a 
profitable speculation. 

The next morning, at 4 a.m., the squadron weighed 
under sail with a light breeze from the S.W., which 
increased as we opened Storm Bay, starting us fairly 
on our way, and then gave way to a fresh N.E. breeze 
with heavy rain ; the wind remaining variable until noon 
of the 14th, when we were again bowling along before 
the brae west winds ; passing 10' to the northward of 
the Snares on the morning of the 16th, then hauling 
up the East Coast of New Zealand, and the winds 
becoming light and variable, anchored off Port Levy 
Rocks, outside Port Cooper (the Harbour of Lyttleton), 
the wind being very light, the tide very strong, and 
both coming dead out of harbour, at half-past seven in 
the evening, that day counting as a harbour one out of 
the liberal number allowed, and we congratulated our- 
selves on having accomplished the feat of crossing the 
cold, bottomless sea, torn by Arctic currents, swept by 


POET COOPEE, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 165 

Polar gales, and traversed in all weathers by a 
mountainous swell, without encountering any one of 
those peculiarly disagreeable freaks of Nature, and 
agree with Blackwood’s Democracy beyond the seas, 
that the author of “Greater Britain’s Sketches” are 
singularly vivid. 

At 4 a.m. next morning, Wednesday, 19th, weighed 
under sail, and beat three miles up a narrow bay 
against a light foul wind, the “Liverpool” anchoring 
at half-past eight, and some of the ships not arriving 
in their berths until the afternoon ; nevertheless, 
according to Act of Parliament, it was another of the 
limited number of harbour days, on a very com- 
pressed principle. Immediately after the “ Liverpool ” 
anchored, Mr. Rolleston, the Superintendent of Canter- 
bury, went on board to welcome the Admiral, and also 
to express the great pleasure with which the aristo- 
cratic and prosperous province of Canterbury welcomed 
the squadron from the Mother Country, notwithstand- 
ing that at the time New Zealand was writhing in 
gall, under the influence of, perhaps, one of the most 
injurious despatches that ever left our colonial office, 
and the benefit of which we have yet to reap, as the 
time is not yet ripe, but when it is, we shall probably 
find a great change in the geography of the Southern 
Ocean, and one hardly palatable to a true Englishman. 


166 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


The conflicting state being fully appreciated in the 
colony. The Great Power that was able to send six 
large men-of-war to her most distant colonies, and 
the yet greater one which the grasping Manchester 
School had gained, in order to enable them to dictate a 
Colonial Minister’s despatch ; and as that despatch and 
the squadron arrived in New Zealand about the same 
time, we venture to think the feeling of the North and 
South Island in respect to it were somewhat antago- 
nistic, the South being one of unbelief that it could be 
possible for the great country, still looked to as being 
and called Home, of Great Britain, to wish to separate 
herself from her colonies, especially New Zealand, bone 
of her bone, as undoubtedly she is, while, on the other 
hand, a very general feeling in the Northern Island 
was, that it must be a matter of a very short time, 
and the sooner the amputation was over, the sooner 
the healing process would commence ; but from high 
to low there was but one feeling, and that, of uni- 
versal condemnation at the despatch which bore Lord 
Granville’s name. And whatever happens in those 
distant parts of our dominions, whether it be a 
Federation of the Australian Colonies, Tasmania, 
and New Zealand, under one great Southern Re- 
public, or whether New Zealand stand aloof from her 
great Sister Isle, we do not expect to wait long 


PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 167 

to see the introduction to the dismemberment, and 
at the same time we must totally disagree with 
the Author of “ Greater Britain,” when he casually 
remarks that the power of his favourite country, 
America, is predominant in the Pacific, which we 
doubt exceedingly ; that the Sandwich Islands are all 
but annexed — to which statement we beg entirely to 
differ ; and concluding with the extraordinary assertion 
that Japan is all but ruled by America, which, to any 
one with the slightest knowledge of that country, is so 
utterly absurd that we must regret exceedingly to 
think that his information on so great a point should 
have been so singularly erroneous. We here give the 
opinion of the Melbourne Press, which went the round 
of the colonial papers. 

“ Earl Granville’s Policy. 

“(From the Argus.~) 

“ The colonial policy of the Imperial Government, 
“ as enunciated by Earl Granville in his New Zealand 
“ despatches, is calculated, if persevered in, to produce 
“ a feeling of dissatisfaction and distrust throughout 
“ the whole of the British dependencies. So far as 
“ this colony is concerned, we should be doing it an 
“ injustice were we to permit a doubt to be cast upon 
“ its disposition to accept the responsibility of defend- 
“ ing itself against the ordinary local assaults to which 


168 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ such a community is liable. Without adopting Mr. 
“ Higginbotham’s braggadocio, by which we pledge 
“ ourselves to defend the colonies and assist it against 
“ invading armies and navies, we are all agreed that 
“ the maintenance of the Queen’s authority in Victoria 
“ may be safely entrusted to the hands of the Queen’s 
“ loyal subjects in this land. The language made use 
“ of by Her Majesty’s present advisers, however, has 
“ started a difficulty which ought never to have arisen 
“ in any part of the British Empire. Earl Granville, 
“ in his last published despatch to Governor Bowen, 
“ protests against the Imperial Government being 
“ asked for assistance to sustain a pohcy which it does 
“ not direct, and which it is not able to foresee. 

“ This amounts to a declaration that the Imperial 
“ authorities decline to accept any further trouble or 
“ responsibility, in respect to colonies whose policy 
“ is removed from their direction. This sentiment 
“ is applauded by a portion of the English Press, 
“ and is virtually endorsed by a statesman of de- 
“ servedly high standing — Earl Grey — who, in his 
“ letter to Mr. Youl, upholds the same doctrine 
“ that the responsibility of the Imperial Government 
“ be proportioned to the control it exercises over 
the affairs of the colony. Under the policy thus 
“ proclaimed, it becomes a question for consideration 


PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 169 

“ not only in New Zealand, .but in all colonies 
“ enjoying partially independent government, what is 
the meaning amongst them of the term, Queen’s 
* l authority, which is the nominal source of all legal 
<£ process and final sanction of all legislation ? 
“ Though, fortunately not troubled with a warlike 
“ and restless aboriginal population, Victoria, like 
“ all other countries and sections of countries, is 
“ liable to be harassed by disaffection among certain 
“ portions of her own children. Already in her brief 
“ history have her constituted authorities had to 
“ resist and put down what must, for want of 
<£ better designation, be termed insurrection. Crowds 
“ of ill-advised men rose in arms against the 
“ ‘ Queen’s authority,’ and with opposing arms had 
<l to be strongly encountered. In those days there 
“ was no doubt as to what was implied by the 
“ ‘ Queen’s authority,’ and little difficulty found in 
“ resolutely maintaining it. Supposing, however, in 
“ the present day, a section of the population of 
“ Victoria were to declare itself dissatisfied with 
“ the existing rule, and take up arms against it, 
“ what position would the loyal subjects of the 
“ Queen, and especially Her Majesty’s representatives, 
“ occupy in the eyes of Earl Granville and those 
“ who endorse the sentiment he has expressed ? 


x 


3 70 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ People not gifted with the ruthlessly logical 
“ acumen upon the possession of which Earl Granville 
“ has been complimented, have hitherto presumed that 
“ the presence of the Queen’s representative as 
“ governor of a colony sufficiently demonstrated that 
“ her Majesty had still a voice in ‘ directing the 
“ policy ’ of the colony, and was able, to some extent, 
“ to c foresee ’ it. Such being the case, it was never 
“ doubted until now that what is known as the 
“ Queen’s peace would, if necessity arose, be enforced 
“ to the utmost of the Queen’s power. The colonists, 
“ in short, regarded themselves as resting, in common 
“ with other English subjects, under the aegis of the 
“ English throne, and as certain of protection, if they 
“ stood in need of it, as if they resided in Middlesex. 
“ The new law on this head, which is being propounded 
“ by the mouths of English statesmen, comes upon 
“ them with the force of a startling novelty. Ground 
“ which they had imagined to be unassailable is sud- 
“ denly cut from under them, and they are no longer 
“ able to forecast with certainty what would be the 
“ course the Queen’s representative might be in- 
“ structed to take in the extremely unlikely event of 
“ a rebellion occurring. So far as this colony is con- 
“ cerned, as we have said, it is quite capable of pro- 
“ viding for its internal tranquillity without asking for 


PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 171 

“ active support from England. The point at issue 
“ is — How does it stand if deprived of moral sup- 
“ port ? The great mass of the people of Victoria 
“ is, doubtless, well affected towards the ride of the 
“ Queen; but here, as elsewhere, it is not impossible 
“ to suppose there may be a section of the com- 
“ munity rashly desirous of the colony enjoying a 
“ premature independence. In the event of the 
“ latter making its presence actively felt, would those 
“ who rushed to uphold the Queen’s authority find 
“ that they were contending on behalf of a shadow ? 
“ Would the authority they sought to support melt 
“ away in the heat of the conflict ? 

“ It would seem, from the terms of Earl Granville’s 
“ despatches, that what he terms the Imperial Go- 
“ vernment is something quite apart from and in- 
“ dependent of the nominal control of the Crown ; 
“ otherwise he could scarcely have so completely over- 
“ looked the fact that every colony, no matter how 
“ free may be its local administration, possesses, as a 
“ part of its governing system, an official who repre- 
“ sents the Queen, without whose sign -manual no 
“ money can be expended, and no Act of Parliament 
“ become law. Surely so long as this is the case, 
“ the Queen retains a directing influence over the 
“ policy of every colony, and cannot disown her 


172 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ authority when troubles arise. According to Earl 
“ Granville, she rules only when all is peaceful and 
“ pleasant ; if a storm threatens, she can lend neither 
“ active assistance nor moral support. Is this how 
“ we are taught to regard the sometime proud 
“ position of forming a part of the British Empire ?” 

Shortly after twelve o’clock, the Admiral went 
ashore with Mr. Rolleston at Lyttleton, which was a 
good two miles from the anchorage, and where a 
special train was waiting to take the officers to the 
Canterbury Races, which, unfortunately, very few 
could avail themselves of, owing to the requirements 
of Her Majesty’s ships after arriving in harbour ; but 
towards the end of the day a good many arrived at 
the course, where the stand and racing were both 
conducted in a way that would have done credit to 
an English county, and where the committee, assisted 
by Mr. Cracroft Wilson, of Indian fame, performing 
the onerous duties of Judge, showed how heartily 
they welcomed any one from home, as those bred and 
born in the colonies still prided themselves in calling 
the Mother Country, and in which they were ably 
supported by the fair of Canterbury, who ornamented 
the stand, and who were pleased to be exceeding 
gracious to those whose paths were on the great 


POET COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 178 

waters, and .after a capital day’s racing, an adjourn- 
ment was made back to Cliristcliurcli by rail and 
road, about six miles, where the club was overrun 
by the squadron, to the detriment, we are afraid, of 
members, who placed that exceedingly pleasant 
house at the disposal of the officers. In the evening 
Mrs. Studholme’s ball took place, in celebration, we 
hope, of her husband’s winnings with his game old 
horse, Knottingley. 

The next day, Thursday, January 20th, there was 
a great rendezvous at the club, where the break and 
six, driven by Mr. Cole, the Premier of coachmen, 
was provided for the Admiral, Mr. Rolleston, and 
a number of gentlemen, including many of the 
squadron, in a way that those who sat behind, unac- 
customed to New Zealand driving, will not easily 
forget, especially the hand-gallop turn at the stand, 
where the company being safely deposited, the racing 
began, and bookmakers also striving to realize coinage 
out of the squadron, on the principle, we suppose, 
that only the fool of the family goes to sea, but we 
are afraid that they were not altogether successful, 
as it appeared that the naval officers had every 
intention of keeping the little they had amongst 
themselves; where we had the pleasure of meeting 
Colonel H n, well known in Her Majesty’s 


174 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


Navy, and who, we hope in course of time, will carry 
a marshal’s baton in his adopted land. The racing 
was decidedly good, and the day unexceptionable, 
the only misfortune being that when Mr. Studholme’s 
old horse stretched himself, no weight they could 
legitimately make him carry appeared to have any 
effect on him, his only compeer at all being a horse 
of such decidedly peculiar manners and indifferent 
temper, that he seldom cared about winning, but 
when he did he could frequently accomplish it. His 
worthy owner, who was always obliged to hold him- 
self in readiness for such an event, had to employ 
a policeman at an exorbitant rate to station himself 
at a neighbouring gate, about two hundred yards 
from the post, in order that when his colours were 
seen first by the post, the gate was to be immediately 
secured, as usually when the noble animal won, he 
was so pleased with himself, that never slacking pace, 
and using the gate as a thoroughfare, he never stopped 
until arrival at his own stall, some miles off, which 
forfeited to his worthy owner the dearly won stakes ; 
the only drawback of the day being the total absence 
of petticoats from the stand, the ladies undergoing 
a quiet preparation before the ball, of sofa, tea, 
and gossip, the ball being held in the Town Hall, 
and there all Canterbury that were able to leave their 


175 


PORT COOPER, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 

sheep, it being the shearing season, were assembled 
to welcome the blue and gold, and with the exception of 
the heat, in consequence of the builders having taken 
the precaution of making the windows a fixture, to which 
the black-hole of Calcutta might have appeared chilly, 
a very enjoyable evening was passed, owing in a 
great measure to the unceasing kindnesses and exer- 
tions on the part of Mr. Rolleston and the committee 
to accommodate the seekers for partners, with the 
wished-for ones, in which they were eminently suc- 
cessful ; and we parted regretfully at an hour near 
approaching dawn, with the hopes of meeting the next 
day on board the “ Liverpool.” 

Friday, January 21st. — The Admiral entertained 
about 300 ladies and gentlemen on board the “ Liver- 
pool ” at luncheon, and dancing afterwards, which was 
kept up until six o’clock, when, as dusk was coming 
on, it forced the ladies back again to Lyttleton, a 
distance of two miles, in pouring rain, which, in a 
boat, is doubly uncomfortable, and especially as there 
happened to be a rather disagreeable sea on at the 
time, for which we were truly sorry ; our only hope 
being that after arriving at home, which we were 
glad to hear was done safely, the reminiscences 
on their side were as pleasant as ours ; the only 
guest left on board the “ Liverpool ” being the 


176 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Colonel, who stayed to enliven the company with his 
New Zealand experiences, which took a large portion 
of the night, and a still larger one of gin (for the 
listeners as well), in return for which act of charity 
the gallant Colonel was landed on the rocks abreast 
the ship at daylight, with a pleasing walk of two 
miles and a half over a barren sheep-run, in prefer- 
ence to taking a passage to Wellington. Before 
leaving Canterbury we must give a specimen of the 
Admiral’s correspondence in New Zealand : — 


“ Christchurch, 22nd January, 1870. 

“ To 

“ Lord High Admiral 

“ Hornby commanding 
“ The Flying Squadron &c &c 
Port Cooper. 

“ Sir, 

“ I am by the Grace of God Grandson of 
“ George III and Maitildia Late King and Queen of 
“ Great Britain &c &c &c Issiue of Queen Maitildia II. 
** with the Late Prince of Hanover who was murdered 


POET COOPEE, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 177 

“ in England about the year 1837 I will give a small 
“ sketch of what is my aime I was along with 
“ Victoria about the year 1830 when she assygned 
“ the throne I was gone to Scotland a Child But 
“ Brought to Receive the Crown aloung with liir 
“ She Received the diadiem I Received the Crown I 
“ was a little child in Scotland when Barron George 4 
“ Titled King Endeavoured to Decoy my Grandmother 
“ into Marrage aloung Barron Blytli and Gay when 
“ the cannie Scots was Endeavouring to starve the 
“ baby me So the Dutches of Kent came to look 
“ after her only Heir and offspring of the once illus- 
“ trious House of Brunswick and Hanover I remained 
“ in Scotland until the Death of my Grandmother and 
“ Likewise victoria which was both murdered within 
“ 9 miles of each other. 

“ The Consequence was I was left in the dark untill 
“ lately when They began to Plant so maney Princes 
“ and Princesses the could Tallie with all the Rest of 
“ Europe So I Received Spirits affirming my wrights 
“ to the Crouns So you Holding So High a Station 
“ Eather under George Fiv d or old Isabella Branden 
“ whose family I was carried to Scotland To Be 
“ Brought up in Education as the English Schools 
“ was not Large Enough So your Consideration 


Y 


178 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ will oblidge. The trouth of which I will answer 
“ For. 

“ I am Dear Sir 
“ Yours 
“ Respectfully 

“ Carrying the adopted family name 
“ Adress William Sharp 
“ care of Mr. Hall 
“ Cooper 

“ Kaiopoi 

“ Canterbury 

“ To Lord High Admiral 
“ Hornby 

“ Commanding 

“ His Majesty’s Ships 
“ Port Cooper 

“ On Her Majesty’s Service 
“ Commanding 

“ Gentleman 

“ From Spirits Received I came to the Knowledge 
“ that neather the Marquies of Waterfourd Nor Sir 
“ Colen Camble is dead as Reported But Sent to 
“ Westren Australia as Convicts By Some London 
“ swell mob Gang to come in possession of their estates 
“ I hoop as it becomes A man of Standing as your 



POET COOPEE, LYTTLETON, N.Z. 


179 


“ Calling is I hoop you wile take means to Satisfie 
“ the Report and Realize the Prisoners 

“ Yours &c. 

' “ W. S. 

“ g. 5 d .” 

We regret to say that the Admiral took no steps 
either to release Sir Cohn Gamble, or place William 
Sharp on his rightful pedestal ; but doubtless the next 
history of England will overflow with Mr. Sharp’s 
hardships, and we trust that his spelling will improve 
before he hangs his hat in Windsor Castle, and hope 
the neighbouring school will be of sufficient size, where 
he will also have the advantage of an introduction from 
the Admiral to the Provost. 

In Canterbury, where all had vied to show every 
kindness and possible civility to the squadron, any 
personality would be out of place ; but we are obliged 
to make one exception, on account of the unwearying 
exertion of Mr. Marshman, the General Manager of the 
Railway, to please everybody, running any number of 
special trains for anybody and everybody, either if they 
missed a train, or wished to go up to a ball at night, 
which he certainly succeeded in doing /most completely, 
as regards the squadron ; we do not answer for the 
driver, but almost fancy that even he rather liked the 
excitement for the time, and we only hope that Mr. 


180 


FLYING 8QUADR0N. 


Marsliman knows liow grateful tlie squadron were for 
liis incessant labours, as lie appeared to live on the 
line, day and night, in a chronic state of going back- 
wards and forwards, 40 miles an hour. 

Saturday, January 23rd. — Shortened in cable at 
daylight, and employed until ten o’clock waiting for 
wind, when the squadron weighed with a light foul 
wind, and had to beat out a distance of three miles, 
which feat was accomplished in five hours, and then 
we stood along the coast with a light southerly wind, 
the scenery, as we went on, being very fine, the New 
Zealand range of Alps running all the way along, 
broken , every here and there by a small estuary, re- 
lieving the eye of the monotony of one incessant 
rugged outline. 

And we will give an extract here, though it appeared 
afterwards copied in the Wellington Independent , to 
show that Canterbury appreciated the humble en- 
deavours of the squadron to return some of the kind- 
nesses received : — 

“The reception on board H.M.S. ‘Liverpool,’ 
“ carrying the flag of Rear Admiral Hornby, was so 
“ grateful an acknowledgement of the hurried compli- 
“ ments, public and private, which the sudden arrival 
“ of the squadron only permitted Canterbury to offer 
“ to the representatives of the Royal Navy on the 


181 




PORT COOPER., LYTTLETON, N.Z. 

present occasion, tliat we feel we cannot say too 
much in appreciation either of the elegant hospi- 
tality of Admiral Hornby, of his officers, who so 
heartily carried out his views, or of the well-bred 
courtesy, which pervading the ship, found expres- 
sion in every individual high and low on board. 
The purposes of the Flying Squadron are known 
perhaps only to My Lords of the Admiralty. It is 
not new to us to find English men-of-war clean, 
ship-shape, and formidable, nor their officers 
gentlemen, but if the commission of the Admiral 
included instructions to convey to the colonies 
that sentiment of good feeling and brotherhood 
which obtains amongst Englishmen at home and 
abroad, we take leave to say, the commission could 
not have been placed in better hands. 

“We cannot disguise the fact that such a demon- 
stration is by no means inopportune at the present 
juncture of affairs between New Zealand and the 
home country. Whatever makes England better 
acquainted (as she well needs to be) with the several 
communities forming the colony, or, on the other 
hand, causes our general public to be impressed 
with the friendly feeling^ beforef ;^ ow countrymen, 
is valuable to England a.m., fronjonies far beyond 
the cost of the outfit of tnd, which 


/ 


182 


PLYING SQUADRON. 




“ There may be some discussion about details in 
“ management of the Colonial portion of the British 
“ Empire, but as a writer has observed, Bonaparte, 
“ in describing £ ships, colonies, and commerce,’ did 
“ not see that ‘ colonies ’ meant all three. Let us 
“ trust the Colonial Office may have more sagacity.” 
And the next day was passed making the best of 
our way to the northward, under the shadow almost 
of the frowning range of Alps, with light and variable 
winds, which lasted until the squadron opened Cook’s 
Straits, when it commenced as usual to blow strong 
from either N.W. or S.W., the narrowness of passage, 
with high land on either side, giving it the properties 
of a very efficacious funnel, which we had always 
heard appertained to the passage discovered by 
Captain Cook, and which we have no reason to dis- 
pute, and also for which reason, Wellington has the 
credit, and, we think, deservedly, of having a larger 
annual allowance of winds, than any known spot on 
the habitable globe, so much so, that when you see 
a man in London clutching the brim of his hat 
violently at arriving at the corner of a street, on a 
calm summer’s day, you recognise his native place 
immediately. ghC-.-.xivate, U p h a if_p as t two in 
the afternoon, in 1 on ty P Grn ce of the wind being foul, 
and also too gptatives Her Majesty’s fast-sailing 


PORT NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON. 183 

frigates to beat against, but not to prevent a convoy 
of steamers coming out of the Heads of Port Nichol- 
son, crowded with pleasure seekers, eager to give 
the first welcome to their countrymen, and amidst a 
volley of cheers, waving of hats, hands, and handker- 
chiefs, the squadron steamed slowly through the 
Heads of Port Nicholson in line of battle, anchoring 
off the town of Wellington between half-past five 
and six o’clock, where we found the “ Challenger ” 
and “ Rosario.” 

Immediately after anchoring, Mr. Fox (Premier), 
Mr. Gisborne (Colonial Secretary), Colonel Reader, 
Mr. A. M. Smith, A.D.C. to His Excellency, Sir 
George Bowen, etc., went on board the “ Liverpool,” 
to welcome the Admiral to the new capital of New 
Zealand ; as the seat of government is now at Wel- 
lington, and as soon as the Government House is 
furnished it will also become the place of residence 
of the Governor, and the probable place of call 
of the future Australia-American Ocean line of 
steamers, which will raise it in commercial pro- 
sperity, notwithstanding the violence of the elements. 
We found, as soon as we arrived, that we had been 
anxiously expected the day before, as the squadron 
had been telegraphed at 9 a.m., from the Kaikoura’s, 
going up with a strong wind, which caused the plea- 


184 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


sure steamers to advertise tlie immense attractions of 
six noble sliips under full sail in the offing and the 
peculiar advantages of these individual vessels for 
purposes of sight-seeing, seducing a crowd of the 
unwary, old women, and children, on to the boiling 
waters of Cook’s Straits, for the purpose of replenish- 
ing the owners’ pockets, and emptying a something 
else of their passengers, finally dooming them to 
disappointment and a day of no ordinary mortal 
agony. 

In consequence of the very curtailed stay of the 
squadron, the ball given by Wellington was obliged 
to take place on the evening of arrival; so, shortly 
after nine o’clock, the House of Representatives, which 
had been fitted up for the occasion, became a scene 
of unusual brilliancy, and the theatre of fierce intrigue 
and contention, the first thing to strike a stranger’s 
eye being the novelty of seeing a New Zealand fair 
one whiling away the leisure hour, flirting with a half- 
civilized Maori Chief, who had come in large numbers 
to do honours to the British guests ; and as the supper 
had more attractions for them than the ball-room, they 
soon vacated their ’vantage ground in female favour 
— temporarily only — to their flying and soon depart- 
ing rivals, and where rivalry was at its height, and 
the merry wives were doing all they knew — and that 



Sdvuhifor #■( ft/h. London . 


GROUP OF FERNS 


NEW ZEALAND FOREST 




PORT NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON, N.Z. 185 

embraces no small knowledge — to lure tlieir sailor 
guests, the occasional glance of passing triumph told 
too well how the poisoned arrow had struck home ; and 
without -wishing to be cynical, we should hke to trans- 
plant Mr. Stuart Mill, and show him the effect of what 
is, we think erroneously, called Women’s Rights, and 
what many New Zealand ladies pride themselves on, 
the independence of their women. We are inclined to 
think that the now most violent supporter of the 
scheme would inwardly pray that the British Isles 
might be preserved from such a scourge. After a 
sumptuous supper and a very eulogistic speech from 
Mr. Gisborne (the Chairman), the dancing went on 
until well into the next day. 

Tuesday, January 25th.— The “Barrosa” arrived 
from Melbourne, -with her stragglers, at half-past one 
in the middle watch, and in the afternoon the Governor, 
through his Aide-de-Camp, gave a picnic in his pri- 
vate cottage at Laurie Bay, at which the wives, etc., 
Admiral, Commodore, and a few chosen Captains were 
the honoured guests ; and at the same time a regatta was 
going on between the boats of the squadron under sail, 
which was won by the Admiral’s barge, the “ Scylla’s” 
cutter being second, for a silver cup, given by Mr. 
W. B. Rhodes, J.P., one of the oldest of the New 
Zealand settlers; having arrived in the colony in 1840; 


z 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


186 

the wind, as usual, blowing half a gale ; and in the 
evening Mr. Justice Johnstone entertained the Admiral, 
Captains, etc., at dinner. 

Wednesday, February 26th, was the day of the 
picnic given by Wellington to the squadron on Mr. 
Laing’s grounds at the Hutt, nine miles from town; 
and as the day was lovely as a New Zealand summer’s 
day knows so well how to be, all that was young and 
fair, old and coloured, congregated together to enjoy 
themselves, and show hospitality to the arrivals from 
the old country. A cricket match between Wellington 
and the Squadron was going on at the same time on the 
ground, in which the squadron were victorious, with 
seven wickets to spare, owing to the play of Messrs. 
Pearson and Wright. A large and sumptuous lunch 
was provided in a marquee-tent, and Aunt Sally, 
croquet, flirting, and other enjoyments of the same kind 
caused the time to pass pleasantly; though at one 
time a social squall blackened the horizon, and 
threatened to frustrate the hospitality of Wellington, 
owing to the phrenological bump of egotism being 
more than ordinarily developed, with a distinguished 
officer on the ground ; but owing to a woman’s influ- 
ence, it passed off, and the sun shone once more on all, 
bright and gay. After lunch, Mr. Fox proposed three 
cheers for the Admiral, which was cordially responded 


POET NICHOLSON, WELLINGTON, N.Z. 187 

to ; who, in return, proposed three for the ladies, which 
was enthusiastically received ; after which a general 
adjournment for outside amusements again took place, 
where a vigorous canvass was taking place, on the 
part of two rival dances, which were to take place in 
the evening; and considering that the leading can- 
vassers on the respective sides were of the female sex, 
the dispute was fairly compromised ; and as the very 
fashionable custom of going to several similar enter- 
tainments in the course of the night is not yet in 
vogue in New Zealand to the same extent as else- 
where, we must leave to Wellington and individual 
fancy to decide where the beauty was ; merely remark- 
ing that the wives, and the Wellington belle, whose 
father has since so ably and patriotically represented his 
adopted country’s cause, patronized one ; and as the 
squadron, as usual, were to take their departure at day- 
light, 4 a.m. discovered a meeting of the supporters 
of the rival houses at the Club, where, as our Transat- 
lantic brother phrases it, we guess they confederated, 
and where all feelings of an antagonistic nature 
merged into one of common regret to think the 
two short days allowed in the New Zealand capital 
were nearly over, and that the minutes almost, were 
numbered, before we should be again baffling with 
the turbulent waters which divide the New Zealand 


188 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Islands, and after a parting glass to the next meeting, 
the early outward -bounders wended their weary way 
towards the pier, with only half a leg to stand on 
a-piece, owing to forty-eight hours’ unceasing use of 
those limbs for purposes of dancing by night, boating, 
cricket, picnics, etc., by day; in fact, the captain of 
the Flying Eleven, weary with his great cricketing 
exertions during the day, and heartsore with his 
exertions during the night, was discovered, at 4.15 a.m. 
precisely, in the centre of Wellington Road, seated 
disconsolately on his cricket bag, expressing, we regret 
to say it, a fixed determination of desertion, the at- 
tractions of the opposition dance becoming painfully 
apparent, and we have since heard they were many 
and great ; but we rejoice to say that, after consider- 
able argument, the alien was induced to return to the 
path of duty, for which charitable act of disinterested 
affection, we regret to say, he has not shown sufficient 
gratitude to his salvators; so, after having spent the 
liberal allowance of two days and twelve hours in the 
harbour of the New Zealand capital, which caused 
great dissatisfaction with the good people of Wel- 
lington, as they had gone to a large expense for the 
entertainment of the squadron, which they had every 
reason to suppose would remain the original ten days 
allowed, their reasons were undoubtedly just. Never- 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


189 


theless, 6 a.m. of Thursday, January 27th, found the 
squadron steaming out of Port Nicholson, and directly 
on getting outside, made sail, single reefs and top- 
gallants, to a fiery N.W. wind, which shortly after- 
wards succeeded in blowing the inside out of 
“Phoebe’s” foretopsail, leaving roping only, which 
is more adapted to the squalls which frequent Cook’s 
Straits, and immediately on getting outside the Straits 
and rounding Cape Palliser, the wind fell to light foul 
airs, which continued light and variable until the 
morning of the 2nd, when a fresh breeze springing up 
from the eastward, at 7 a.m. observed Cuvier Island 
ahead, and running before fresh easterly breezes, 
ten and eleven knots, passed between it and Great 
Barrier Island, taking in a reef and stunsails, on 
hauling up the Rangitoto Channel, shortened and 
furled sails on getting inside, and drifted up to the 
anchorage before the wind, escorted by many steamers 
full of holiday seekers, as, it being the regatta day, 
all Auckland was afloat, and the town and shipping 
looking its best, dressed out in its grandest bunting. 
By four o’clock the squadron were all anchored, and 
for the description and feeling of the country towards 
the squadron, we quote the Auckland Southern 
Cross : — 


190 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


“ ARRIVAL OP THE PLYING SQUADRON. 

“ The Flying Squadron arrived in the harbour 
“ shortly before three o’clock yesterday. Simple 
“ as these words are, they are full of peculiar signi- 
“ ficance to us, and open to a train of interesting 
“ reflections. Looking back to the past, we find that 
“ it was in the year 1840 that the British sloop-of- 
“ war, c Herald,’ anchored in this harbour, having 
“ on board Captain Hobson, the founder of British 
“ authority in New Zealand, and the first Governor 
“ of the colony. At that time the site on which 
“ Auckland now stands was a mere waste of fern 
“ and tea tree, the only habitations were the low 
“ squalid wharves of the native owners ; the only 
“ craft that disturbed the surface of the Waitemata 
“ was the canoe of the Maori, or the whale-boat of 
“ the pioneer settler. The place, which is now busy 
“ with the incessant hum and industry of a large 
“ European population, was inhabited only by a 
“ sparse Maori population, subsisting precariously, 
“ and living in the midst of internecine feuds with 
“ neighbouring tribes. Where are now green fields, 
“ and orchards, and well-kept gardens ? there was a 
“ wild waste of fern and moorland, broken only here 
*• and there by patches of rude native cultivation. 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


191 


<£ The tall spire of many a place of worship rears 
“ itself heavenward, where once cannibal orgies and 
“ scenes of strife and bloodshed were daily occur- 
“ rences. Truly a happy change has come over the 
“ place in the course of the thirty years that have 
“ passed since our first Governor, with a rare fore- 
“ sight, fixed upon it as the future capital of the 
“ colony. Yesterday, six British ships of war cast 
“ anchor in our harbour, amidst a scene which could 
“ not fail to be gratifying to a sailor. It was one 
“ of our gala days, the celebration of our anniversary. 
“ Whoever it is that first fixed upon a regatta as 
“ the mode of celebrating that anniversary must 
“ have been a man with singularly proper ideas of 
“ what was graceful and appropriate. There is no 
“ day in the whole year in which Auckland can be 
“ viewed under more favourable aspects. When the 
“ long wharf is half hidden in a forest of spars, 
“ when bunting of every hue floats gaily from 
“ masthead and housetop, when the harbour is dotted 
“ over with the white sails of our numerous coasting 
“ fleet, and when the hills and headlands which 
“ command a view of the scene are crowded with 
“ holiday seekers, Auckland appears to be dressed 
“ in her natural garb; and such a scene was that 
“ of yesterday. Though the number of craft which 


192 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ was collected in our waters was far less numerous 
“ than on many previous anniversary days, it was 
“ still sufficient to convey to the mind of the new 
“ comer a fair notion of the large coasting trade 
“ of which Auckland is the centre and depot. Much 
“ as we may be inclined to regret that the squadron 
“ did not arrive earlier in the day, so as to have had 
“ an opportunity of witnessing the regatta, it is some 
“ consolation to reflect that it did not arrive too late 
“ altogether. Here was a comparatively important 
“ section of the British Navy — that Navy which still 
“ holds the supremacy of the seas — coming 18,000 
“ miles to visit England’s most distant dependency, 
“ coming from a land pre-eminent amongst the nations 
“ of the world for its maritime enterprise and power 
“to a comparatively insignificant portion of that 
“ Great Empire on which the sun never sets, yet it 
“ found a people speaking the Anglo-Saxon race, 
“ having the same customs, enjoying the same free 
“ institutions and privileges, and engaged in laying 
“ a maritime greatness which, at no very distant day, 
“ may be equal to that of the Mother Country itself. 
“ Coming upon us somewhat unexpectedly, it sur- 
“ prised us, as it were, in the midst of that pastime 
“ which is so peculiarly the natural one of our race. 
“ The cruise of the squadron, if it will serve to 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


1 93 






“ remind the people of the colonies that England’s 
“ Navy is still powerful, and that England’s protecting 
“ shield is still over them, will not be without its 
“ advantages as to the fleet itself. Besides the 
“ lessons the crews will learn in practical seamanship 
“ and geographical knowledge, they will acquire a 
“ more adequate notion of the magnitude of that great 
“ Empire whose defenders they are, than ever could be 
“ obtained from the most extensive reading or the 
“ most assiduous study of charts. They will, when 
“ their long cruise is over, have seen much to increase 
“ that national pride which every Englishman ought 
“ to feel. They will have seen the many ramifications 
“ of the Anglo-Saxon race, its peculiar adaptability to 
“ every climate and circumstance, many evidences of 
“ its indomitable energy and fertile ingenuity, and of 
“ the wonderful facility which it possesses of grafting 
“ its free institutions, its religious truths, its arts and 
“ sciences, — in short, its advanced civilization and 
“ enlightenment upon foreign soil. 

“ The arrival of the squadron yesterday took a good 
“ many people by surprise. It was between one and 
“ two o’clock that a string of bunting was run up at 
“ the flagstaff on the North Head. People who have 
“ contrived to master the new signals announced that 
“ the flags meant the arrival of five ships ; and it 


A A 


194 


FLYING SQUAUROX. 


“ was naturally concluded, therefore, that the Flying 
“ Squadron had come. After the lapse of a few 
“ minutes, a scene of unusual excitement could be 
“ discerned on the Flagstaff-hill. By the aid of a 
“ glass, the signalmen could be seen mustered on the 
“ hill-top, as though watching some sight of more than 
“ wonted interest outside. Under ordinary circum- 
“ stances, the mere announcement that the Flying 
“ Squadron was in sight would have been sufficient to 
“ have thrown the whole city into a flutter of excite- 
“ ment; but now, for the time being, the regatta was 
“ the all-engrossing object of interest. Indeed, so 
“ heartily do the good citizens enjoy this annual 
<c holiday, that, if the whole British Navy were sighted, 
“ it would scarcely reduce the interest in the several 
“ events of the day. Therefore, people had almost 
“ forgotten the signals at the flagstaff, when the 
“ large hull of the first vessel glided round the 
“ North Head into full view at about a quarter to three 
“ o’clock. This was the “ Scylla,” and she was fol- 
“ lowed five minutes later by the “ Liverpool,” bearing 
ft the flag of Rear-Admiral Hornby. No sooner were 
c< pjiese two ships espied by the crowd assembled on the 
“ Q u £p n -street Wharf than a ringing cheer was sent 
« f or tb \^nd the s f eamers which had been in readi- 
“ ness duriVlo ^ ie day were rushed to by persons 

V 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


195 


“ eager to obtain a nearer look at the fleet. The 
“ * Favourite ’ and the ‘ Royal Alfred ’ were the first 
“ to put off, with their decks crowded with pas- 
“ sengers, followed by the { Enterprise,’ Nos. 1 and 2, 
“ the ‘ Luna,’ the ‘ Duke of Edinburgh,’ and the 
“ * Samson.’ By this time the third vessel, the 
“ ‘ Endymion,’ had come round the North Head, fol- 
“ lowed at about two minutes to three by the ‘ Phoebe,’ 
“ at three o’clock by the ‘ Barrosa,’ and five minutes 
“ later by the ‘ Liffey,’ the sixth ship of the squadron. 
“ The ‘ Liverpool,’ while shortening sail, was passed by 
“ the ‘ Scylla,’ which in turn shortened sail to allow 
“ the flagship to assume her former position. As 
“ the vessels came up, they were partially _ obscured 
“ by the smoke of the steamers, but these having 
“ proceeded round the fleet, the ships came fully into 
“ view. The sight was one long to be remembered. 
“ Six magnificent ships of war are at any time a 
“ sight worth seeing, but it was such a sight as had 
“ never before been seen in Auckland, and such as 

“ may not be witnessed again for many years to 

■ 

“ come. The vessels came gliding majestically up 
“ the harbour in two lines, the formidable-lookiner 

J O 

“ hulls, with their long tiers of guns and the tall 
“ taut rigging, becoming more and more distinct. 

. “ The beautiful symmetry of the men-of-war was only 


19G 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ equalled by the excellent order in which they 
“ drifted up to the anchorage ground, which they 
“ reached at about twenty minutes past three, in the 
“ following order : — ‘ Endymion,’ ‘ Liverpool,’ and 
“ ‘ Scylla ’ in line on the south side, and the ‘ Plicebe,’ 
“ ‘ Barrosa,’ and ‘ Liffey ’ on the north. The anchor- 
“ ing of the ships was accomplished most expedi- 
“ tiously, and in a surprisingly short space of time 
“ all sail was stowed, and the ships presented that taut 
“ and trim appearance so peculiar to British men-of- 
“ war. Anon preparations were made for a salute 
“ from the regatta flagship, and in a very few minutes 
“ the two guns on the forecastle were manned. A 
“ salute of thirteen guns was fired in excellent time, 
“ under the superintendence of Mr. John Copland, 
“ the first gun being fired at 3.30 p.m. The salute 
“ itself was appropriately followed by three hearty 
“ cheers from the people on board the ‘ City of Auck- 
“ ‘land,’ which were cordially taken up by the crowd 
“ on shore, the band meanwhile playing ‘ Rule, 
“ ‘ Britannia.’ Meanwhile the ‘ Liverpool ’ had saluted 
“ the port in the usual way. A few minutes later, 
“ Captain Young, A.D.C. to the Governor, put off 
“ from the * City of Auckland,’ to convey His Excel- 
“ lency’s welcome to the Admiral, and almost simul- 
“ taneously, Captain Pitt proceeded on board the 



AUCKLAND HARBOUR 



AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


197 


“ ‘ Liverpool ’ from the shore. The fleet were not 
“ long anchored ere the harbour was dotted over with 
“ man-of-war boats engaged in communicating with 
“ the different ships. The steamers also kept plying 
“ to and fro with passengers until a late hour in the 
“ afternoon. At about half-past four, the Naval Artil- 
“ lery Volunteers fired a salute of eleven guns in ten- 
“ second time. The salute was in every way creditable 
“ to our local gunners, who for some weeks past have 
“ been regular in their attendance at drills, in order 
“to be prepared to take over Fort Britomart. The 
“ officers present yesterday were Captain Guilding (in 
“ command), Lieutenant Featon, Lieutenant Le Boy, 

“ Paymaster Hampton, and all the petty officers. 

Shortly after the fleet had anchored, Captain Pitt 
“ left the ‘ Liverpool,’ and proceeded on board the 
“ ‘ City of Auckland.’ About the same time, Admiral 
“ Hornby and his Flag-lieutenant, J. Bruce, went 
“ ashore to Government House, whither also His 
“ Excellency the Governor proceeded at about four 
“ o’clock. The ships of the squadron will be open to 
“ visitors every day while in harbour, from 10 o’clock 
“ a.m. to 4 p.m.” 

And at half-past four the Admiral landed, ampf^ 
accompanied by Colonel Elliot, 18th Regiment/com- 
manding the troops, and Captain Pitt, A.DjCCjto His 


/ 


\ 






108 


FLYING SQUA DIJON. 


Excellency, walked up to Government House to 




pay liis respects to the Governor, Sir George F. 
Bowen, G.C.M.G. We found Lord Pembroke and 
Dr. Kingsley laying there in his yacht, “Albatross,” 
having returned from a cruise among the Pacific 
Islands. 

Thursday, February 4th. — The “ City of Mel- 
“ bourne ” s.s. arrived in the morning, bringing Dr. 
Cowie, the new Bishop of Auckland, as successor to 
Dr. Selwyn ; also a long-tried experiment in the colony, 
the first rooks, we believe, that arrived alive, as well as 
the telegraphic news from King George’s Sound, of the 
death of Sir Sidney Dacres, which caused a profound 
feeling of regret throughout the squadron, but which 
was, happily, afterwards proved to be incorrect. Every 
four-legged animal available in the town was employed 
to carry various members of the Flying Squadron to 
Kama Forest, being a place of great resort, as well 
as the top of Mount Eden, one of the most perfect 
craters itself, and from the summit of which you count 
some almost incredible number, as well as having a 
magnificent view bounded by the Manakau Bar, on the 
West Coast, where the ill-fated “ Orpheus ” was lost, 
t*>„ud on the East Coast, looking down on the harbour 
of Auckland, with the Bangitoto and the Barrier 


Island, g i ythe background. 



AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


199 

In the evening His Excellency entertained the 
Ministers and Heads of Departments, large numbers 
of the squadron officers taking advantage of the 
hospitalities of the Union Club ; and the next even- 
ing, Friday, was the ball given by the Governor and 
Lady Bowen to the officers of the squadron, in the 
room built by the New Zealand Government for the 
reception of the Duke of Edinburgh, and where, for 
the first time, we had the pleasure of seeing the Mid- 
shipman’s watei’proof idol, in the zenith of her glory, 
surrounded by a bevy of adorers, surrendered at 
discretion, as well as the premiere valseuse in the 
room, with half-Maori blood in her veins. The ball 
broke up about half-past two, and the next day, 
Saturday, February 6th, a good many officers went 
to see the Thames Gold Fields ; and in the afternoon 
Lady Bowen gave a garden party at Government 
House, where we had the benefit of seeing all that 
was fair in Auckland and the surrounding country, as 
well as many that had come up from the Waikato on 
account of the war, the band of the 18th playing 
during the afternoon, and in the evening His Excel- 
lency entertained a large party at dinner. 

Monday, February 8th. — His Excellency the Gover- 
nor, Lady Bowen, and Staff, embarked from the 
Wynward Pier at 1 p.m. to pay his official visit to 


200 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the Admiral on board the flagship, where he was 
received by the squadron with all the honours. The 
Admiral entertained the vice-regal party, ministers, 
etc., at luncheon, after which dancing began, and 
continued with much vigour, Britishers and half-castes 
vieing with each other for Terpsichorean supremacy, 
with one brilliant exception, to the indisputable ’van- 
tage of the former. In the evening, the Secret 
Society of Masons entertained their brethren belong- 
ing to the squadron at a ball. 

Tuesday, February 9th, was looked on as the last 
day in the land of civilization for many months, Japan 
being seen through the medium only of many thou- 
sands of miles of unknown sea, with Vancouver’s Island 
afterwards, between four and five months of recruit- 
ment, before running the gauntlet of Hawaiian 
charms. The cricket - match between Auckland 
and the squadron took plane, to our very indifferent 
success. 


“ CRICKET. 

“ AUCKLAND V. FLYING SQUADRON. 

“ The match between the two elevens of Auckland 
“ and the Flying Squadron came off yesterday on 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


201 


£ the ground at the Albert Barracks. During the 
‘ early part of the day there were not many present, 
‘ but during the evening, as the various places of 

* business began to close, there was a fair muster. 

* Owing to some misunderstanding, there was no 
‘ band present on the ground, as had been announced. 

‘ The playing throughout was good — the fielding 
‘ especially so. At the same time, we must not omit 
‘ to chronicle the fact that although the bowling 
‘ was splendid, the batting was not quite up to the 
‘ mark. There was a stiff breeze blowing, but it 
‘ interfered in no material way with the bowling. 

“ During the evening, several games were intro- 
‘ duced, such as running in sack's*--— etc., and both 
‘ juveniles and adults appeared to enjoy lihe fun 
‘ greatly. At about five o’clock his I- ylency the 
‘ Governor, Lady Bowen and suite, together with 
‘ Admiral Hornby and several distinguis/ned visitors, 
‘ came on the ground, and were spectators for some 
£ time. / 

££ A break was made in the first /innings, and the 
“ players and some friends proceeded to a lunch, 
“ which had been hospitably provided' by W. L. Rees, 
££ Esq. 



B B 


202 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ The following is the score : — 

“ FLYING SQUADRON.— First Innings. 

Richmond, b Pocock ... 

Taylor, b Bowen ... 

Prothero, b Bowen .. ... .. 

Baring, b Bowen ... ... ... 

Pearse, c Cotton, b Bowen... 

Wright, b Pocoek ... 

May, b Pocoek ... ... 

Warren, c Kelcher, b Pocock 

Bampton, c Pocock, b Bowen ... 

Sparks, not oat 

Henderson, c Kelcher, b Bowen 

Byes, 12 ; leg byes, 3 ; wides, 2 

i 

Total 

IS, Second Innings. 

Taylo^pre Tlton, b Rees ... 

Baring, Pocock, b Rees ... .. 

Prothero, ]\p c (jj. aD) b Rees 

Sparks, b il(j owen 

pearse, run « out 

Wright, b Poe , Qck 

Richmond, c ^ elclier> b Pococ k 

May, b Pocock 

Bampton, c '^eny, b Rees 

Warren, not out 

Henderson, st ^ cGaQj 

8 ; wides, 1 ; leg byes, 1 

Total 

Grand total 


6 

8 

9 

2 

0 

1 

2 

2 

7 

0 

0 

17 

54 

5 

10 

4 

5 

1 

36 

5 

7 

1 

5 

6 

10 

95 

149 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


203 


“ AUCKLAND. 


Me Gan, b Sparks ... 


... 0 

Pocock, sen., b Taylor 


... 30 

Mumford, c Wriglit, b Sparks 


... 0 

Bowen, b Taylor ... 


... 29 

Pocock, jun., b Taylor 


1 

Rees, not out 


... 61 

Daubeny, c Richmond, b Bampton 


... 0 

Kelcher, c Sparks ... 


... 15 

Phillips, c Wright, b Richmond ... 


... 14 

Dawson, b Wright ... 


1 

Cotton, b Taylor 


... 32 

Byes, 12 ; leg byes, 2 ; wides, 2 

... 16 

Total 


.. 199 


Iii tlie evening the citizens of Auckland gave a ball 
at the Town Hall in honour of the squadron, which 
will be long remembered, perhaps, by some of the 
Auckland fair, when other squadron memories shall 
have passed away — if we may be allowed to judge by 
the transitory revelations of a lunar ray — and we have 
reason to believe that the impression made by one of 
the “ Barrosa” will be retained by the widowed noir et 
rouge for a considerable time after face and form have 
been driven from memory, to make way for another 
equally favoured. And whilst revelry was going on 
inside, those out might have a few dropping shots, 
accompanied by the sharp crack of the Schneider, 


204 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


which betold of eleven men of the “ Phoebe,” at half- 
past nine at night, taking their own cutter, and, unlike 
Little Billy, going ashore, being used as a target during 
the passage, though without result, as they shortly 
landed, and started for the interior, where we wish 
them all prosperity. By 5 a.m. the last of the dancers 
had disappeared, all making for their respective homes, 
and the squadron leaving terra jirma, certainly for 
months, and perhaps for ever, if we may except a coral 
reef, as the way was long and principally unknown, 
and which was not, was known to be full of coral reefs 
and other pitfalls, eminently dangerous to mariners ; 
also being centre month of the three hurricane ones 
of the year, through the heart of whose head-quarters 
we had to pass, which caused the following order to 
be issued for the furtherance of the preservation of life 
and property : — ■ 


“ Liverpool. At Auckland, 

“ 4th February, 1870. 

“ General Memo. No. 27. 

“ On the passage from New Zealand to Japan, and 
“ whilst between the latitude of 25° S. and the Line, 
“ the following precautions are to be taken : — 

“ 1. The lead is to be kept constantly going. 


AUCKLAND, N.Z. 


205 


“ 2. The ships are to be carefully kept in the track 
“ of their leaders. 

“3. At night tlie lower studdingsails are not to be 
“ set, except to follow the Admiral’s motions, and when 
“ so set, hands are to be kept by tack, and halliards 
“ ready to take it in smartly, in case of having to 
“ brace up. 

“ 4. The watch is to be frequently mustered at 
“ their stations for taking in a lower stunsail and 
“ bracing up. 

“ 5. In case of soundings being struck unexpectedly, 
“ or an indication of shoal water being seen, the ships 
“ are to be brought to the wind immediately, the after - 
“ yards being braced up and the driver hauled out 
“ smartly ; officers of watches are to be warned that 
“ if they only ease away the weather head braces, and 
“ studsail tacks roundly, the yards will generally fly 
“ forward of themselves, but that it is better to bring 
“ the ships to with their head-yards square rather 
“ than lose room by not setting the after-sails. 

“6. They are also to be warned that the safest way 
“ to recede from an unknown shoal is by standing out 
“ as nearly as possible on the line by which they have 
“ come in. Therefore, when running with the wind 
“ on the quarter, it will frequently be safer to put the 
“ helms up and wear, rather than down, unless 


.206 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ breakers are seen right ahead. In that case, the 
“ helm should always be put down, to give a chance 
“ of tacking or anchoring. 

“ 7. If not wore, the ships are to be tacked as soon 
“ as possible, to enable them to get as much as pos- 
“ sible away from the danger. 

“8. If a leader alters course suddenly, each folio w- 
“ ing ship is to do the same immediately, and not to 
“ keep in her wake. 

“9. The movements of leaders are to be closely 
“ watched. 

“ 10. In the day time the masthead look-outs are to 
“ be warned to keep a good look-out for discoloured 
“ water. 

“11. At night in the parts where the islands and 
“ reefs are most dangerous, the ships will probably be 
“ kept in one line, and station is to be strictly pre- 
“ served. 

“12. Signal-guns are to be kept ready, and fired 
“ directly any danger is discovered. 

“13. The first rendezvous after leaving New Zea- 
“ land will be seven miles west from Ocean Islands for 
“ forty-eight hours ; then proceed to the second ren- 
“ dezvous, ten miles south west of Assumption Island 
“ for twenty-four hours. Then proceed to Yokohama, 
“ in the Gulf of Yeddo. 


NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 


207 


“ Should the time named for remaining on the ren- 
“ dezvous expire shortly before sunrise or sunset, ships 
“ should remain on the rendezvous until broad day- 
“ light or until after sunset. 

“ (Signed) G. Phipps Hornby, 

“ Rear-Admiral Commanding. 

“ To the Respective Captains of Her Majesty’s 
Ships and Vessels under my command.” 


NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 

Wednesday, Feb. 9th. — The squadron weighed from 
Auckland, blowing fresh from the North-Eastward, 
right up the harbour, which, necessitated a dead beat 
out, “Liffey” being first aweigh at 1 p.m., and suc- 
cessfully getting outside the harbour, dropped a man 
overboard in the narrowest part of the channel 
between Rangitoto and the mainland, but fortunately 
lowering a boat safely, he was picked up, though the 
ship was unable to heave-to, until she was outside, 
clear of danger; “ Scy 11a ” following next, at 2 p.m., 
beat out safely, and the “ Liverpool,” getting under 
weigh at the same time, tripped her anchor, and 
driving rapidly astern into shoal water, had to let go 


208 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the other one to avoid mishap, and the sailing experi- 
ment having failed, steam was ordered to be got up 
by the remaining four, and at 4 p.m., weighed, and 
found it blowing fresh outside from the North-East- 
ward. Passed Lord Pembroke in his yacht baffling with 
adverse circumstances in the Rangitoto Channel, and 
evidently not liking the appearance of things, wisely 
put his helm up, and ran back for the shelter of 
Auckland. At 6 p.m. the signal was made to ren- 
dezvous about 40 miles off, in lat. 35° 45' S., long. 
175° 30' E., and then to Chase Rendezvous, so away went 
the squadron struggling violently for pride of place, 
which we believe “ Liffey ” gained, although it was 
also claimed by “ Scylla,” the whole congregating, 
with the exception of the latter, at the appointed 
place of meeting by the forenoon of Friday, after a 
dead beat up against North-Easterly breezes and 
thick weather; the “Scylla” putting in an appear- 
ance during the afternoon, was remonstrated with 
for delaying the proceedings of the Flying Squadron, 
after which the signal was made to “Liffey” and 
“ Scylla — “ The way you beat out of Auckland, 
very creditable to Captain and Master.” Then the 
squadron proceeded on its way close hauled, with a 
moderate breeze from N.N.W., cloudy weather, and 
a good deal of rain, which shifted on the 13th to the 


NEW ZEALAND TO JAPAN. 


209 


S.W., bringing clear weather with it, and on the 
afternoon of the 15tli passed close to the west- 
ward of the Esperance Rock, one of the Kermadec 
group, and the following day the wind going round 
by South to North East, sighting Sunday Island 
on the 17th, remained light, tedious, and variable 
until the 21st in lat. 26° 30' S., long. 183° 16' E., 
when light North-Easterly winds sprang up, which 
lasted until the 25th. At midnight of which 
day* the barometer showed 29.92 ; 4 a.m., 

29.80 ; 8 a.m., 29.92 ; noon, 29.95. The weather 
during the forenoon was very threatening, with a 
heavy swell, just such an appearance that we were 
given to understand as attending the advent of hur- 
ricanes in that part of the world. At 4 p.m. the 
weather was again fine, with barometer up to 30.02, 
the shift of wind being gradual from S.W. to W.S.W., 
W.N.W., N.W., where it gradually fell to the force 2, 
on the other points, since midnight, the forces being 
5, 6, 7, 6, 4 respectively, by which circumstances it 
appeared that if we were on the outskirts of a rotary 
storm, our position at noon on the 26tli being lat. 
17° 16' S., long. 183° 28' E., the vortex when the storm 
was first felt must have borne from us S.E., and at 


* We are indebted to Captain Bythesea for the following remarks. 

C C 


210 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


4 p.m. S.W., on its way to the westward, by which 
supposition it is also probable that it passed over the 
Vavau Group and Friendly Islands on its' way to the 
Fijis. On the 27th, lat. 16° S., the “ Phoebe” dropped 
a man overboard, who was saved by Lieutenant R. 
Henderson, and Mr. Beresford, midshipman, jumping 
after him. Afterwards, a light breeze sprang up from 
E.S.E., which was truly welcome, as the heat was 
intense, the thermometer standing at 85° between 
decks. The breeze lasting two days was the only sign 
of S.E. Trade we experienced, and which left us again 
in 12° 30 S. x 180°. 28tli. Passed in sight and to 
the westward of Horn Island, and from the 2nd of 
March in 12° S., 179° E., until the 8th, in 8° S., 
176° E., we experienced a succession of light and 
variable winds, with the weather very hot, damp, and 
depressing, the air between decks being over 80°, and 
the water 84®, in the afternoon of which day, it falling 
a dead calm, without any appearance of wind, either 
in past or future, we began to think 

YVe were tlie first that ever burst upon that silent sea, 

All in a hot and copper sky, 

The bloody sun at noon ; 

Right up above the rasst did stand, 

No bigger than the moon. 

So steam was got up by “ Liverpool,” “ Endymion ” 
and “ Liffey ” towing “ Barrosa,” “ Scylla,” and 


211 

NEW ZEALAND TO JAl'AN. 

fnce, we wended 

“ Plioebe and with assistance of scit/ 

f tne morning of 

our way through a sea of glass untita whcn sai[ ^ 
the 10th, in lat. 5“ 30' S., long. 178°L at 8aan of the 
made to the North-Easterly Trade, 4 esterly Equatorial 
11th entered a strong belt of the ^ ea deoreasing , the 
Current, the temperature of the f m- on the m “ raing 
breeze freshening a Kttle; at 9 a. toW) and proceeded 
of the 12th, cast off the ships in ld a . beam> twQ ^ 
under sail, with a light N.E. wiy ard y J1|( , am q( 
a-half knots current to the wesL ; passed thr , & 
the 15th, in 3° N. lat., 166° E. l/ ature of the sea rising 

violent current-ripple, the tempienoon of the follow- 
from 79i° to 80}° ; and in the | ward of UaIan Island _ 
ing day passed close to the e L p romised Land> J 

eager eyes being turned ^4l we were told that the 
supplies were running short, l d boney . butdt wag q{ 
island was flowing with milk/ gs of Iife were Dear and 
no avail. Though the good A motto> and 
plentiful, forward was still L e 24th, i n l at . 19 ° N 

the North-East Trade untiL before, close to the 
long. 145° E., passing the/ msiol]; one of the north _ 

westward of the Island of L consisting only of an 
ernmost of the Ladrone Ly f rom the sea> 

extinct volcano rising at ward and eastward, where 
perpendicularly, to the n< m together, had had the 
the wind and sea, in col 


212 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


effect, the one u- jawing the lava in its active days 
to the southern t de caused that to be a gentle slope, 
and the other ev foi a stingly warring against the north- 
eastern shoie, h )( j worn tt away until the crater 
almost overhung p. g ^ase. The folio-wing day the 
breeze went rouno to the E . SiE . } an d on the 2 0th 
became unsteady, tp e following day being calm, after 
which the easterly w i nd sprang up again, with very 
damp weather and a dense m i s t round the horizon, 
until April 3rd, in 2go 135 0 ^ w h e n it began to 

veer, and the next da y was south-westerly, with a 
cloudy sky and drizzly turning into heavy rain, the 
wind shifting suddenly. t 0 N.W. on the evening of the 
5th, blowing a modern e ga i e . At 2 a . m . on the 6th 
sighted Kosu Sima (arice<r and outs ide Yeddo Bay), and 
then hauled up for tHie entrance, the wind remaining 


strong, squally, and va iriab fo from W.S.W. to N.W., 
until passing V ries Islt and ( an active volcano then in 
process of getting up ste£> im ^ and getting inside the bay, 
when we ran out of it altogether, the squadron passed 
slowly up with light cat; ts p aws 0 f air, leaving an active 
volcano behind, and having t be extinct one of Fusyama, 
the Japanese God of Mou, sntaillSj on the left, 13,000 feet 
high, snow-topped, rose-cr' L , 0 wned, looking fair and soft 
against the evening sky, t ‘. md wi th the light catspaws 
we managed to get along u £ n t d nearly sunset, when they 


YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 


213 


departed, and at a quarter-past six went ahead under 
steam, anchoring off Yokohama at 7.30 p.m., and it 
may be related, as a remarkable fact, that, although 
when the anchors were let go, the night was black as 
pitch, that the next morning found the squadron in 
better line than they had ever been before or since, 
which was the more fortunate, as the American 
Admiral (Rohan) was laying there, and who expressed 
his extreme approbation and surprise ; and so ended the 
longest (56 days) and by far the most tedious of all 
the tedious passages of the squadron, chiefly so on 
account of the scarcity of wind and the abundance of 
heat, having passed over 3,000 miles of latitude, with 
the thermometer over 80° between decks. 

Thursday, April 7th. — Discovered, at daylight, the 
United States man-of-war, “Delaware” (flagship), 
“ Idaho ” and “ Monacea ” (transport), a French and 
Dutch man-of-war, besides our own ship “ Pearl,” 
who was to become a flyer in the place of “ Barrosa,” 
to be left on the China station, and also found a large 
fleet of merchantmen at anchor, the greater portion of 
which were steamers — a sure indication of the in- 
creasing exportation from Japan, as also of the rising 
commercial prosperity of Yokohama, owing, in a great 
measure, to its central position in the probable great 
future trade between China and the States of America. 


214 


V LYING SQUADRON. 


Ill the afternoon the “ Liverpool ” sainted the Japanese 
flag, liaving been compelled to wait, in order to borrow 
one — a Liberal Administration declining to supply the 
white flag with a red ball, the salute being returned 
from the fort. 

As soon as it was possible, in compliance with the 
exigencies of the service, a large number of officers 
took the opportunity, as Yeddo was then open to 
foreigners, of going up to see that far-famed city, 
where you put up, under the compulsion of indi- 
viduality, at an enormous structure surnamed hotel, 
capable of containing nearly three hundred peojile, 
and usually housing nearly three, which gave it a barn- 
like appearance not tending towards comfort, but 
which the enterprising proprietor endeavoured to 
rectify by providing counteracting luxuries, the advan- 
tage of which the London hotels do not acknowledge, 
with the exception, we believe, of that large edifice 
named after a central terminus, and as now, in the 
year of progression, 1870, foreigners are not allowed 
to walk about the streets of Yeddo without a detach- 
ment of Yacanins in company, the members of which 
small force, not, we believe, exceeding forty, comprise 
a Government guard solely for the protection of 
foreigners, and consist principally of sons of Damios 
and two-sworded men, of a relative position with the 


YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 


215 


sons of our country squires, and as they usually walk 
one on each side, although at times a single individual 
is considered sufficient, it renders much peripatetic 
exercise terribly tedious, especially if you stop to 
inspect the -contents of the shops, which are not nearly 
so good as those at Yokohama, you are immediately 
surrounded by a silent and gaping crowd, anyone of 
whom might easily detach your head, notwithstanding 
the custody of the Yacanins, who, we believe, in spite 
of the author of “ Our New Way Round the World’s ” 
eulogistic comments on them, though he admits 
inexperience, in consequence of the then expulsion of 
foreigners from the capital, are usually celebrated for 
the rapidity of their retreat, in case of emergency, and 
although the majority of British travellers in Japan, 
with the innate stubbornness of their race, decline 
carrying weapons of defence, although the most 
earnest advocates of the Japanese cause, fully admit 
the danger of an occasional evil-disposed person, 
probably employed by a powerful Damio, whose 
gigantic territorial influence entirely shields the 
assassin, in the employ of a religious hater of foreign 
intervention, and as a Japanese is not allowed to 
draw his sword without shedding blood, we must 
entirely espouse the American custom in that country 
of always carrying a revolver, and if you, on meeting 


FLYING SQUADRON. 




21 G 


a man, see him handle his sword, shoot him im- 
mediately, for the preservation of your own life, there 
being no medium between yours and his ; and as a 
one-sworded man carries his weapon on the left side, 
according to European custom, but always with the 
bow of the sword reversed, so that, before drawing, 
he is obliged to turn the sheath round, and then, 
as he draws his sword, severs his victim’s head with 
the same cut. They warn you always to pass a man 
on his sword side, on account of the reason that on 
that side the instantaneous decapitation is avoided by 
impracticable causes. 

And in case of your elevating yourself to the seat of 
a carriage, which of late years has found much favour 
in the country, Yacanins ride after you, instead of 
walking alongside, whereby they have the advantage, 
in case of attack, in being able to take to their ponies’- 
heels instead of their own. And as so many books have 
been written, and in consequence of the increasing 
simplicity of access to the country, will still be, any 
remarks of ours on the town of Yeddo would be super- 
fluous. We only say, that in our cursory visit, we 
found the streets narrow and dirty, and the great 
majority of the houses small in area and one-storied, 
which gives the town that enormous extent which has 
made it so famous in youthful minds, the school- 




YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 217 

geography question, of which is the largest town in 
the world (Yeddo), being ingrafted erroneously on the 
aspiring geographer’s brain ; though the city itself is 
doubtless of vast extent, as you are able to walk 
twelve miles in a straight line without going outside 
the limits ; but even that is not so large as London 
with its suburbs, or Paris, if Prussian artillery has 
not razed the Queen of Cities, as we have just heard 
the news of the fate of the French Empire, in every 
detail of which downfall, the hand of Providence 
appears to be unmistakably imprinted. 

Monday, April 11th. — The Admiral drove to Yeddo, 
stopping at the Legation to lunch with Sir Harry 
Parkes, and then going on to the hotel, having 
in virtue of his high position a large escort of Yaca- 
nins, and accompanied by Mr. Siebold (interpreter to 
our Legation), drove to the Temple of Ausaxa, an 
indifferent Polytechnic, with a very indifferent imita- 
tion of Pepper’s Ghost ; and then round the moats, 
which are considered the proper things to do, the 
latter bearing a strong resemblance to the artificial 
ditches of the same name that surround our garrison 
towns, but which in Yeddo surround the palace and 
grounds appertaining thereto, belonging to the Mikado, 
and which are about three miles round, out of the 
precincts of which the nominal Ruler of Japan is never 


JJ D 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


218 

allowed, except on rare occasions, wlien lie is per- 
mitted to be conveyed in a box, religiously closed, with 
small jalousies on each side, to prevent suffocation, to 
his Summer Palace, about two miles from the other 
one, the streets during the Royal progress being 
cleared, and houses closed, in order to prevent 
plebeian eyes from defiling with their gaze the 
wooden framework which surrounds, in Japanese 
eyes, the scarcely earthly body that dates its ances- 
tral origin many thousands of years before our crea- 
tion, and for which it is placed on the throne of 
Japan, to be used as a puppet by the virtual rulers, 
who are the Court nobles, and the great princes 
of the Empire'; foremost amongst whom, in the 
south, is Satsuma, perhaps the now most powerful 
man in the Empire, who is well known as our adver- 
sary at Kagosima, then a sincere hater of foreign 
invasion, now an equally strong ally in favour of 
foreign intercession and liberal principles for Japan, 
he having sent a student in the squadron, who was 
on board the “ Liverpool,” and another one of the 
Princes of the North sending one also, who was 
housed on board the “ Phoebe.” These great nobles 
having many of them an annual income of between 
one and two millions, and the Tycoon’s revenue, 
when he was virtual ruler of the country, being 


YOKOHAMA, JAPAN. 


219 


three millions sterling annually, and there are still 
many of the country people who would like to 
see Stots Bashi (Shiogoon), or more commonly 
known in England as the Tycoon, still on the 
throne. In the evening there was a great per- 
formance of Japanese juggling at the hotel, to an 
extensive audience of the squadron, everybody we 
fancy preparing to see some extraordinary feats of 
almost supernatural skill ; but a certain elapsed time 
after the commencement, there was a strong suppo- 
sition amongst many, that it was only the inborn 
sleight-of-hand of the race, and that the enterprising 
proprietor was passing the hotel domestics through 
the noble art of jugglery, who would certainly have 
fled as from the Devil, if Wiljaba Frikell, or the 
Wizard of the North, had appeared on the scene. 
The next day, Tuesday, was devoted by many to 
visiting the burial place of the Tycoons, where up 
to quite recently, the guarding priests have made 
you take your boots off on every possible occasion, 
which is inconvenient at least, as the stones are 
decidedly sharp in many places, but more recently 
perfidious dealings have triumphed, and the Anglo- 
Saxon bribery, so successful over the whole earth, 
has now revealed to booted barbarians even 
the interior of a Tycoon’s tomb, and as Yeddo, 


220 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


unlike Rosherville, is not a place to spend many 
long and liappy days, nobody sojourned longer in 
the metropolis of Japan than was possibly necessary 
to explore a certain portion of the town, and also to 
have optical proof of the far-famed native dance ; and 
the Yeddo sojourn with some approached the rapidity 
with which our Western 'cousins do the sights of 
Europe, more especially the southern lakes of Ireland, 
where there is a constant stream of them who arrive 
in the evening, and leave again early next morning, 
perfectly satisfied in having done the Lakes of Kil- 
larney, and in the afternoon the Admiral and many 
officers returned to Yokohama, the Yacanin escort 
accompanying him some ten miles, as far as the Logo 
Ferry, and as on your way down, you were sitting 
behind a pair of fast-trotting Japanese ponies, you 
were somewhat astonished to find yourself passed by 
an almost naked barbarian going his route with a 
long, swinging stride, a pole over his shoulder, with 
a bag at the end, which constituted the Japanese 
postman, bound to go his ten to eleven miles an hour, 
and for the purpose of which high rate of speed to 
keep up for many miles, which they do, they are fired 
with the idea of strengthening their legs, which 
operation is performed by an article resembling a 
croquet mallet ; a small brass or copper tube repre- 


YOKOHAMA, .JAPAN. 


221 


senting the mallet, wliicli is filled with cotton wool, 
soaked in saltpetre, then lit, and held with the flat 
part on the leg until the cotton wool has burned down 
to the skin. The effect we leave to the medical mind 
to determine, but believe it to be for the purpose of 
hardening the skin over the veins ; and as it is the 
bounden duty of every Englishman visiting Yeddo, to 
stop at the place which was shown to us as Black- 
eyed Susan’s tea-house — Susan being, we were told, 
the woman who carried Richardson into her house 
when he was murdered, gave him water to drink, and 
supported his dying head, in spite of the street outside 
being filled with men and women, frantic at the sight 
of foreign blood — the place was largely and religiously 
patronized by the squadron. 

Thursday, April 14th. — It having been arranged 
between the representative of Great Britain and the 
Admiral, that if the Mikado would receive some of the 
officers of the squadron, the ships should be displayed 
off the town of Yeddo, we hope as much to the future 
benefit of our relations with Japan, as it was to the 
discomfort of the squadron, every one having rightly 
expected ten days at Yokohama, made their curio 
arrangements in accordance, whereas seven was the 
allotted portion after fifty-six days of ocean travelling ; 
so accordingly, at twelve o’clock, the squadron weighed 


222 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


under steam for Yeddo, the “ Liverpool ” having the 
Italian Minister and Contesse Latour and Lady Parkes 
on board. Anchored off Yeddo at a little before half- 
past two, between four and five miles from the shore, 
or, as some facetious person remarked, “You could 
“ just see the top of the houses from the masthead.” 
Friday was the day bespoken for the reception of 
the Admiral and captains of the squadron, so, shortly 
after a general rendezvous on board the “Liverpool,” 
the procession of galleys, headed by the Admiral in his 
barge, all in royal clothes and soaking rain, shoved 
off, and made for the land, which small difficulty was 
experienced in making ; but unfortunately that was 

under the bottom, and as the water was exceedingly 

. 

low, and the only chance of seeing His Majesty ap- 
peared to hinge at one time on the probability of his 
taking a cruise to a certain sandbank in his royal 
bay. However, after a good deal of perseverance, not 
much patience, but a good deal of swearing instead, 
and getting into the track of a welcome dhow, a safe 
landing was effected at the steps of the Summer 
Palace, with a pleasant walk up through the palace 
garden ; then, in a state much resembling a somewhat 
damp ploughed field, which was decidedly derogatory 
to the polish of your best boots, which discomfort was 
much alleviated, by the welcome knowledge that in a 


YEDDO, JAPAN. 


22;3 


short time, it would be equally so to the palace mats 
(serve him right, was the idea, for hot keeping his 
paths clean), as, since a distinguished British naval 
qfficer refused to unboot himself at the palace door, 
the officials of the court have never attempted to 
enforce the custom. 

On arriving at the palace, where the officers were 
received by one of the chiefs of the Foreign De- 
partment, tea, pipes, cigars, sherry, etc., were 
abundantly provided, and an inspection made of 
the palace lately occupied by the Duke of Edin- 
burgh, which is built in European fashion, and 
papered in Japanese fashion, the various sports of 
the country being depicted on the walls, the most 
conspicuous of which, occupying one side of a room, 
is the dog chase, a favourite sport of Japan, and 
conducted in a ring, the centre of which a dog is held 
by probably a great functionary of the court, as it is 
a royal pastime, and at a given signal the small 
member of the canine tribe receives a kick from the 
courtly toe of his captor, and is immediately chased by 
the assembled courtiers and great nobles of the empire 
on horseback, with bows and arrows, while the unfor- 
tunate animal is spitted to the earth by a well-directed 
arrow, and we regret that the kaleidoscopic manners 
of Japan prevent our saying with certainty as to 


224 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


whether they turn another unfortunate animal out to 
undergo the pleasure of making a target of itself, or 
whether the decease of one is considered sufficient for 
the allayment of the sporting propensities of the 
Japanese. At half-past twelve, the company having 
assembled, and the necessary preliminaries being gone 
through, the procession started, in four carriages, 
headed by Sir Harry Parkes, the Admiral, Japanese 
Member of the Foreign Department, and Mr. Siebold, 
Interpreter to the Embassy, with the necessary cortege 
of twelve mounted Legation orderlies, two ahead, and 
one' at each wheel, with their swords at “ the carry,” 
prepared for a surprise, which some of them had ex- 
perienced on more than one occasion, the members of 
this force consisting of ex-London police, also a large 
escort of Yacanins before and behind. In the streets 
through which the carriages had to pass, the traffic had 
previously been suspended by order, and the cross 
streets roped and guarded by a detachment of Japanese 
infantry, drawn up at the side of the main thorough- 
fare, and we certainly cannot say that the expression 
depicted in the faces of the bystanders was one 
favourable to foreigners, as it appeared to be 
one more of astonishment to think that their 
capital should ever have been allowed to be invaded 
by the heathens ; and the only audible expression by 


YEDDO, JAPAN. 


225 


tlie savans of the Japanese language was, “ There go 
“ the barbarians; ” and the outside gate of the palace 
was safely reached, without obstruction of any sort, if we 
may except a display of prowess in one of the leading 
orderlies, in turning a corner at too rapid a pace to 
admit his charger retaining its perpendicular, and the 
immediate result of which was, man and horse strug- 
gling out of the mud in a horizontal position ; but we 
are happy to say he speedily regained his position in 
the van, and the sun shining brightly after the April 
shower, enabled the gentleman to clean himself and 
horse before the reception was over ; and on arrival 
at the gate the carriages were obliged to be dispensed 
with, and the journey to the door of the palace-yard 
performed on foot over slightly rough stones, where 
the Minister and Vice-Minister of Foreign Affairs, in 
their robes of State, the former a colour near puce, 
and the latter a brilliant scarlet, were waiting to 
receive the expected guest's, and conduct them to the 
ante-chamber, where tea, tobacco, and an enormous 
box of sweets were immediately provided for each, and 
the various members and nobles of Court introduced, 
while the Italian Minister was presenting his recall to 
His Majesty; immediately after the expiration of which, 
Sir Harry Parkes, Mr. Adams (Secretary of Legation), 
the officers of the squadron, and Mr. Lowder (Her 


E E 


226 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Majesty’s Consul at Yokohama), were conducted by 
the Minister of State for Foreign Affairs into the 
celestial presence of the Great Ruler of Japan, the 
intervening space being filled with doubtless har- 
monious music from the private band of the Mikado ; 
the manufacturing instrument which produced the 
dulcet strains, as well as the airs themselves, being 
something, we should think, never seen or heard 
in the boundary of civilized nations, and forcibly 
impressed on your minds what the princes and 
rulers who lived in the ages of Nebuchadnezzar, with a 
sensitive organization, must have suffered from the 
regal proclamation promulgated with the assistance 
of psaltery, sackbut, and dulcimer ; and on arriving 
at the edge of the dais, in the centre and back- 
ground of which was, not exactly a box, nor exactly 
a canopy, but something, if it is not derogatory to 
majesty to say, more immediately resembling the top 
of that article in which Punch and Judy is displayed 
for the amusement of the young ; gorgeous in white 
and purple satin, closed on three sides and with the 
front drawn about three-quarters of the way up, 
under which sat the Mikado, with face alone hidden, 
the rest being clothed in white and scarlet satin. 
The addresses were read and interpreted, and His 
Majesty, through his interpreter, expressed so much 


YEDPO, JAPAN. 


227 


reliance in the British faith as to intend to trust 
his Ministers on board the “ Liverpool ” the following 
day; but no movement came from inside the box, 
except when the replies were handed to the respon- 
sible Minister, and after the conclusion of the 
ceremony, and the retrogression movement was 
almost concluded, the monarch, who traces his 
pedigree seven thousand years, became struck with a 

1 sense of inquisition, and peered underneath the regu- 
lation screen at the retreating homagers, displaying 
for the instant the face of one hardly out of boy- 

I hood’s years, and then the band struck up a wailful 
sound, which would be inimitable on European in- 
struments, and which a chorus of ten thousand 
London cats could not attain in a lifetime’s tuition. 
After the conclusion of the ceremony a general 
return was made to the Summer Palace, where a 
sumptuous luncheon was provided on European 
principles, and at which the Ministers of the Foreign 
Department presided, after which the Japanese 
students about to commence them maritime career 
were introduced to the Admiral; and shortly after 
five o’clock a hasty retreat was made, in conse- 
quence of approaching darkness, and the many miles 
of turbulent water to be traversed before arriving 
within the precincts of the squadron. 





FLYING SQUADRON. 


2 28 

Saturday being the day on which the Admiral had 
arranged to receive the Japanese Ministers, unfortu- 
nately broke with far from a pleasing aspect, blowing 
very fresh, with strong squalls and decidedly unplea- 
sant sea, which appeared to get worse as the da}^ wore 
on. However, Sir Harry Parkes and Mr. Adams went 
on board the “ Liverpool ” in the forenoon, in order to 
be ready to receive them. Twelve o’clock, one ; two ; 
passed without any sign, and then they were given up, 
and the provisions were on the point of being dis- 
cussed in the Admiral’s cabin, when a steamer was 
seen coming out with the Japanese flag flying ; and 
shortly afterwards, the Ministers and their retainers, to 
the number of somewhat about fifty, arrived on board 
the “Liverpool” in their robes of State, and were 
received by Sir Harry Parkes and the Admiral, etc., 
on the quarter-deck, the foremost in rank being a 
member of the Supreme Council ; of what exactly 
relative rank they hold with regard to Europeans, it is 
difficult to say, especially as the best informed of 
Japan are hardly aware of the extent of their power ; 
but as they have the making and unmaking of the 
Ministers, it is supposed that they follow almost imme- 
diately after royalty ; after whom came the Ministers, 
etc., amongst whom was the Vice-Minister for Foreign 
Affairs (Machida), who we had met the preceding day 


YEDDO, JAPAN. 


229 


at the palace, and who was gifted with the most agree- 
able and pleasing manner that is possible to meet, 
and, after two years spent in London and other of the 
large English towns, was well informed in the progress 
of the Western nations ; and the one sight that struck 
him more than anything else during his European tour, 
being Clapliam Junction. 

Immediately after going on board, they sat down to 
luncheon in the Admiral’s cabin, having previously 
disburdened themselves of their swords, which, as many 
were of great value and sacred fame, it was an agony 
of suspense, notwithstanding the vigil of a marine 
guard over them, for fear that the British midshipman, 
in his thirst after knowledge, might evade the watchful 
sentry, and display the naked weapon to his admiring 
colleagues, and then the result is known only to the 
Japanese ; but we believe that blood must be spilt. 
But whether the drawer or the owner — as the laws of 
the Medes and Persians in Japan are decidedly sin- 
gular — would be the victim, we happily had no oppor- 
tunity of discovering. 1 . One of the great Ministers 
of State was suffering most unpleasant qualms, the 
result of the voyage out, which interfered much 
with his enjoyment, while another of his col- 
leagues suffered, but in a different manner, as he 
suggested, through Mr. Siebold, patting at the 
same time a part of his body that shall be name- 


230 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


less, tliat he had a violent appetite, which, after 
a time, he appeared somewhat to satiate with the 
assistance of constant applications of champagne, 
which undoubtedly is their favourite drink, when they 
can get it. Great was the speculation amongst the 
majority as to what use the knife and fork were to be 
placed, and the novices in European customs carefully 
abstained from the commencement of their repast until 
they had taken a good survey of one of their own 
colleagues better versed in the barbarous use. Some 
few, however, whom the boisterousness of the passage 
off had probably given every reason for an immediate 
wish to satisfy the cravings of their appetite, made 
frantic dashes at mayonaise with firm grip of the 
prongs. And after the luncheon was finished, the 
scimitars were again taken to — an infinite relief to the 
assembled company — and then they were shown the 
ships at general quarters, a number of them ap- 
pearing to take a great interest in the working of 
the guns ; the workers of the guns also taking a great 
interest in one of their spectators, who was one of the 
props of the Empire, and clothed in gorgeous apparel 
of the finest texture, and a marvellously brilliant 
garment, looking like silk embroidery over cloth 
of gold, and the whole forming the covering of the 
chief of the secret police. After the inspection of 
the guns, they were immensely delighted at seeing 


YEDDO, JAPAN. 


231 


tlie boats of the squadron manoeuvring, manned and 
armed, firing rockets and blank cartridge, and a bril- 
liant attack made by the boats in line on an imaginary 
enemy, concluding the display at half-past five ; after 
parting salutations, and many dumb expressions of 
regret, the Rulers of the Japanese Empire returned to 
their native place, under a salute of fifteen guns from 
the “ Liverpool.” At the time when the floating 
entertainment was in course of progress, Lady 
Parkes had been presiding at the British Legation 
over as large a party of officers of the squadron as 
horses could be found to carry and draw ; and after 
a very pleasant ride through the streets of Yeddo, 
a stoppage was made for luncheon in the village of 
Ogee, where the guests were waited on by fair, rouged 
damsels with gilded lips and pretty ways ; and after 
strolling along the bank of a small stream afterwards, 
to watch the Japanese piscator, still armed with his 
scimitar, zealously angling for animals about the size of 
a minnow, the return voyage took place through Yeddo, 
inspecting the temples and tea-gardens on the way, 
and was safely accomplished about six o’clock, with 
no further accident than the subsidence of a mid- 
shipman’s horse into the mud, and the consequent 
prostration into the same matter of a hard-riding 
lieutenant following in too close order. 


232 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Sunday, April 17th. — At 1.50 p.m. weighed from 
Yeddo under steam, anchoring again off Yokohama at 
ten minutes past four, found the French Commodore 
had arrived in the “ Venus ” frigate. 

Monday was spent in leave-taking and curio-buying, 
many remaining long after dusk to knock some more 
than usually stubborn Japanese shopkeeper down in 
his price, for some coveted article, which he invariably 
disposed of at the last minute for about half the 
originally demanded dollars. 

Tuesday, April 19th. — Weighed under sail at 

6.20 a.m., having received the “ Pearl ” into the 

bosom of the flock, leaving “ Barrosa ” behind on 

the China station, with a falling glass and heavy rain, 

blowing a moderate breeze from the northward, which 

freshened to a strong gale on clearing the bay, with a 

short, heavy, confused sea, and very thick weather. 

Next day the wind moderated, and going round to the 

south-eastward, the squadron made sail, and wore to 

the northward, the winds constantly shifting suddenly 

to all points of the compass, with occasional calms and 

heavy rain, which lasted until the 3rd of May, in 46° N., 

170° W. ; hail and snow squalls commenced, when the 

wind again shifted suddenly to the N.W., and once more 

we had our great helpmate round the world, in the shape 

of the brave west w 7 ' this time in the northern 
immens 

f 


japan to Vancouver’s island. 233 

hemisphere, which veering from N.W. to South, but 
chiefly from the southward, and seldom freshening 
beyond a strong breeze, with violent snow squalls. 
They carried us from 118° W. to 128° W., a distance 
of two thousand miles in ten days, which has the effect 
of causing passages where westerly winds are preva- 
lent to be monopolized by sailing vessels, and which 
took us within a day of sighting the Island of Van- 
couver, as on the afternoon of the 12th they dis- 
appeared, and the sky became overcast and hazy, the 
wind shifting to the N.E., and the following morning, 
at daylight, the high land of Vancouver’s was observed 
on the bow. In the evening the squadron stood to 
the southward on a wind, blowing a strong breeze 
with heavy squalls and rain from the eastward. The 
next day we were employed in a hopeless-looking task 
of beating against a south-easter for the Entrance of 
St. Juan de Fuca Straits until 2 p.m., whejn the wind 
shifted to the southward, and we stood irA with a fair 
wind, which fell to almost a calm on gejtting inside, 
with fine, clear weather, which carried jus slowly up 
towards our haven, and now we quote arl extract from 
the log of the “ Liverpool,” to show the J driving power 
that was obliged to be resorted to, in t he chase round 
the world, for the purpose of trying tc,< catch the nine 
days lost in the start: April 29. Blowing a strong 


f p 


234 


- ; ■ - 

PLYING SQUADRON. 

breeze to a moderate gale. 2 p.m. Split maintopmast 
staysail. 8 p.m. Split foretopgallant sail. 8.30 p.m. 
Split foretopsail. 9.30. Split maintopgallant sail. 
10.30. Split maintopsail. 2.30 a. m. Split jib. 4. a.m. 
Split mainsail, tlie ship still going over ten knots, 
under a treble-reefed mizzentop sail, foresail and fore- 
topmast staysail, and what was still more depressing in 
these economical times, the irretrievable loss of 513 
yards of canvas blown away. 

And now it becomes our painful duty to narrate 
the most melancholy accident which occurred during 
the cruise of the squadron — the loss of Mr. Robert 
R. Warren, midshipman of the “ Scylla,” overboard, 
on the 25th of April, in 39° N., 156° E. : the more 
unfortunate on account of its occurring on his 17th 
birthday, and also because he had only shortly before 
left his father and mother at Hobarton. The accident 
occurred while heaving the log at five o’clock in the 
evening, the weight caused by the strain on the line 
overbalancing him ; the ship at the time going over ten 
knots, with a bubbling sea and strong breeze; the 
temperature of the sea and air being 46°, a consider- 
able decrease since the preceding day. The fact of the 
first lieutenant tpf the “ Scylla” being on the bridge at 
the time was a certain guarantee that all that a 
seaman’s skill and human hand could do, was done, 


japan to Vancouver's island. 235 

as the boat was almost instantaneously lowered, and 
at that time the boy was apparently swimming strong, 
and rapidly nearing the buoy, which many eager 
eyes from more than one ship were anxiously watching, 
but it lay in other than earthly hands, and on his 
getting within a few yards of what would have been 
certain life, hope and all the ambitions of youth, the 
hands were seen lifted high in the air, and the 
mother’s darling sank to rise no more from the dark 
and fathomless depths of the cold Northern Ocean 
until the sound of the archangel is heard, and the sea 
gives up her dead : .then, through the infinite mercy of 
his Creator, who had called him, for purposes above 
human comprehension, to the life immortal, and to 
live for ever and ever in the presence of his Mediator 
and Redeemer, Christ Jesus. 

“ The sea, the lone blue sea hath one ; he lies where pearls lie deep. 

He was the loved of all, yet none o’er his lone bed may weep ; 

And parted thus they rest, who played beneath the same green tree, 

Whose voices mingled as they played around one parent knee ; 

- They that with smiles lit up the hall, and cheered with song the hearth. 

Alas for love if thou wert all, and nought beyond, oh earth !” 

When the lapse of time and the many present 
cares of this life shall have somewhat softened the 
anguish of a mother’s heart, it may be some small 
consolation to Mrs. Warren to know that we had 
occasion to go on board the “ Scylla ” two days after- 




236 FLYING SQUADRON. 

wards, and there was one universal gloom over 
officers and men, as though each, individually, had 
lost one dearly loved ; a certain sign amongst the 
men, who, through the constant presence of immediate 
death, are rather prone to think of life too cheaply; of 
the character of the future man if he had been spared 
to be an ornament to his profession : but thy ways 0 
God are not our ways. 

Sunday, May 15th. — The squadron, getting the 
first of the westerly wind, ran into the Straits of St. 
Juan de Fuca, and up to the “ Scylla,” which had been 
detached the previous morning, to provide berths for 
the squadron, and which was what may technically 
be called, hung up, waiting for the wind, which the 
rest of the squadron were bringing up with them, 
and so they all ran up together, “ Scylla” leading, and 
anchored in Esquimalt Harbour in the course of the 
afternoon, where the “Zealous” (flagship of Admiral 
Farquhar), “ Sparrowhawk ” and “ Boxer,” were 
found at anchor, also! the “ Charybdis,” with her bow 
in a self-constituted dry dock — a brilliant piece of 
scientific ingenuity, the work of her first lieutenant 
(Mr. Sargeant.) Shortly after anchoring, the Admiral, 
accompanied by the Commander-in-Chief of the Pacific, 
landed to call on Mr. Musgrave (Governor of British 
Columbia), who, with Miss Musgrave, had driven 



FLYING SQUADRON, ESQUIMALT HARBOR 








ESQUIMALT, VANCOUVER’S ISLAND. 237 

down from Victoria to see the arrival, as well as a 
large number of the people of the town, who, notwith- 
standing the constant arrival and departure of Her 
Majesty’s ships at the head-quarters of the Pacific 
station, had turned out to see the arrival of a 
squadron, somewhat out of the usual routine; and 
though the colony, numerically, is small and very 
poor, the working classes, as a majority, we think are 
loyal to the old country, although there are very few 
who would not rejoice to see British Columbia under 
protection of the United States, in order that the 
great internal resources of the country might be 
opened out by the most progressive people in the 
world ; and that, consequently, the working community 
of the country, through their own labour and foreign 
enterprise, might be enabled to support themselves, 
their wives and families, which under the present 
economical and short-sighted colonial policy they are 
unable to do. 

What the Editor of the British Colonist thought of 
the arrival of the Flying Squadron : — 

“ ARRIVAL OP THE PLYING SQUADRON. 

“ Shortly before noon, on Sunday (15th inst.), the 
“ long-expected Flying Squadron was signalled as in 
“ sight from the Race Rock Light to Admiral Farquhar 


238 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ on board the flagship ‘ Zealous,’ and soon after, six 
“ war ships, with all sail set, hove in sight of the city. 
“ A breeze, sufficiently strong to fill every inch of 
“ canvas, was blowing, and as the vessels rounded the 
“ rocks, the townspeople flocked to adjacent hills and 
“ points to witness the grand, picturesque sight. Off 
“ Albert Head four of the ships were abreast, tall, 
“ stately, and majestic, with the bright rays of the sun 
“ full upon their snow-white sails, and the stiff breeze 
“ bowling them swiftly on towards Esquimalt. The 
“ ‘ Scylla ’ was the first to enter Esquimalt Harbour, 
“ followed by the ‘ Liverpool,’ flagship of Admiral 
“ Hornby. Off the entrance the ‘Liverpool’ saluted, 
“ and the compliment was immediately acknowledged 
“ by H.M.S. ‘ Zealous,’ flagship of Admiral Farquliar, 
“ lying at anchor in the harbour. The remaining 
“ vessels followed one by one, and took up the position 
“ assigned them at the buoys.” During the stay of 
the squadron, the lakes were largely patronized, much 
to the disgust, probably, of the trout in them, the more 
eager starting on occasions, soon after midnight, 
others employing a deputy, at a large reward we 
should hope, to sleep either in a boat or else on the 
bank, regardless of Indians, snakes, etc., in order to 
secure a much-sought-after spot, where the trout were 
supposed to have a preference for Flying Squadron 


ESQUIMALT, VANCOUVER’S ISLAND. 239 

flies. After finishing the refitting, there being a few 
hours of comparative idleness for the British seaman, 
the sheet anchors were pulled about the harbour in 
various attitudes, for the inspection of the midshipmen. 

The 24tli, being the anniversary of Her Majesty’s 
birthday, was a great day at Victoria, commencing 
with a large American river steamer, containing about 
500 people, coming round from Victoria to see the 
fleet fire their 168 guns at noon ; and in the after- 
noon the Victoria Races came off at the town, includ- 
ing a naval flat race of one mile, won by Sub-Lieut. 
Baring (“ Zealous ”) on Deacon, Lieutenant Fitzgerald 
(“Zealous”) only securing a second place, owing to 
having mistaken the winning-post, and we have much 
to regret that, notwithstanding the very superior 
jockeyship of Lieutenant Wood (“ Scylla ”), Cafe au 
Lait was nowhere ; after which there was a naval 
hurdle race over the same course, and six flights of 
hurdles, which was won, owing in a great measure to 
almost professional talent, by Lieutenant Wood, on 
Butcher Boy. The Blue Jacket race came next, and 
was decidedly the most amusing part of the day’s 
programme, one gentleman’s horse leaving the course 
before accomplishing much more than a yard or two> 
and every one of the other combatants, seeing an 
adversary inclined to draw ahead of him, immediately 


240 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


laid hold of something, totally regardless whether it 
was tho horse’s tail or the tail of a shirt, so long as 
he accomplished what he called a tow, which decidedly 
impeded the progress of his friends, and two of them, 
managing to elude the towing process, finished so close 
a race that the stakes were divided ; one of the winners 
being a member of the distinguished corps of Royal 
Marines. In the evening His Excellency the Gover- 
nor gave his birthday ball at Government House, the 
preparations for which nearly caused the destruction 
of that building, one of the chandeliers, in the process 
of being lighted, fulfilling the law of gravity, displaced 
the oil, then in a state of flame, on to the beeswax on 
the floor, when almost instantaneously the flames 
reached the ceiling, but happily were put out without 
further damage than scorching the ceiling and reduc- 
ing a large portion of the floor into charcoal, which, 
acting like a ploughed field to the heavy goers, 
stopped them altogether ; and in consequence of the 
enormous profits made by the limited number of 
vehicles in the town during the day, the drivers of the 
same had retired to bed in a happy state, leaving 
the only mode of performing the distance between the 
hotel in the town and Government House to be 
the hopeless task of walking in tight boots a distance 
of about two miles, on a pitch-dark night, over an 


Esquimaux', Vancouver’s island. 241 

unknown road, to a house which nobody knew the 
whereabouts of ; which unsatisfactory undertaking was 
commenced amid much murmuring and many execra- 
tions at bootmakers, etc.; when, happily, before getting 
out of the town, a dray, ready horsed and without a 
driver, was observed drawn up alongside the pavement, 
and immediately occupied by thirteen gentlemen in 
gold-laced trousers and epaulettes, who on discovering 
some one who had been on the road once before, and 
then in daylight, driven ably and rapidly by the 
Honourable Walter, somewhere in the direction of 
their destination. Happily, it was so dark that the 
yawning ditch on the side of the road was not visible, 
so that a large number of the occupants was unaware 
of their peril, and only frightful groans and agonized 
entreaties to stop, caused by the jolting of the spring- 
less vehicle, then rapidly advancing at a brisk canter, 
having struck a line of returning carriages, to the 
imminent peril of their drivers, who were forced to 
draw into the ditch to avoid being rammed by 
the squadron’s carriage, from the centre of which 
sounds were issuing, which might have been mis- 
taken for an ambulance returning from a bloody 
fight, and for whom descent was impossible, 
owing to an effectual barrier of their comrades, 
and the great rapidity with which their coachman, 


G G 


242 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


impervious to the anathemas showered on his head, 
was approaching for them, a happy release, in the 
form of the door of Government House, where much 
astonishment was caused by the Flying Squadron’s 
carriage ; also, as the coachman was an amateur, and 
on arrival, declined further participation with the 
vehicle, the horse and cart were smuggled away in 
some remote spot to wait the return of the victims, 
wbicli was frustrated by the arrival during the night 
of the owner in a state of rabid excitement, which 
rapidly cooled, on finding himself the object of much 
merriment amongst the domestics, and after having 
succeeded in lining his pocket to his satisfaction, he 
returned, without the slightest thought as to how the 
gentlemen, who had made use of his carriage to get up 
the hill in early night, were to accomplish the descent 
in the early morn without it. 

The next day, Wednesday, 25th, was a great 
day in Esquimalt Harbour, on account of the 
Squadron Regatta, to see which, some two thou- 
sand people came round from Victoria by water, 
besides large numbers by\ road. The day was lovely, 
and the ships being dressed in honour of the birthday 
of the Princess Helena, gave the harbour an extra gay 
appearance. Admiral Farquhar, in virtue of his posi- 
tion as commander-in-chief, entertained a large party 




ESQUIMAU!’, VANCOUVER’S ISLAND. 243 

at lunch, and a dance afterwards, on board the 
“Zealous,” and the various races came off without 
impediment, under the direction of the committee, 
consisting of Captain Hume (chairman) ; Lieutenant 
Fitzgerald, “ Zealous ” (judge) ; Lieutenant Acland, 
“Liverpool” (treasurer); Lieutenant Parker, “Scylla” 
(secretary). In the evening, the “ Boxer ” sailed for 
some remote part of the island, where there was a 
known tree of vast size, which was supposed to be 
required to make a main-yard for the “ Phoebe,” 
she having sprung hers ; and returning on the morn- 
ing of the 27tli, with a portion only of the tree, of vast 
dimensions, weighing thirteen tons, on the receipt of 
which, the squadron prepared for sea. 

“ THE DEPARTURE. 

“ Nearly two weeks ago the Flying Squadron 
“ dropped anchor in our harbour. It will leave early 
“ to-morrow morning. A fortnight is not long, but 
“ in this instance it seems to have sped with amazing 
“ swiftness. But it has been sufficiently long to 
“ endear many of the officers and men of the Flying 
“ Squadron to our people. Certainly a more agreeable 
“ and gentlemanly set of officers could not well be 
“ desired. It would be difficult to pick their superiors 
“ from Her Majesty’s Navy. During their brief stay 


244 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ they have entered with great heartiness and good 
“ nature into every public amusement and philan- 
“ thropic enterprise, and have, at the same time, 
“ exerted themselves to contribute to the amusement 
“ of the public. Two things are matter of regret : the 
“ first is, that they must leave us so soon ; the second 
“ is, that their visit to this colony has been unmarked 
“ by any of those public demonstrations of welcome 
“ and appreciation extended to them in other colonies. 
“ It would be doing this community a very great 
“ wrong to attribute the absence of any such demon- 
“ stration to want of goodwill. It is simply the result 
“ of impecuniosity. The community is small, and 
“ times have been so bad, that it was felt a demon- 
“ stration which would be at all worthy of the occasion 
“ would be beyond the means of the people ; and it 
“ was thought better not to attempt anything of the 
“ kind unless it could be carried out in a way credit- 
“ able to all parties. We beg, therefore, to assure the 
“ officers of the Flying Squadron that there has been 
“ no want of respect or desire on the part of the 
“ people to do honour to the occasion ; but, under 
“ the peculiar circumstances of the case, they must 
“ accept the will for the deed. The general feeling 
“ of regret consequent upon the departure of the 
“ Flying Squadron will be considerably increased 


Vancouver’s island to Honolulu. 24 7/45 

“ by the circumstance of its being accompaniecve'i by 
“ the ‘ Charybdis,’ a ship which has been onffie His 
“ station for some time. Captain Lyons amic^ bis 
“ officers have, during their stay here, formed on a birge 
“ circle of acquaintances, by whom the loss df w ill be 
“ keenly felt. To all we bid adieu -with reg'TT e t, an d 
“ to all we wish a pleasant voyage and pit(/ os P erou s 
“ career.” q 

i 

Eight o’clock on the following morning J ounc ^ He 
squadron steaming out of Esquimalt Har\r our » W1 H 
the “ Charybdis ” in company, she having j Hken the 
place of the “ Scylla,” who was left belling w *th the 
greatest regret, though we dare say the fee 1 ' 111 ^ was n °f 
reciprocated ; nevertheless there was a gr °’ va ^°n on 
her part as the squadron passed out, t/ /e °®cers and 
ship company manning every available 111 He s bip, 
and laying at the entrance of the harbo/ 1 ’ Hssing their 
oars,, and cheering each successive ^ as s ^ ie P ass ed 
on her way, which was returned wi/ ^ llee ’ and one 


more, from the rigging of the pas; 


Ug ship ; and as 


the last of the squadron were rety* n &’ He signal 
went up from the “Scylla’s” £ ^ Happiness 
attend Flying Squadron.!” to ^ ^ le ^Hmiral 
replied, “ Health and happiness at f ^ 0U ’ an ^ Hen 
the “ Scylla’s ” returned to tl; an< ^ 


com- 


FLYTNG SQUADRON. 


24 6 

p ar .itive peace, the squadron steaming down St. 
Juan de Fuca Straits on its ocean career against time. 
At half-past seven, being clear of -the Straits, 
stopped engines, and made sail to the southward, 
close-hauled* with a fresh westerly breeze, which 
gradually hauled round by Northward to N.E'., 
and, on the 5th of June in 36° N. 139° W. it 
became very light. On the 6th, 7th, and 8th, 
light and variable airs and calms were experienced. 
At 1 a.nb of the 9th, we got the N.E. Trade, with 
cloudy weather, and showers of rain, which though 
exceedingly unsteady in force and direction, and 
with occasi ona l strong squalls and showers, it carried 
us on in thb right direction, until the morning of the 
15th, when vhe “ Liffey ” made a signal that she had 
discovered land; and then everybody’s eyes were turned 
to the horizoil in the direction named, but entirely 
without success* until some gentleman, we fancy in 
the act of sneezing* ma de a remark—” By Jove ! there 
it is!” and tow er i n g high above the clouds, almost 
looking down o a you, was the Island of JMowee, then 
60 miles off; add at 6.30 p.m., hauled to the wind 
off the East point of the Island of Oahu to wait for 
daylight. 

Thursday, Jund 16th, 6 a.m.— Bore up Tor the 
anchorage ; and running before a fresh North-Easterly 


HONOLULU. 


247 


breeze, arrived off Honolulu shortly before eleven 
o’clock; when, after the “Liverpool,” “Phoebe,” 
and “ Charybdis ” had anchored, the “ Endymion,” 
running with sails clewed up before a fresh breeze, 
going rapidly through the water, steered with the 
intention of passing close under the “ Liverpool’s ” 
stern, which opening as she got close to, was 
effectually shut in, in some unaccountable manner, by 
the “ Phoebe ” to leeward ; then it was too late to go 
astern of the “ Phoebe ”or a-head of the “ Liverpool,” 
so the only alternative was to make an opening for her- 
self, but luckily, striking the “Charybdis’ ” stern on her 
way, which though much to the devastation of that 
part of the stricken ship, had the salutary effect of 
checking her way, and also allowing her head to pay 
off sufficiently, as only to strike the “Phoebe” in the 
same place, the anchor having also been let go, tended 
to stop the ship, which, without the happy interven- 
tion of the “ Charybdis,” must have struck the 
“ Phoebe ” broadside on, just before her mainmast, 
going about five knots at the time, with a result 
that would have been probably fatal to something ; 
as it was, jibboom, spanker, boats, etc., was the 
only damage ; Captain Bythesea and Captain Lyons 
both having their boats cut in half, the bow of one 
and the stern of the other being saved. It was sug- 


248 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


gested that as neither were of much use by themselves, 
that one should be stuck on to the other, and some 
slight gambling transaction decide as to the possessor 
of the whole. In the afternoon, on having accom- 
plished a loan of bunting, the Hawaiian flag was 
saluted by the “ Liverpool ” with 21 guns, and in the 
evening Major Wodeliouse (the British Commissioner) 
went on board the “ Liverpool ” to call on the Admiral, 
and was saluted with 13 guns on leaving the ship. 

Friday, June 17th. — Great was the demand on 

shore for horses, and great also was the supply, as 

\ 

we hardly saw any unsuccessful men, booted and 
spurred ; the chief, and almost only rides about the 
place being up the Nuaunu Valley to the Pali, a 
magnificent precipice, about six miles from the town, 
from where you got a grand view of the island, or 
along the' shore round the Diamond Head. In the 
forenoon the Admiral, with Major Wodeliouse, landed 
to call on the Ministers, Governor of Oahu (Mr. 
Dominis), and Minister Resident of the United States 
(Mr. Pierce), when the necessary arrangements were 
made for His Majesty receiving the officers of the 
squadron on the following day. 

Saturday, 18th. — His Majesty Kamehameha V. re- 
ceived the Admiral, captains, and staff officers of the 
squadron at the Palace at one o’clock ; a general 



PLYING UQIJ/YDHON, OFF HONOLULU, ,JUNF,, 1870 




HONOLULU. 


249 


rendezvous having been made at the Consulate, from 
where the procession of carriages started, the Admiral 
leading in the royal carriage, driven by an English 
coachman in green-and-gold livery, black velvet jockey 
cap, and drawn by four bays ; when on arriving at the 
door of the palace, the officers were received on the 
steps by Colonel Prendergast (Chamberlain to the 
King), and introduced to Mr. Harris, the Minister of 
Foreign Affairs, who in a short time led the way to the 
throne-room, where the presentation to His Majesty 
took place, in the presence of the officers of the King’s 
bodyguard and the great men of the kingdom ; after 
the conclusion of which, an adjournment to an adjacent 
apartment took place, where ice, champagne, and almost 
every known liquid, were supplied in abundance, and 
became doubly grateful, on account of the exceeding heat 
of the day. After about an hour spent at the palace, 
a general adjournment was made to the very pretty 
cottage of Queen Emma in the Nuaunu Talley, about 
three miles from the town, where Her Majesty, with her 
ladies in waiting, Mrs. Mott Smith and Mrs. Pratt, 
received the officers of the squadron, with that quiet 
dignity and kindly manner which has caused Queen 
Emma to be so fondly remembered in our own country. 
In the afternoon- a large riding party, organized by 
Mrs. Wodehouse and Mrs. Stirling, and ably carried 


H H 


250 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


out by the latter, consisting of the Admiral, captains, 
and many officers of tlie squadron, accompanied by 
many of the young ladies of the island ; who did not 
ride Hawaiian fashion ; including one young lady, who 
condescended to be very gracious ; unfortunately, to 
the father of a family, sailing under false colours, and 
no mean adept in the deception, caused by constant 
practice in the Southern Colonies, and after the coast 
ride round the Diamond Head, and over many miles 
of clinker, a soaking rain commenced, and caused a 
general scurry back to the town, where a sumptuous 
dinner was provided at the Club, Major Wodeliouse, 
the Admiral, and many of the squadron, being the 
guests ; after which the captains of the squadron took 
possession of a palatial residence which they had taken 
for the stay of the squadron, where all the luxuries of 
life were obtainable in abundance, and which was 
christened Pot-pourri House, on account of the mis- 
cellaneousness of its attractions ; the inhabitants of 
which celestial abode were awoke on the following 
morning by the cheerful sound of the colonel’s voice : 
“ Me boys, I’ve brought the doctor to see you;” which 
gentleman, on a rush being made out of bed to make 
his acquaintance, turned out to be a magnificent 
member of the King’s bodyguard, two paces v in 
the rear of his chief, with a soda-water making 


HONOLULU. 


251 


machine under one arm and a bottle of champagne 
under the other, which, considering the circumstances, 
was eminently grateful. 

On Sunday morning a large number of officers 
attended church ashore, where they heard a short and 
very efficient sermon from Mr. Williamson, and in the 
evening a highly eloquent discourse from the Bishop 
of the squadron. 

Monday, June 20tli. — The squadron dressed, and 
fired a royal salute at noon, the fort ashore (Punch- 
bowl) also following suit, in honour of the accession 
of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. At 1 p.m. the King, 
with a large and very brilliant staff, embarked in the 
Admiral’s barge, and proceeded on board the “ Liver- 
pool,” where he was received with a royal salute, the 
Hawaiian standard being hoisted at the main ; and 
we most sincerely regret that the Queen was unable 
to accompany her august relation, owing to the motion 
of the ships, which rendered getting up the side of 
Her Majesty’s vessels a work of considerable risk for 
a lady. The King and staff were entertained by the 
Admiral at lunch, after which the men were exercised 
at General Quarters, and at three o’clock the “ Liver- 
pool” fired a royal salute as His Majesty left the 
ship ; after which, Mrs. Wodehouse had a garden 
party, at which Queen Emma was present, as well 


252 


FLYJNG SQUADRON. 


as tlie elite of Honolulu, the baud of the “ Phoebe ” 
performing the musical part of the entertainment. 
In the evening the Admiral dined the Ministers for 
Foreign Affairs and the Interior (Mr. Harris and Mr. 
Hutchison), the Governor of Oahu, the Minister 
Resident of the United States, Colonel Prendergast, 
and the captains of the squadron. 

Tuesday, 21st. — All the rank and fashion assembled 
in Queen Emma Square during the afternoon to hear 
one of the squadron’s band, as the people of the 
island are, unfortunately, dependent on passing ships 
for their musical entertainments. In the evening 
Major and Mrs. Wodehouse entertained His Majesty, 
Queen Emma, Mrs. Bishop, Mrs. Stirling, Colonel 
Prendergast, and the captains of the squadron at 
dinner. On the King and Queen going away shortly 
after twelve o’clock, the party broke up ; after which 
Pot-pourri House gave a small and late entertain- 
ment, which was fashionably attended. 

Wednesday, 22nd. — The British residents gave 
their picnic to the officers of the squadron, for which 
Her Majesty had graciously lent her cottage in the 
valley, and which was largely attended by the 
squadron and the ladies of Honolulu, a sumptuous 
luncheon being laid on the grass, under cover of a 
tent, just in front of the house, where, directly after 




HONOLULU TO VALPARAISO. 


253 


the company had sat down, the Queen drove up, 
accompanied by Mrs. Wodehouse, and took a pro- 
minent part in the entertainment ; which, after lunch, 
took the form of dancing, croquet, etc., the bands of 
the “ Phoebe ” and “ Endymion ” supplying the music ; 
feminine recreations and much mirth were the order of 
the day until seven o’clock, when a rapidly-deepening 
twilight warned the company that it was time to be off, 
and a hurried leave-taking of many friends, in spite of 
the shortness of the acquaintance, a sharp gallop down 
the valley to the wharf and back again on board, to be 
boxed up on the mighty ocean for another two 
months. Before leaving Honolulu for good, we 

must sincerely thank Queen Emma for her kind, 
though, unfortuuately, unavailing attempts to prolong 
the squadron’s stay, as the vessel bringing the mail 
was then overdue, and momentarily expected ; but 
as it was round the world against time, letters, of 
course, were no object, and “ Forward !” was still the 
cry. To Colonel Prendergast, for his unvarying 
kindnesses to the squadron, in and out of his public 
capacity, they will always be eminently grateful. 

Thursday, June 23rd. — 9.40 a.m. weighed under 
sail, with a fresh breeze from E.N.E. ; and until Oahu 
was out of sight, many covetous glances were cast 
back at the little island, where a week had been so 


254 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


pleasantly spent, enhanced by the multitude of Hawaiian 
charms ; and bore away, with a due south course, to 
avoid being becalmed under the lee of Hawaii, better 
known, perhaps, as Owyhee, and the place where 
Captain Cook was barbarously killed during his ex- 
ploration of the world ; and though not within a 
hundred miles of it, the winds, while passing even 
that distance, were light and baffling, until the large 
area of ocean dominated over by Manua Loa, the great 
mountain of the Sandwich Islands, nearly fourteen 
thousand feet high, was passed ; then the Trade again 
became steady, with an almost due east direction, until 
5 p.m. of the 28tli, when the clouds began to heap up 
in the southern quarter, and the wind became squally 
and variable, with heavy rain, the N.E. Trade taking 
its departure at midnight in 7° 30' N., 155° 20 7 W., 
the wind then veering to the south-westward, with 
lightning and more heavy rain, which lasted over 
a distance of eighty miles, when the clouds cleared 
away, and in 6° O' N. it fell calm for a few hours, 
when a light northerly air sprang up, which again 
fell calm, with heavy rain, until the morning of the 
1st of July, in 5° 55' N. 154° 10" W., when we got 
the S.E. Trade, with a force of 3, and very fine 
weather ; crossing the Equator on the evening of 
Monday, the 4th, on the meridian of 157° 28', W., 






HONOLULU to VALPARAISO. 255 

thermometer 79°, from whence a course was steered 
slightly to the eastward of south, the Trade hanging 
very much to the east, and sometimes going to the 
northward of it, with fresh squalls of wind and 
rain, until 10° S., when it commenced to fall, and 
became steady from the eastward, ending light and 
variable, flying about occasionally to the N.E. until 
the 12th, when it disappeared altogether in 17° 80' S. 
156° 24' W., the wind veering by North to N.W., 
which lasted with fine weather until 2 a.m. of 
the 14th, when the wind shifted suddenly to 
S.S.E., with heavy rain, which lasted twelve hours, 
and then remained south-easterly and light, until the 
18th, in 22° 50' S. 156° W., when it became more 
easterly, gradually veering to the northward and 
falling calm, with a very heavy swell from the south- 
westward ; and in 28° S. the south-easterly winds 
sprang up, gradually veering round to N.E., blowing 
fresh gales, with squalls and overcast weather, averag- 
ing over 240 miles a day for several days. In 37° S. 
146® W., the wind shifting to the westward of north, 
the glass immediately began to fall, and we ran along 
before strong north-westerly breezes, with thick weather 
and a good deal of rain, until getting below 40° S, when 
the weather cleared for a short time ; but soon again 
blowing a moderate gale in squalls, with lightning and 


.256 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


a good deal of rain, occasional Fogs and generally thick 
and unpleasant weather, until the 31st, when the wind 
and glass both fell, and the result of which was foggy 
weather, with heavy dew ; and the next day the wind 
re-commenced his old tricks, blowing hard in squalls, 
with more lightningand rain; running 11 to 13 knots, 
distance run for the preceding twenty-four hours, at 
noon of the 2nd being 278 miles, an average a little 
over eleven and a half knots an hour ; the squadron 
between noon of the- 22nd and noon of the 28th 
running a distance of 1,615 miles, and we again came 
to the conclusion that the brave west winds favour a 
passage against time most uncommonly. On the 2nd of 
August, after a good deal of lightning, the wind went 
round to the S.W., with squalls of wind and rain, also 
an occasional glimpse of blue sky, the wind remaining 
variable about south, until the 5th, in 39° S. 94° W., 
when it went to the N.W., and fell light and variable 
from westward for several days, barometer standing 
as high as 30’47, gradually settling down into a light 
north-westerly wind, which veered about between the 
N.W. and S.W. until the 13th, when arriving within 
seventy miles of the land, the first sail was seen 
since we left Honolulu, after having been fifty-one days 
at sea, and gone over a distance of considerably over 
7,000 miles ; during the forenoon of which, the wind, 


HONOLULU TO VALPARAISO. 


257 


a ten-knot breeze, sprang up from S.S.E., with very 
peculiar weather, which had such an effect on a very 
scientific lieutenant, who had charge of the flag-ship 
during the forenoon, as to cause that officer to insert 
the following letters in that ship’s log : C. G. P. Y. 
M. D., which being interpreted, means cloudy, gloomy 
dark weather, passing showers, visibility of distant 
objects, misty and drizzling rain. At 10.20 observed 
land a-head, which were the peaks of the Andes, and 
almost immediately afterwards, as the weather cleared 
a little, a frigate appeared in view, about four miles 
to the northward, also making for Valparaiso, which 
turned out to be the Austrian frigate “ Donau,” 
which starting from Pola in May of the preceding 
year, also on her way round the world, calling 
at the Cape, China, Japan, Sandwich Islands ; thus 
the two circumnavigating expeditions, after having 
gone over more than forty thousand miles of ocean, 
met at almost the conclusion of their labours, within a 
few miles of the great seaport of Chili ; the weather 
at times being most extraordinary. At one time the 
ship was going eleven knots, though on deck it was 
a dead calm, and the sea was like a lake of quicksilver, 
owing to the currents of air, which were propelling the 
ships, being aloft ; and a great struggle was made to 
save daylight, but without avail, as the breeze fell as 


258 


FLYING S4UADK0N. 


yvg closed the land ; and at half-past five the home- 
ward mail steamer from Valparaiso passed, and was 
asked to report the squadron ; and, at twenty minutes 
past seven, all possibility of saving daylight having 
vanished, the squadron wore, and stood off and on 
during the night, which was not a pleasant perform- 
ance, as it was blowing strong from the southward, 
with anything but a smooth sea. 

Sunday, August 14tli, 5.15 a.m.— Wore and stood 
in for the anchorage; took in second reef of topsail, 
the wind still blowing strong from the southward ; 
but as we got inside the Lighthouse it fell altogether, 
and resolved itself into light airs from various direc- 
tions, which was just sufficient to carry the squadron 
up to their anchorage by about eight o’clock, where 
we found the Austrian frigate had dropped in, and 
taken up the best of billets during the night ; found 
lying there, also, the “ Satellite ” (Captain Edye) 
and “ Fawn ” (Commander Knevitt). After which, 
the “ Liverpool ” exchanged various complimentary 
salutes with Chili, Austria, etc. 

Monday, 15tli. — Squadron dressed, and fired a 
royal salute at noon, in honour of fete day of 
the Emperor of the French ; and the next day 
Rear-Admiral the Baron von Petz re-hoisted his flag 
on board the “ Donau,” and' was saluted by the 
“ Liverpool the Admiral also holding the appoint- 


VALPARAISO. 


259 


ment of Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Pleni- 
potentiary, in the Austrian diplomatic mission round 
the world, and well known as commodore of the line- 
of-battle ship “ Kaiser” at the battle of Lissa, where 
he manifested, for the first time, the destructive power 
of a wooden ship used as a ram against iron. 

Thursday, 10th, being the birthday of H.I. and 
R.M. the Emperor of Austria, the squadron were 
ordered to dress ship, with the Austrian ensign at 
the main, in doing which some difficulty was expe- 
rienced, owing to there being nine ships to be dressed, 
and only three Austrian ensigns to do it with — 
another exposure which had to be gone through, of 
the extreme liberality of the present Administration, 
and which was only put right by the extreme kind- 
ness of Captain Wiplinger, of the “ Donau,” who 
supplied his last ensign for the purpose of dressing a 
British Squadron, and during the afternoon the news 
came up by telegraph from the southward, of war 
between France and Prussia, having been dropped 
by the outward-bound “ Valparaiso ” mail on her 
way up, which caused great excitement throughout 
the squadron, and also on board the Austrian frigate, 
as it was thought extremely likely that Russia, taking 
advantage of the crisis, might make a demonstra- 
tion towards the forbidden ground, which would 
endanger the Austrian Empire to such an extent that, 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


260 

as tliey expressed it, they would have to throw 
away the scabbard again, and spend their last 
penny for the prevention of Russian aggression from 
their Eastern provinces, which event would almost 
endanger the existence of the Empire ; so the news to 
them was of vital importance. In the evening, Baron 
Yon Petz entertained the Admiral at dinner, and fired 
two royal salutes during the entertainment — one at 
sunset, and one when His Majesty’s health was drank, 
which, with one at sunset the evening before — 8 a.m. 
and noon — made a total of five royal salutes for the 
Imperial welfare. 

Friday, 11th. — At 1 p.m. the Pacific Steam Naviga- 
tion Company’s steamer “ Araucauia ” arrived, having 
left Liverpool on the 13th of July with funds rising, 
and Bordeaux on the 15th with war declared, touch- 
ing at Lisbon, Montevideo, and Sandy Point, in the 
Straits of Magellan, making the extraordinary quick 
passage of thirty-seven days from Liverpool, which 
will soon be reduced to nearly thirty, by the fastest 
line of ocean steamers in the world. And in virtue of 
the old adage of an ill wind, the war became a pro- 
vidential relief to the contractor for supplying the 
squadron with coals, as he had been ordered to have 
1,400 tons ready, and had also gone to a large expense 
to prepare for coaling six ships, which, without the 
news, would have been utterly thrown away, as 


VALPARAISO. 


261 


according, we believe, to tlie orders of the L.C.A., the 
squadron were not to use coal for steaming purposes ; 
consequently did not steam — only a very limited 
expenditure for the purposes of cooking, and also for 
the manufacture of the extremely finite supply of 
water ; not a ton of coal would have been taken from 
the contractor, and the individual himself would have 
made another victim. 

On Monday, 22nd, the Admiral entertained the 
Austrian Admiral and staff at dinner, after which 
the Austrian Consul-General (Monsieur Sozat) gave 
a ball. And we hope the stay at Valparaiso had 
a salutary effect on the officers of the squadron, in 
order to prevent them forming too exaggerated an 
idea of the satisfaction which our merchants in the 
colonies and foreign countries had in seeing a British 
Squadron in their waters, which, although founded on 
the many kindnesses and civilities which had pre- 
viously been shown to the squadron over a large part 
of the globe, was, nevertheless, found to be erratic as 
regards the British residents in the Chilian Liverpool, 
and we hope it had the effect of a powerful tonic, as other- 
wise the Flyers might have been too conceited with their 
popularity in the colonies, and we have no doubt that 
in case of war they will be more diplomatic. To Mr. 
Heatley, for his unvarying and constant kindnesses, we 


202 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


cannot be too grateful, more especially on account of 
their singularity. 

A constant stream of officers had been passing 
backwards and forwards between Santiago, Lemarche, 
and the several small towns in the proximity of the 
railway, and on Tuesday, the 23rd, there was a large 
departure of the squadron for Santiago, including the 
Admiral and most of the captains, who took up their 
quarters on arrival at the Hotels Oddo and Anglais, of 
which, after a trial of both, the preference must certainly 
be given to the former, which, under the attentive care 
of its enterprising proprietor, Monsieur Honorat, is all 
that can be desired, in spite of the attraction of the 
Prima Donna at the rival house, and the satisfaction 
of a rehearsal of her future performances during the 
greater part of the night, which is an extremely 
questionable advantage. The places of interest in 
the town were largely visited, including the ground 
where the Church of Compania once stood, the 
burning of which caused such a thrilling feeling — 
firstly of horror at the fearful sacrifice of life, and, 
secondly, of indignation at the dastardly conduct of the 
fanatical priests, who having made good their retreat 
through the vestry door, closed and locked it, as 
they alleged, to prevent the robbery of the church 
plate, by which act of perfidy they were mainly instru- 


VALPARAISO. 


263 


mental in causing the deaths of 2,700 people, and those 
almost entirely women and children, who had rushed 
to the only other outlet, the door of which, un- 
fortunately opening inwards, became impossible to 
open, owing to the crush of the thousands of terror- 
stricken women pressing franticly to the supposed 
opening, and the consequence of which was, the fire 
originating through the ignition of some cotton 
curtains, which, on account of its being the Feast 
of the Immaculate Concepcion, were being used for 
decorating the church, as well as thousands of kerosine 
lamps, the fire burnt through a rope suspended from 
the ceiling, to which were attached some hundreds of 
these lamps, which, falling with a frightful crash on 
the stone floor of the church, caused an instant ex- 
plosion, setting fire to the rest of the drapery, the 
whole church was almost instantaneously enveloped in 
flames ; and then the roof commenced to rain showers 
of molten lead on the unfortunate victims, whose 
agonizing sufferings were happily hid from mortal 
eyes ; and, when an entrance could be effected from 
outside, nothing was left of what a few minutes 
before represented nearly 3,000 people in the act 
of devotion to their God, except a heaped mass of 
charred and burning flesh, which was extricated from 
the debris of the church by means of rakes, and 


264 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


buried in one common tomb in the cemetery at 
Santiago. The sulphur baths of Apoquindo, about 
nine miles from the town, were also largely patronized, 
as well as the opera, where Signorina Marchetti was 
ably performing her part as Prima Donna in Lucia 
di Lammermoor. 

The Santiago days being very hot and the nights 
intensely cold, on account of when the sun sets the 
night air comes off the tops of the snowy Andes, 
which encircle the town, and for which reason, 
after a certain hour in the evening, the streets are 
deserted. 

On "Wednesday, Mr. Thompson, the British Minister, 
dined his colleagues, the Admiral, and as many 
captains as he could find in Santiago, and where, 
also, were the representatives of the two great 
nations, apparently unaware that their respective 
countries were warring almost for existence. 

A couple of days of the Chilian capital were gene- 
rally found to be amply sufficient by. those who had 
not the gift of the Castilian tongue. And Friday 
saw a general return to Valparaiso, in order to be 
ready for any news, which the expected Sunday 
mail might bring ; and the next day the Austrian 
Admiral, contrary to his previous intention, went 
on board the “Liverpool,” to make his farewell to 


H0MEWAJ50UND. 


265 


liis British colleague, so its generally surmised that 
he had been the recipiema private telegram from 
Santiago concerning the aide of Russia. 

Sunday, 28th. — At 6 a.m. the mail steamer 
“ Pacific” hove in sight'd great was the anxiety 
as to what news she migbring, which, of a public 
nature, was not more tliae knew before, but of a 
private one was sufficient cause the signal to be 
made from the “ Liverpo- for the squadron to 
prepare for sea by 5 p.m.Jiich caused a general 
rejoicing — in the first place, < the race was virtually 
over, and also that the moreiguinary ones had an 
erratic idea that they were on • eve of returning to 
their native land as fast as ste and sail could take 
them. Shortly after 2 p.m. t Austrian Admiral 
weighed, and, steaming through the ndron. under 
a perfect ovation of guards, bandand national 
anthems, passed out, ea route for Movi deo, via the 
Magellan Straits ; and between 4.okd. 6.30 the 
squadron were employed trying to wei under sail 
and clear the harbour in almost a calm.iich, as far 
as the “Liverpool” and “Pearl” w concerned, 
was not effected, as they had to get earn up, and 
were not clear of the harbour beforemk, when the 
squadron stood away to the westvd with light 
southerly winds, which lasted u-ntil 3 afternoon of 


K K 


26G FLYING s Q ( g ADB0 N. 

the 30th, when, the wind fall^ n g ver -y light, steam was 
got up at 4 p.ra. for o kne^ an( j ag soon as the 
engines commenced to °P ei qq e , the breeze freshened 
again, and necessitated keeping away to set fore and 
aft sails, in order to allow / 0 f progress at all ; and 
at 10 o clock next morning, 'haying steamed seventy- 
nine miles, and expended 136 tons of coalj sail 

was again made to a light breeze from the S.S.E., 
and in the afternoon v e p asge( j to the north- 
ward of the Island of Jua n Fernandez, that place of 
imperishable fame, as the home for so many years, of 
Alexander Selkirk, better known as Robinson Crusoe ; 

i 

and the next day the yi n d remained light and vari- 
able, between South g At 6 p.m. sighted 

the Island of Masafuer^ anc i on the 2nd of September, 
towards sunset, aie w i n d W ent round to the eastward, 
and, freshening, i as ted from the southward and east- 
ward until the horning of the 5th, the day before 
which, exchanged co | our8 w ^h the barque “Spirit of 
the Morning, hound for Cork. and at 10 a.m. the 
squadron proG ec j e( j on the towing principle — “ Endy- 
“‘mion’ towi ^ “Liverpool,” “Phoebe” “ Liflfey,” 
“Pearl,” “ Satqjte,” the captain’s price on the latter 
vessel for the jo being, we believe, one sheep; and in 
the afternoon ag| n p assec i 0 ur friend “ of the Morn- 
ing, ’ who evideny had gome gor q 0 f idea that men-of- 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


267 


war always steam, as he asked the Admiral to report 
him in England, and after an affirmative answer and 
an exchange of compliments, as, “Wish you a pleasant 
“voyage!” to which the “Liverpool” answered, 
“ Safe home !” and then we parted with our little com- 
rade, and are now in happy ignorance as to his where- 
abouts ; but we should say, probably ahead, so that he 
may have the opportunity of being able to report the 
squadron. At 4 a.m. of the 6th a light breeze sprang 
up from the northward, and barometer beginning to 
fall, 30 ’44 ; and at 4'40 in the afternoon, towing ships, 
cast off, and then made sail to a light breeze from the 
N.N.E., barometer 30 - 42. The next day, wind freshen- 
ing from N.N.W.; barometer, at noon, 30‘25 ; mid- 
night, 30‘05; misty, cloudy weather. The next day, 
8th, the mist turning into a fog. and the wind going 
round to the southward, the glass began to rise until 
midnight, when the wind went round to the northward 
of west, and the glass began again to fall ; midnight, 
next day, blowing a fresh gale in squalls, barometer, 
29'56. On the 10th, strong breezes and moderate gales 
from the southward, which went to the north-westward 
the following day, and blew a strong gale. Daylight 
of the 12tli it was blowing a whole gale. “ Liverpool” 
and “ Endymion ” were close together, “Satellite” 
astern, and the rest of the squadron a-liead, the 


268 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


Admiral, being in the centre, was vainly endeavouring 
to get the “ Satellite ” along, and the vessels a-head 
were rapidly leaving his sight, with a falling glass and 
very thick-looking weather ; especially as the course 
had to be altered, it became a matter of moment, if 
keeping one another’s company was a necessity, to 
communicate with the leading ships, so “ Endymion,” 
hoisting a double-reefed maintopsail, with a topgallant 
sail over it, which almost instantaneously took a 
departure wholesale, for the icy continent of the 
Antarctic land, very soon closed the leading ships, and 
after communicating the desired information, dropped 
back, in order to keep close to the Admiral, which 
worthy act was frustrated by the elements, and per- 
haps a little judicious helm, by the representative of 
the midnight vigil ; in which base attempt at desertion, 
if attempted at all, was not successful, as next morn- 
ing, at daylight, the squadron were spread over the 
ocean, looking for the absent one, who, during the 
forenoon, was discovered in the N.W. quarter, under 
a press of sail, and forced to rejoin the squadron, and 
in the first watch (13th) passed the meridian of the 
Horn, about fifty miles to the southward, blowing a 
moderate to a strong gale from "W.N.W., weather 
B. C. P. Q. L. (blue sky, cloudy, passing showers, 
squally, lightning). At the same time, “ Phoebe ” had 



H M S ENDYMION ROUNDING THE HORN. DRAWN BY HERBERT ROXBY ON H I S LIVERPOOL 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 


269 


her fast racing cutter, which had been built at Sydney, 
washed away, and the next day the wind went to the 
northward and fell light, and we passed through a very 
heavy and peculiar sea, which at times broke from 
trough to crest, as though rolling over a shallow bar. 
On the 15th the wind went to the southward, and 
immediately freshened to a strong gale ; and at noon 
of the 16th, the third largest twentj^-fours’ run during 
the squadron’s career was recorded, 272 miles, and 
the two following days 242 and 262, the wind going to 
westward, and increasing in force ; blowing a whole 
gale on the 18th, with a heavy beam sea, which had 
the effect of carrying the “ Phoebe’s ” second tiller 
away — one having gone the previous night ; so she 
had to lay-to, and was, consequently, missed by the 
squadron ; and the “ Pearl ” likewise disappeared, and 
the next afternoon was discovered ahead ; and the 
only information that was to be gathered about 
“ Phoebe ” was, “ Liffey ” making a signal to the 
Admiral to say — “ ‘ Phoebe ’ dropping at 5 p.m. 
“ yesterday, shifting foretopsail ; ” which was, as it 
appeared to her, though at the time she was seen, 
as they thought, shifting foretopsail, she was an 
unmanageable ship, struggling with a boisterous 
sea. 

On the 20th, being spread over the ocean in 


270 


FLYING SQUADUON. 


search of the wanderer, the “ Lilfey ” descried a 
ship astern, and was told to come to the wind and 
reconnoitre stranger, when she soon reported : — 
“ Strange ship is man-of-war; ” and then, “ Stranger 
“is steering N.N.E. JE., with port stunsails set;” 
and shortly afterwards “ Phoebe ” was seen coming 
up under a cloud of canvas, and, as soon as she 
arrived in signal distance, informed the Admiral 
that both tillers had been carried away during the 
gale, which forced her to lay -to for eleven hours ; 
and though it was only forty hours since she was 
left in difficulties, during which time the rest had 
been running nine and ten knots, she performed the 
same distance in twenty -nine hours, that it took the 
squadron forty to do. 

On the 21st, crossing our previous outward-bound 
track within two or three days of precisely the same 
place one year before, the Admiral made the signal 
to the frigates : ‘ ‘ Accept my thanks and congratu- 
“ lations on having kept company round the world ; 
“ we intend to splice the mainbrace ;” which was 
accordingly done, and general festivities took place, 
in a small way, throughout the squadron, and mutual 
sincere congratulations that the end was fast 
approaching. Until the 26th we had light southerly, 
and easterly winds, when they shifted to the north- 


HOMEWARD ROUND. 


271 


ward, and it becoming almost calm, steam was got 
up at four o’clock in the afternoon by the “ Endy- 
mion,” “ Phoebe,” and “ Pearl,” when the towing 
process went on again ; and during the afternoon 
“ Satellite ” discovered that her rudder-head had been 
badly sprung in the gale, and that it would have to be 
unshipped to repair. The next morning, at 7.30, cast 
off, and made sail to a light northerly wind, and on 
the morning of the 29th, on arriving in the high road 
of outward-bounders, a ship was seen on the weather 
bow, passing on her outward-bound career, when 
immediately the “ Liffey ” was sent to chase, followed 
by the rest of the squadron ; and as soon as the 
captain of the outward-bounder found himself chased 
by six ships, he surrendered at discretion, hauled his 
mainsail up, and hove-to, turning out to be the 
“ Melbourne,” forty-five days out, bound for the port 
of the same name, so fondly remembered. So he 
was boarded for news by “ Liffey,” the weather-line 
passing close under his stern, with bands playing 
“ The girl we left behind,” etc., in the faint hope that 
the captain of her might enhance the merits of the 
special musical appropriation, on his arrival at the 
favourite city ; and the mere mention of which name ; 
even then, caused a flush, either of pleasure or pain, 
to many. The “ Liverpool,” as she passed under 


272 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the stern, hailed her, in order to thank the captain 
for heaving-to, which old gentleman, being appa- 
rently a little deaf, was some little time before his 
mind grasped it as a compliment, when, being a 
man of action, he immediately turned the hands up, 
and gave three cheers ; the “ LifFey’s ” cutter having 
gone for news, and after the pilfering of everything 
in the shape of a paper that could be laid hands on, 
she returned to her ship, who then made sail after 
the squadron, and on arriving within signal distance, 
imparted the exciting information : — Latest date, 
August 13th, “ Liverpool.” France and Prussia only 
engaged. England ready, but has not sent troops to 
Belgium. Two great battles on the Rhine, up to 
August 8th. Prussians victorious ; 4,000 prisoners, 
and 30 guns. Loss of French army, up to August 
12th 18,000. French blockading Baltic. England had 
declined to join Austria -Italian League for the restora- 
tion of peace. Emperor in bad health ; position very 
insecure. Lost the Trade in 17° S. “ Cambria ” won 
the yacht race. The receipt of which caused the sup- 
porters of the rival countries to undergo a sensation 
of joy and sorrow, with a general feeling of wonder 
to think that the legions of La Belle France had really 
been worsted, and that the Fates had apparently 
ordained that the career of the acknowledged leader 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


273 


of Europe for nearly twenty years, was rapidly draw- 

I 

iug to a close. Shortly after noon, a large clipper- 
ship was seen passing rapidly on her way ; and 
as she went by, made the signal : — “ ‘ Arichat,’ 
“ thirty-six days out from London to Shanghai,” 
which, being nine days later, the “ Liffey ” again 
proceeded on what looked a hopeless chase, as the 
“ Arichat,” then several miles on her way, made 
the signal “ Wish you a pleasant voyage,” to 
which the Admiral replied : — “ I wish to speak with 
“ you,” which was quite another affair. However, she 
very civilly stopped, and we began to think that the 
British ocean carriers of merchandize were vastly 
improved in their exchange of civilities, and infinitely 
superior to our transatlantic contemporaries, whose 
gaucheness on the high seas is proverbial ; and until 
the return of the chaser the squadron hove-to, and 
as the “Liffey” came up, she made the signal: — 
“No change in our position. French have retreated 
“ from Metz — have quitted Moselle River,” and the 
newspapers which she brought were dispersed round, 
and at four o’clock, we again stood on our course ; 
the following day (30th), in 22° S., we got the 
S.E. Trade, and in the afternoon, “ Liffey ” was sent 
on into Bahia to get the stock, etc., ready, so she 
made all sail, and was soon well a-head ; early on 

D L 




274 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the following Sunday, “ Endymion ” dropped a boy 
overboard, who was saved by Mr. Lewis T. Jones, sub- 
lieutenant, jumping after him from the fore-bridge, 
much to that gentleman’s credit, and the advantage 
of the boy, as swimming was not one of his accom- 
plishments, and as we hauled in towards land, the 
wind gradually went to the eastward, and within two 
hundred miles of the coast was blowing fresh from 
the north-eastward. 

At 11 a.m., on Thursday, October 6th, observed 
the land of Brazil a-head, and on closing the anchor- 
age, “ Liffey ” telegraphed to the Admiral : — ■ 
“Emperor capitulated, with army. France, Republic.” 
And thus ended the first act of the great war. With 
what future influence on our country, time alone must 
show ; but we confidently say — “ Thank goodness for 
“ the ditch !” and between five and six o’clock, the 
squadron anchored, “ Liverpool” exchanging the cus- 
tomary salute with the country, and the Brazilian 
Commodore, in the “ Bahiana soon after anchoring, 
there was a rumour, almost too terrible for credence, 
and, like other rumours of great calamities, apparently 
before any possible means of arrival : the loss of H.M.S. 
“ Captain.” In the evening there was the most ter- 
rible storm of thunder and forked lio-htning almost 
ever known at Bahia, as, for about three hours, the 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


275 


night was turned into an almost perpetual blaze of 
fire. 

Friday, October 7th. — We must quote the log of the 
“ Liverpool ” to recount a tragedy that happened on 
board that ship, and which, once seen, sufficeth a life- 
time : — 4.5. a.m., departed this life, Mayeda, Naval 
Cadet, Japanese student, having at 3.45 a.m. com- 
mitted suicide in the Japanese fashion. When he 
joined the ship he was full of life and fun, and com- 
menced rapidly to pick up the English language, which 
he was incessantly working at, when suddenly the course 
of progress appeared to stop, and for the two or three 
previous months a constant depression appeared to 
hang over him, his fellow-countryman in the “ Phoebe” 
having tried to rally him, but without avail. Some 
days before he destroyed himself, his messmates became 
rather afraid of an impending catastrophe, more espe- 
cially as he had taken his knife (a weapon about 
eighteen inches long) out and cleaned it, and nobody 
knew what the Japanese custom was, as regards their 
code of honour in despatching a foreigner or two first, 
and a general feeling of insecurity was experienced in 
the ward-room ; on the eventful night the naval in- 
structor, going into the ward-room shortly after twelve 
o’clock, found the Japanese sitting there, and told him 
to go to bed, to which he got a negative answer, until 


276 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


lie was told that he must ; when he turned into 
his hammock on the maindeck, and the naval in- 
structor gave the sentry at the ward-room door orders 
to keep an eye on Mr. Mayeda if he came down during 
the night ; so the midshipman of the middle watch, 
between three and half-past, coming out of the ward- 
roofn door, met the Japanese going in, and asked him 
why he did not turn in, to which he got no answer, 
and proceeded on his way until the sentry outside the 
door informed him that he had orders not to allow Mr. 
Mayeda in the ward-room ; so he turned back, and, 
accompanied by the sentry, went into the after-part of 
the ward-room with a lantern, where they found him 
standing alongside his portmanteau, and were in the 
act of trying to persuade him to turn in, when, in the 
twinkling of an eye, he snatched up his knife, which 
must have been lying on the top of the portmanteau, 
and plunged it into his stomach with sufficient force 
to strike the spine ; and such was the effect of horror 
on the midshipman and sentry, that with one accord 
they turned and fled with so great precipitation, that 
it has never been satisfactorily decided whether the 
door or window was the portal of egress. The sentry 
on the main-deck, thinking the midshipman was mad, 
tried to catch him, but in vain ; and sufficient reason 
was just left, to allow him to reach the officer of the 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


277 


watch, and convey to him the impression that some 
direful tragedy was being enacted in the ward-room, 
who immediately rushed down, and found the Japanese 
insensible and lying over his portmanteau, with two 
stabs in the throat, for which he was immediately 
attended by the doctors ; and it was not for some 
minutes, and then quite by accident, that it was 
discovered he had disembowelled himself ; and, after 
asking, in Japanese, for a glass of water, which caused 
him to writhe in agony, he died without a struggle, 
and was buried in the Protestant Cemetery by Mr. 
Caley, the English Chaplain, for whose kindness we are 
eminently grateful. In the afternoon the “ Satellite” 
got her rudder back from the dockyard, where it had 
been repaired, and then the squadron prepared for a 
daylight start ; a steamer arrived during the night, 
which was discovered to be British by the familiar 
sound of “ Steady, starboard,” and was boarded by 
the officer of the guard, who brought the confirma- 
tion of the news of the frightful disaster in Biscay’s 
Bay, which paralyzed every one with horror as he 
thought of relations, friends, and old messmates 
hurried in a moment from life and hope into the 
incomprehensibility of eternity, engulphed in the 
fury of a Southern gale. 


278 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


“ What can they say in England, when electric spark has told 

Of breaking day off Spain’s great cape, disclosing night’s unutterable 
woe ? 

Five hundred turned to lifeless clay, proud in their ocean majesty the 
eve before, 

With nought but their Creator’s eyes and floating spars to tell 

Of that night’s agony, inconceivable — endured in jaws of hell, 

Baffling in death’s struggle with the mighty waves ; and then despairing 
wail, 

Which told of other human beings engulphed in ocean, lashed to fury by 
a Southern gale ; 

What can they say in England, save ‘ God’s holy will be done !’ ” 

The next morning, Sunday, October 9th, after 
having visited sixteen places, made the ninth repeti- 
tion of the squadron either anchoring or weigh- 
ing on the Sabbath. A little after 9 a.m. 
weighed under steam, and proceeded to the east- 
ward to make an offing of the land, until the 
following forenoon, when sail was made to a light 
breeze from the E.S.E., which made it extremely 
doubtful as to whether the squadron would be able 
to weather the South American continent, which 
feat, looking very poorly on the afternoon of the 
12th, with the land near Pernambuco nearly a-head, 
was safely accomplished, chiefly- owing to the friendly 
assistance rendered by the wind drawing to the south- 
ward; and, as soon as the land was cleared, the S.E. 
Trade reappeared, and carried us, on the 16th, in 
sight, ten miles to the westward of St. Paul Rocks ; 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


279 


and the same evening, just before dark, a barque was 
reported from the masthead ; and, half-an-hour after- 
wards, a steamer was seen close a-head, which caused 
considerable excitement for news, as, for several days, 
the squadron had been spread, on the chance of inter- 
cepting the outward-bound Pacific mail, whose track 
we were known to be on. Guns were fired, blue 
lights burnt, boats lowered, and all possible manifes- 
tations made, in order to convey to the captain of the 
said steamer the strong wish of the squadron to detain 
his vessel, which did not appear probable at first; 
but turned out that the said gentleman, not putting 
too much faith in Her Majesty’s war vessel, and with 
a strong idea that he had fallen into the meshes of 
the Flying Squadron, declined stopping with the bow- 
lights of six rampant ships in front of him ; and it 
was not until he obtained a good view of the six 
stern lights that he considered himself safe, and then 
must have imagined himself about to be made a prize, 
by the number of boats making violently towards him, 
when he was discovered to be the much-sought-after 
Pacific steamer “ Valdivia,” Captain Sivell, who, 
probably, highly disapproving of being detained, 
certainly did not show it, and was particularly kind 
in distributing his papers amongst the various ships, 
by means of which the news of the fall of Strasbourg 
and Toul was received ; also the evidence of the 


280 


FITTING SQUADRON. 


survivors of the ill-fated “ Captain,” telling of the 
heroic death that closed the gallant career of Captain 
Burgoyne — a glory to his country, and an honour 
to the world. 

On the 17th lost the S.E. Trade, in 3° 50' N. 
29-00 W., and had light and variable winds from the 
southward, with lightning and torrents of rain. On 
the morning of the 19th, it falling almost calm, steam 
was got up for five knots by “ Liverpool,” “ Liffey,” 
and “ Satellite,” to tow the other three through 
light and variable winds and a continuous downfall 
of water, which lasted until the morning of the 21st, 
when a strong S.W. Monsoon sprang up, and the 
ships cast off ; and shortly after noon, as the leading- 
ship of the weather-line was thundering up to a 
small and very smart little brig that was running the 
same way, when, just as he was expecting to be 
shaved by the monster running under a press of sail, 
a sudden and very heavy squall struck the squadron, 
carrying away stunsails and royals, and making short 
work of the last of the canvas ; and how our little 
friend must have chuckled as he shook the wind out 
of his sails and lowered the topsails, without splitting 
a yarn; and one ship’s lower stunsail must, we think, 
have gone on board him, where it will, probably, be 
used for a new suit of sails. In the evening we got 
the N.E. Trade, in 12° 30' N. 28° 40' W. ; and the next 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


281 


day it went round to the eastward, and sometimes 
to the southward of east, with occasional heavy 
squalls, lightning, and a good deal of rain ; weather 
very hot and oppressive; air 79°, and water 80°, 
which, considering we were on the' verge of getting 
out of the Northern Tropic, and the sun was rapidly 
closing his apex in the Southern one, it was consi- 
dered a tolerably good temperature ; and, on the 
26th, in 23° N., every vestige of a Trade had dis- 
appeared, and the wind gone round to the south- 
eastward, with much lightning; and the same night 
it became very variable, veering between E.S.E. and 
South, with a great deal of rain, thunder, and light- 
ning, gradually settling into fine weather and a light 
south-easterly breeze, which lasted until the next 
night only, when more lightning and heavy rain 
made their appearance ; and the following morning 
(28th), at 3 a. m., the wind shifted suddenly to the 
northward and then back to ligyit southerly winds, 
with damp oppressive air and he~' ' 'nin squalls, until 

Suddenly to the 


the night of the 31st, when it \ aC ^ n ‘ 


westward, causing much anxiety eV °^l inconvenience 
to those in authority, with light nin .nd heavy squalls 
of wind and rain, and then back again to S.W., when 
it became almost a calm until the following day (Nov. 
1st), when a light breeze again sprang up from the 


M M 


282 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


N.E., and the heavy, oppressive atmosphere imme- 
diately disappeared ; on the morning of the 3rd, 
the breeze again failing, three of the squadron 
had to light their fires, revolve their screws, 
and tow the remainder along towards the much- 
wished-for .haven, until the next morning, when 
a light breeze appeared from the northward, and 
fires were let out, and screws hoisted, we hoped 
and trusted, for the last time, though it appeared 
questionable, the wind performing strange evolutions, 
going rapidly to the southward, then flying back to 
north, blowing half a gale in squalls, and then, as if 
its anger had died out, falling calm, with a great 
deal of lightning, and weeping bitterly, after which it 
sprang up again from the S.W., with thunder, light- 
ning, and heavy rain, and a rapidly falling glass, when 
it again fell calm, and the bounds of human endurance 
were found to hare a limit, sinister glances being 
directed towards inspected Jonahs, the gentleman 
under surveillan^^a: fancy, usually being the parson ; 
but happily for ft of spected gentleman, a breeze was 
seen coming dov' chuom the northward, and the glass 
rising rapidly, .pwaalf-past ten, on the night of the 
9th, the wind bEmg to the eastward of north, the 
squadron wore ; and when the inhabitants of the six 
vessels, who, the moment before, were congratulating 


HOMEWARD BOUND. 


283 


themselves on the near approach of their native land, 
found themselves progressing at the rate of six or 
seven knots in precisely the opposite direction, groans, 
sighs, imprecations of all sorts were distinctly audible, 
and when it settled into a north-easterly gale, it 
became exceedingly dangerous to exchange com- 
pliments with your hitherto well-tried friend, for fear 
of being consigned to a supposed peculiarly warm 
atmosphere. 

At 3.15, on the morning of the 11th, having 
arrived sufficiently close to the American continent, 
the squadron again wore and stood in the direction 
of their native land, and on the following day, were 
bowling along eleven and twelve knots, with light 
hearts and great joy, that the end was, humanly 
speaking, so close. Fresh gales, furthering the pro- 
gress of the squadron, which at one time showed a 
decided inclination of again going to the eastward, 
and anxious eyes were glued to refractory vanes, 
which, at one time, pointed to N.N.E., and then, as 
though content with previously administered agony, 
slowly, and almost unwillingly, revolved back towards 
N.W., and then the fact became apparent that the 
West Country lassies had at last got hold of the 
tow-rope, with no intention of letting it go again ; 
and in such a hurry were they, that at 2 a.m. of 


284 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


the morning of Sunday, the 13th, a very heavy 
squall struck the squadron, which had the effect 
of putting the upper deck of one frigate under 
water, and causing the dwellers therein for some 
moments, to fear that she was either going to 
remain in that position, or else complete the revolu- 
tion; but, happily, being constructed of wood, and 
with a low centre of gravity, she slowly righted, to 
the intense relief of those on board, and at daylight 
the following morning, one of the flock being dis- 
covered many miles astern, “ Liffey ” informed the 
Admiral that “ Phoebe ” had lost her foreyard ; also 
during the squall ; and accordingly the squadron had 
to accommodate their pace to the cripple until Monday 
morning at seven o’clock, when the yard reappeared 
in its proper place, and away we went with a fresh 
north-westerly breeze until the cry of “ Land on the 
weather bow, sir !” caused hearts to jump for joy, and 
a general rushing up many ladders, for those weary of 
the monotonous horizon, to feast their eyes on the 
rugged cliffs of Cornwall’s coast, and be thankful to 
the Griver of All Things for a safe return to the land 
they love so well, and reap the reward of their labours, 
in having accomplished the feat of passing over 53,000 
miles of ocean in 381 sea days out of 514, since they 
were in the same latitude and longitude ; the sole 


PLYMOUTH SOUND. 


285 


difference being outward bound ; visiting sixteen places, 
with an average stoppage of eight days in each, 
making a total of nearly thirteen months at sea (on 
sixty-tliree days of which it blew a gale) out of nearly 
seventeen months since leaving the old country. And 
passing the bull’s-eyes of the Lizard in the first 
watch, the squadron hauled to the wind, and stood 
off and on between the Eddy stone and the land until 
daylight, shortly before which the signal was made to 
reef mainsails, bend sheet cables, and get up steam 
full speed. And when the day broke, the squadron 
stood in towards Plymouth, and the sun rose on one 
of the loveliest days of which our country can boast 
when they are fine, and in the forenoon of which the 
whole were safely anchored in Plymouth Sound. And 
thus, practically, ended the cruise of the Flying 
Squadron of 1869, the grand finale being a dinner in 
Willis’s Rooms on December 3rd, where forty-four of 
the officers, with the Admiral as President, met once 
more at a convivial gathering, and then parted, 
probably for ever, as colleagues in a circumnavigating 
expedition. 


Deserters from the Flying Squadron. 


286 


FLYING SQUADRON, 


Remarks. 

Five apprehended after departure 
of Squadron. 

In addition, 4 apprehended by 
Barrosa, and 4 sent round to 
Sydney by Melbourne police, 
also 8 apprehended since. On 
leaving Melbourne — 158. 

Total. 

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Place. 

Madeira 

Bahia 

Rio de Janiero 

Monte Video 

Cape of Good Hope ... 

Melbourne 

Sydney 

Hobart Town 

Lyttleton 

Wellington 

Auckland 

Yokohama 

Vancouver’s Island ... 

Honolulu 

V alparaiso 

Bahia 


Flying Squadron — 1869 - 70 . 


PLYING SQUADRON, 


287 


I 

| 

Close hauled, force 2. 
Close hauled, force 3. 
Quarter, force 3. 

Close hauled, force 5 to 6. 

Close hauled, force 3. 
Close hauled, force 2. 
Close hauled, force 3. 
Close hauled, force 2. 
Calm, head round compass 
Abeam, force 1 to 2. 

Average. 

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Flying Squadron — 1869 - 70 . 


288 


FLYING SQUADRON. 


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FLYING SQUADRON, 


289 




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290 


PLYING SQUADRON. 


SPARS CARRIED AWAY. 


Ship. 

l 

a 

a 

3 

S 

aS 

bo 

Pi 

O 

H 

Lower yards and 
topsail yards. 

Upper yards. 

Lower booms. 

StuddiDg sail 
booms. 

Small spars. 

Jib-boom. 

Total. 

Liverpool 

3 

1 





Top. 

5 

T-gal. 

2 

7 


18 

Phoebe 

6 

1 

2 

1 

5 

2 

2 

- 

19 

Endymion 

1 

- 

1 

- 

4 

I 

7 

1 

15 

Lifley 

3 

— 

1 

1 

4 

3 

8 

1 

21 


NUMBER OP MEN DIED, FALLEN OVERBOARD, 
FALLING ALOFT, INVALIDED, AND LEFT IN 


KILLED FROM 
HOSPITAL. 


Ships. 

Number of men 
died from 
disease, etc. 

Number of men 
fallen overboard. 

Number of 
men killed 
from fall- 
ing from 
aloft. 

Number of men 
invalided or left 
in hospital. 

Total. 

Number 
died of 
Consump- 
tion. 

Total. 

Number 

saved. 

Total. 

Number 
of those 
Consump- 
tion. 

Liverpool 

2 

2 

3 

0 

0 

7 

0 

Phoebe ... 

2 

2 

4 

2 

1 

8 

3 

Endymion 

4 

1 

5 

5 

0 

11 

2 

LiSey ... 

4 

3* 

4 

3 

3 

10 

6 

Total ... 

12 

8 

16 

10 

% 

4 

36 

11 


Inflammation of luDgs.